On Tuesday, October 15, from 6:30 to 8 p.m., Noel will be at Denver bar TrashHawk, 1539 South Broadway, for a short reading, Q&A and book signing for his new release, Malört: The Redemption of a Revered & Reviled Spirit.
The book traces the spirit back from Carl Jeppson, a Swedish immigrant who began selling it door-to-door in the Windy City before it was acquired by a lawyer-turned-liquor company exec who, for much of his life, made it his personal mission to promote it — with little success. The tale includes a jail stint, an affair and, eventually, an unlikely rise to fame under an unlikely steward of the brand, Pat Gabelick, who found herself running the company "sort of bewildered," Noel notes.
It's a fascinating tale. Malört seemed destined to fail, and almost did several times. But against the odds, it's become a cult favorite with a growing audience, especially since it began being distributed to cities like Denver in recent years.
"It's such a fun subject for people to engage with," Noel says. "People still think of it as a Chicago thing," he adds, but it now has a stronghold in places like Milwaukee, New Orleans, Portland, Washington, D.C., and the Mile High, where local distillery Ballmer Peak makes its own version. It even landed on our list of the biggest local cocktail trends in 2023. "It's really cool how it does resonate. ... Service-industry people drink the hell out of it."
A Chicago Handshake: an Old Style and a shot of Malört.
TrashHawk
It wasn't an easy task to stitch together the story of how Jeppson's Malört came to be what it is, but Noel's research will give anyone, whether a fan of the spirit or not, an appreciation for its journey. "The thing I hope people take away from the readings is the depth of the story and the humanity of the story," he says. "It's a book about Malört, but it's really a story of people and relationships and triumphs and heartbreak. ... Malört didn't just become Malört on its own; there were all these people and complex relationships that made it happen."
The book even includes some Denver connections along the way, and TrashHawk is the ideal place for Noel to host the event, as it was our 2022 pick for the best place in town to drink Malört — something attendees on Tuesday will be doing as well. "It has to be the shot — that's the way to get it," Noel says of his favorite way to enjoy the spirit, though there will be some Malört cocktails on offer as well.
Whether you've yet to experience the phenomenon of Malört face (Google it if you're unfamiliar) personally yet or not, this event is sure to be a memorable one.
