Atomic Cowboy's pair of restaurants, Fat Sully's and Denver Biscuit Company, might make you stay forever

I spent plenty of hours drinking tap beer over board games back when the Atomic Cowboy, 3237 East Colfax Avenue, was just a fun bar, a great place for socializing that kept the alcohol flowing and the food list negligible...

By Laura Shunk

December 7, 2010

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I spent plenty of hours drinking tap beer over board games back when the Atomic Cowboy, 3237 East Colfax Avenue, was just a fun bar, a great place for socializing that kept the alcohol flowing and the food list negligible. Over the past couple of years, I watched the place evolve as Drew and Ashleigh Shader, the couple who own Atomic Cowboy, added Fat Sully's NY Pizza and the Denver Biscuit Company under the same roof, giving patrons reason to come through the doors for food -- or stay put instead of wandering down Colfax when they needed sustenance to soak up the alcohol. For this week's review, I evaluated dining at the Atomic Cowboy in all its different manifestations, pairing pizzas with beers at night and returning in the morning for biscuits and gravy. Is the food at Atomic Cowboy as big a draw as the Connect Four? Find out tomorrow, when the review is posted here, along with a slideshow.

Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

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