ASLI Mediterranean Grill Opens in Denver's Virginia Vale Neighborhood | Westword
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ASLI Mediterranean Grill Opens in Virginia Vale

One of just a few kosher restaurants in the city, it's serving Israeli fare with a large selection of vegetarian and vegan options.
The regionally-inspired interior of ASLI Mediterranean Grill.
The regionally-inspired interior of ASLI Mediterranean Grill. Abigail Bliss
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What: ASLI Mediterranean Grill

Where: 970 South Oneida Street

When: Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

For more info: Visit asligrill.com
click to enlarge various food on plates
Israeli street food at ASLI blends Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavors.
Abigail Bliss
What we saw: “I'm all about authenticity and trying something new and different,” says Nadav Abergel, owner of ASLI Mediterranean Grill.

The eatery, which opened on November 5 in the Virginia Vale neighborhood, is one of just a few kosher restaurants in Denver. Because the Jewish community is spread throughout the metro area, Abergel explains that a centralized location was both imperative and strategic. “We knew that this community was lacking options, and that it's not going to interfere with any other crowd. Kosher meat is just like any other meat," he says.

Past its brick archways and covered patio, visitors to ASLI are able to see right into its kitchen, where two vertical, rotating skewers slow-roast chicken shawarma and veal. The menu appears above the large serving window. It seems concise at first glance, but the opportunities to mix and match are numerous. Any protein such as ground beef kebab, fried chicken, chicken skewers, grilled chicken breast, vegetarian sabich and vegan falafel can be served in a pita, on a baguette or as a salad or plate.

The menu lists five side options including French fries, sweet-potato fries, rice, falafel and Israeli chopped salad. There are also four flavors of hummus available: shawarma, sabich, falafel and mushroom. Drinks are featured on the overhead menu, though visitors will likely first spot colorful bottles of Prigat, an Israeli juice, stocked in a self-serve refrigerator.

Sweet sips of this fruity beverage break up the heavy, savory flavors of the dishes, which are influenced by both Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine. “It is Israeli street food, but it's the same food you would find on the streets of Greece, Turkey, Egypt, Lebanon and all that area,” comments Abergel.

Guests are called to collect their entrees from the counter when ready, and seating throughout the restaurant accommodates groups of varying sizes.

The atmosphere is casual and family-friendly, and the interior nods to the regions ASLI is inspired by. Like the Israeli flag, the restaurant features a blue and white color palette, including a mural that explains the meaning of its name: "ASLI in Hebrew slang means the original, real deal, authentic, no joke," it says. 

Complementary textures appear on each wall: wooden slats, white-painted brick, natural stone and decorative tiles with a traditional Mediterranean style. There’s a subtle coastal vibe to the space, seen in its wood beam light fixtures and a few tasteful pieces of beachy decor.
click to enlarge Falafel plate from ASLI
ASLI Mediterranean Grill impressed with its many vegan and vegetarian options.
Abigail Bliss
What surprised us: Along with keeping it kosher, ASLI Mediterranean Grill has a surprising number of vegan and vegetarian options, though the protein selection is limited to two items: sabich, a popular Israeli street food consisting of fried eggplant, hard-boiled eggs and tahini; and falafel, which happens to be Abergel’s personal favorite thing on the menu.

“We use fresh hummus, garbanzo beans and a lot of greens,” he explains, adding that the falafel is made in-house each morning. “I like when it's hot, crispy and fresh. That's the difference between frozen falafel and a real-deal falafel.”

The falafel is served as a set of nine when ordered as a plate, and it is indeed the real deal in terms of flavor and texture. Plates also include one side and two salads. I opted for rice, which complemented the texture of the crunchy falafel, along with a refreshing cucumber-tomato mix and a vinegar-based red cabbage salad. The latter paired especially well with the meal, adding a pleasant dose of acidity.
click to enlarge Mushroom hummus from ASLI
The mushroom hummus is an absolute must-try.
Abigail Bliss
I could have eaten the entire bowl of smooth, savory mushroom hummus as a meal in itself. A pile of umami-rich creminis rests in the center of the dish, complete with a dash of paprika, a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of freshly chopped parsley. It’s served with warm, fluffy pita, and the portion is generous, like most menu items at ASLI Mediterranean Grill. As a casual spot with counter service, $19.95 to $29.95 for a plate may seem steep, but many entrees are easily shareable, and solo diners are almost guaranteed to leave with leftovers.

Despite being plenty full, I did crave something sweet after the meal, but currently, ASLI does not offer dessert. I would love to see the restaurant add regionally inspired cookies, pastries or other confections. But after dining, visitors can drive two miles up the road to try another of Abergel’s concepts: I Scream Gelato in Lowry, which also accommodates all dietary preferences.

“It's super important to have options for all customers," Abergel concludes. "We want to make sure that if a family shows up, everyone will find something [on the menu].”
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