Denver’s Tastiest Green Chile Is Being Served at a Garden Center | Westword
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Denver’s Tastiest Green Chile Is Being Served at a Garden Center

Get it while you can — it's only available on weekends through October.
Image: green chile with rice and beans and a crispy chile relleno
The green chile plate and a crispy chile relleno from Nick's. Molly Martin
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Green chile season has arrived! Stands are popping up all over, sending the aroma of fresh-roasting chiles wafting through the air. Every year, as the temperatures begin to drop, we release our annual list of the best places to eat green chile in the metro area. But one of our favorite destinations for a green chile fix isn't on the list. That's because it's not open year-round — and it itsn't even a restaurant.

Aurora is a hotbed for global cuisine, but this green chile is being served at a different kind of our favorite places to visit in the city.

Since 1987, Nick's Garden Center at 2001 South Chambers Road has been more than a place to buy plants. The family-owned business transforms with the seasons and lures in fans who come not just for the greenery, pots and soil but also for the locally grown produce it offers in the summer or its fresh-cut Christmas trees and visits with Santa during the holidays.
click to enlarge barrels of green chiles
Choose-your-own chile mix at the stand at Nick's.
Molly Martin
Nick's truly shines, though, when the chiles arrive. Piles of Anaheims, Big Jims, Marisols and more in varying heat levels are displayed in large baskets so guests can create their own chile mix, which is roasted on site while you wait. That stand is also where you can — and should — order a cob of roasted corn, which you can load up with mayo, seasonings and hot sauce at the condiment table.

But don't fill up on corn alone. Ten years ago, Nick's added a seasonal cafe that's open only on Saturdays and Sundays from mid-August through the end of October. Guests order from a small window, and Nick's has plenty of shaded seating where you can enjoy your meal. The concise menu includes burgers, hot dogs and a BLAT alongside a lineup of Mexican eats loaded with what you're really here for: the green chile.
click to enlarge corn on the cob
Start your visit to Nick's with roasted corn on the cob.
Molly Martin
Co-owner Richard Ortega says the magic is in the recipe. Nick's Garden Center was founded by his parents, Nick and Dulcenia Ortega, who were born and raised in New Mexico, so it's no surprise that this place takes chile season seriously. The recipe is Dulcenia's and has been in the family for years.

Now, her chile has amassed a cult following for two key reasons. Most importantly, it delivers on flavor. It's brownish-green in color, with small bits of pork, a bold punch of heat, and plenty of roasty goodness. It's exactly what green chile (the dish) should be: a vehicle for showcasing the flavor of pure, peak-season, freshly roasted chiles.
click to enlarge people standing in front of an ordering window
Bring your appetite to Nick's Garden Center.
Molly Martin
The cafe's food is also super affordable. The most popular item is the $5 handheld bean and cheese burrito with green chile inside, but you can also opt for $7 chile and cheese-smothered fries; a green chile plate with rice, beans, and a tortilla for just $7.50; and a $6 crispy chile relleno. "We want to keep it accessible," Richard Ortega notes.

The fresh chiles available for roasting will be around a while longer, but Saturday, September 6, is Nick's annual Chilefest. This event includes live music from noon to 5 p.m. and a prize wheel that could land you free roasted chiles to take home. (Pro tip: visit Nick's website for a coupon good for $5 off a bushel.)
click to enlarge barrel of chiles
Nick's has a variety of chiles to choose from.
Molly Martin
On Saturday, September 27, Nick's will kick off its Fall Fest, which is open every day through October and includes the last days of chile roasting plus tons of activities for kids such as train rides, an inflatable obstacle course, pedal kart rides and, of course, a whole lot of pumpkins to pick from.

Nick's Garden Center is located at 2001 South Chambers Road in Aurora and is open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. The cafe is open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday through the end of October. For more information, visit nicksgardencenter.com.