Mark Antonation
Audio By Carbonatix
The Denver food scene has evolved over the past two decades, in the process shedding much of its former cowtown reputation. But this city still appreciates gloriously grilled T-bones, filets, New York strips and other juicy cuts.
In fact, the steakhouse has made a comeback in recent years, with additions such as the four-year-old A5, where metro meets modern. And Guard and Grace has been such a hit that Troy Guard has even taken the concept to Texas, which is something like bringing coals to Newcastle.
Still, there’s something special about snagging a table at one of the city’s old-school steakhouses, and the metro area is home to some true classics — here are the best.
You haven’t really lived in Denver until you’ve dined at Bastien’s.
Evan Sem
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Bastien’s Buckhorn Exchange has a hell of a taxidermy collection. Photo courtesy of Buckhorn Exchange
3503 East Colfax Avenue
303-322-0363
There may not be another restaurant in Denver that’s used its history to such great advantage, celebrating everything noteworthy from its past – from the mid-century aesthetic to the quality steaks – while meeting the expectations of modern diners. The family-run business dates back to the 1930s, but the current incarnation was constructed in 1958, in distinct Googie style from the roofline to the neon sign. Inside, dinner in the bird’s-nest loft feels intimate and old-school. This place is famous for its sugar steak – served no more than medium-rare – but it also offers a dozen other styles to choose from, and every steak dinner includes a choice of potato, soup or salad, and sauteed veggies. Pair your meal with the restaurant’s Filthy Martini, made with your choice of Beluga Vodka or the Botanist Gin, dry vermouth, and olive and banana pepper brine with
Buckhorn Exchange A meal at Columbine Steakhouse is still affordable. Erik Rangel
1000 Osage Street
303-534-9505
The Buckhorn Exchange delivers a Wild West experience at an old-timey spot that still has meaning for today’s diners. Before Henry “Shorty Scout” Zietz opened the Buckhorn in 1893, he rode with Buffalo Bill; in 1905, he fed President Teddy Roosevelt, then headed off with him to hunt big game. The menu is loaded with big game to this day, meat that demands a pretty big price tag. If you’re on a nineteenth-century budget, head to the historic bar on the second floor, where you can snack on Rocky Mountain oysters, enjoy entertainment and gaze upon all the taxidermied specimens distantly related to what might arrive on your plate.
Columbine Steakhouse Courtesy of the Fort
300 Federal Boulevard
303-936-9110
For over sixty years, this no-frills spot has drawn crowds from lunch through dinner as those in the know flock here for fresh-cut steak dinners at a budget-friendly price. On one side is a walk-up counter where you place your order and pay as the cooks expertly kiss various cuts of beef with just the right amount of flames. If you want table service, head to the bar side. Either way, what you’re going to get is a no-nonsense meal that comes with a slice of Texas toast, a baked potato liberally loaded with butter, a simple salad and a healthy dose of pure nostalgia.
The Fort Prime beef is on the menu at Luke’s. Courtesy of Luke’s, A Steak Place
19192 Highway 8, Morrison
303-697-4771
Perched in the foothills just below downtown Morrison, the Fort has looked out over the ever-changing skyline of Denver for over sixty years. The sprawling adobe structure was built in the early 1960s by Elizabeth and Samuel Arnold as a replica of Bent’s Fort, a trading post located along the Santa Fe Trail in southeastern Colorado more than a century earlier. Initially the Arnold home, it soon became a destination dining spot; it’s still owned by the Arnolds’ daughter today. The menu is filled with steak, wild game and Rocky Mountain oysters, and the place sells more bison than any other independent restaurant in the country. An herb butter bison steak pairs quite well with a shot of gunpowder-spiked whiskey.
Luke’s, A Steak Place Lulu’s Inn hosts events of all kinds regularly, including car shows.
4990 Kipling Street, Wheat Ridge
303-422-3300
Luke’s is nearly thirty years old, but it’s been under new ownership since 2019. You can go all out with USDA Prime ribeye or New York strips, but the house steaks are cooked nicely, too, and ring in at surprisingly low prices. You’ll find all the comfort of a neighborhood classic with none of the stuffiness of the high-end national chains.
Lulu’s Inn Mickey’s Top Sirloin has been serving up steaks for more than half a century. Molly Martin
33355 CO-36, Watkins
303-261-9672
When Lulu’s Inn opened in the ’40s, the classic country joint was actually in the country, but today Watkins is just minutes from the eastern edge of Aurora, and a short hop from Denver International Airport and its nearby hotels. Lulu’s left its original home and moved a few doors down in the ’80s, into a bigger space with a bar, full dining room and dance floor. Although it’s changed hands since then, the popular traditions continue. Along with reasonably priced steaks anytime, head here on Fridays for the surf and turf special with lobster tail and your choice of cut, or swing by on Saturdays for the roasted prime rib special. You can cook your own steak on the patio barbecue, though the pros at Lulu’s Inn are also happy to do it for you.
Mickey’s Top Sirloin
6950 Broadway
303-426-5881
In 2005, Mickey’s replaced its decrepit, decades-old home with a shiny, family-friendly new building on the same lot. The atmosphere is still casual and diner-like, though, and the menu is basically unchanged – which guarantees that you’ll get a whole lot of food for just a little bit of money. Most of the fare is solidly Italian and Mexican, especially at lunch; steaks star on the dinner menu. The meat might only be Choice grade, but the kitchen knows how to make the most of it.
Steakhouse 10
3517 South Elati Street, Englewood
303-789-0911
Steakhouse 10 isn’t where you go for a cheap slab of beef; the menu reflects modern steakhouse prices for quality cuts. But the place feels old-school and welcoming like the best neighborhood eateries; you’ll often see the same folks in the dining room, so you can nod hello to familiar faces on the way to your table. The combination of properly cooked steaks and service that makes you feel like family has kept the place going for nearly three decades.