Acclaimed AJ's Pit Bar-B-Q Reopening as New Barbecue Joint

"I know I'm gonna come out on the better end of all this — maybe I'll open my own place.” That’s what Patrick Klaiber, general manager and pitmaster at AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q, told Westword after the Michelin-recognized smokehouse abruptly closed on February 28.

Just three months later, Klaiber now finds himself co-owner of the beloved barbecue spot at 2180 South Delaware Street with Manny Barella and Caleb Benton.

“The building was seized by the Colorado Department of Revenue for failure to pay taxes, and all this stuff in here went to public auction,” Klaiber recalls. “Manny [Barella] had called me and said, ‘Hey, we're going to bid on this stuff and we want you to be partners in the new restaurant.’ I said yes right away, didn't have to think twice about it.”

Dream Team

The team officially won the auction for the space on April 14, and will be reopening on June 5 as Riot BBQ. The new moniker is a nod to an infamous 1898 barbecue held in Park Hill that devolved into chaos when 30,000 hungry attendees overwhelmed the food line.

Though Riot BBQ is launching fast, the relationships behind it go back more than two years.

“When I heard AJ’s was closing, I called to check in [on Patrick], like, ‘Are you okay? Spill the tea, what happened?’” says Barella, a Top Chef alum and James Beard nominee. “Honestly, if I hadn’t made that call to check on him, I wouldn’t have known about the auction. It was total serendipity.”

The friendship between Barella and Klaiber began after Barella decided he wanted to learn how to barbecue from the best.

“Aaron from Plates by the Pound…introduced me to Patrick through a text message. I asked if he could teach me and he said, ‘We're not hiring now,’” Barella says with a laugh. “And I was like, ‘I'll do it for free.’”

“Then I said, ‘Oh, yeah, sure, come on in,;” Klaiber adds.

Barella and Benton have also been longtime collaborators, first meeting through the Hispanic Restaurant Association.
In addition to having the former AJ’s pitmaster on board, the new ownership reached out to every onetime AJ’s employee, and about 75 percent are returning to work under the new banner. “They are very excited to be back in the space because they love working here. Now, we just have an opportunity to treat them better,” Barella shares.

Texas Technique, Mexican Soul

“This isn’t Tex-Mex. It’s Texas-style barbecue with Mexican flavors,” Barella emphasizes.

The counter-service spot will serve classic, central Texas-style barbecue (housemade sauce on the side) on quarter sheet trays lined with paper. The menu will feature eight to ten proteins at any given time, all smoked over local red and white oak.

“We’re not drowning anything in sauce,” Klaiber notes. “If it’s smoked right, the meat should speak for itself.”

“We’re using prime beef for the brisket and wagyu for the pastrami, along with high-quality chicken and pork,” Benton adds. “Our goal is to strike a strong balance between value and quality; we’re not cutting corners with lower-grade meats from Restaurant Depot.” According to the team, prices will remain similar to those at AJ’s.

While classics like pulled pork and brisket — king of Texas barbecue — will be on the menu, Barella has also infused his Mexican heritage into the offerings with items like al pastor-marinated ribs, pibil-style chicken, and chorizo and manchego sausages.

“I feel it’s my responsibility as a Mexican chef to honor my culture and bring real Mexican food to Denver,” Barella says. “People are very open right now to what real Mexican food is. There’s no better time to lean even more into it.”

The sides will be just as bold, with salsa macha slaw, smoked ham salad, esquites cornbread (topped with charred corn kernels, crema and cotija), Mexican rice and escabeche (cauliflower, carrots, and onions in a tangy brine) — all served alongside classics like Klaiber’s fan-favorite baked beans, mac and cheese, and potato salad.

To wash it all down, guests can visit the self-serve craft beer wall with fifteen taps showcasing local Colorado brews. Diners will be handed a cup and can pour their own beer, operating on an honor system. There will also be batch cocktails, nonalcoholic drinks like lemonade and sweet tea, and desserts such as dulce de leche carlota.

Turning AJ’s into Riot didn’t require a total gut renovation, just some TLC. The no-frills roadhouse vibe remains, but the place has had a deep clean and a new paint job, bathrooms have been refreshed, and there are new tables and benches on the patio. The bar has also been removed to open up the dining room and add more seating.

”This isn't AJ's 2.0. This is a new concept,” Klaiber emphasizes. “What happened with AJ's sucked, but we're ready to move forward. And it couldn't have worked out better to be teaming up with these two. Everything happens for a reason.”

Riot BBQ opens June 5 at 2180 South Delaware Street; find more information at riotbbqcompany.com.