The Best Bites We Had in January: A New Omakase Experience and More

Coming off a delicious 2024, I started the new year with an indulgent meal at a new addition to Larimer Square.

In mid-December, chef Phillip Frankland Lee and pro skater Neen Williams brought their viral smashburger concept NADC (Not a Damn Chance) Burger to the former TAG space at 1441 Larimer Street. But Denver's got some pretty good competition in the smashburger scene, with local options like Twans, Dalton's at RiNo Country Club, Snipeburger nights at King of Wings in Golden, and Right Cream's popular burger, which is now available every day it's open, Wednesday through Sunday.

At $16 for its signature double burger, NADC is on the pricier side. I prefer to get my burger fix at Atomic Cowboy, where the Lights Out Burger is a steal anytime at $7.95 for a single or $10.95 for a double.

But what is worth the splurge is Frankland Lee's other addition to the local dining scene, his Michelin-starred concept Sushi by Scratch, in the basement below NADC. A meal here runs $195 per person along with a 20 percent service charge for seventeen-plus courses. Drinks pairings or à la carte beverages are additional. Seatings are available at 5, 7:15 and 9:30 p.m., but guests should plan to arrive a half-hour before for the included welcome beverage and canapé service.

When I visited in early January, the elevator was out of order so we were escorted through the kitchen and down a set of stairs to a lounge area hidden behind a black curtain, where I was immediately given a small hot towel for my hands and a mocktail (the restaurant had not yet secured its liquor license) followed by four small bites.

Guests are then led to the sushi counter space, where each person's name is written on a slate in front of their seat. Drink options are explained and soon, the chefs begin to work their magic, describing each course as it is served. The pacing is excellent — rapid enough to keep the entire two-hour-ish experience exciting but never rushed — and there was not one miss among the bites. (Though I'm still not convinced I'm a fan of the texture of jellyfish.)

We started with yellowtail topped with corn pudding, sourdough crumbs, housemade soy sauce and fresh wasabi; that was followed by Hokkaido scallop and fire-kissed baby sea bream. Along the way, bites like waygu, bone marrow, eel and uni all made appearances. It was a whirlwind of flavors served by obvious professionals and should be a must-visit for sushi fans who are up for a memorable meal.
If exploring Denver's ever-growing pizza scene is more your style, two new(ish) spots should be on your radar. The PZA previously served out of the kitchen that's attached to Tight End, but after moving out of that space last year, owner Jake Rothey found a standalone brick-and-mortar on Santa Fe Drive. During a pre-opening taste test in January, I sampled pretty much every pie on the menu.

Rothey describes his pizza style as an old-world, Neapolitan-like dough that's light and chewy with an East Coast-inspired twist. My favorites were the B.I.G. Island, with bacon, jalapeño and pineapple jam instead of the typical pineapple chunks; and the Dillmatic, with pickle slices and housemade ranch. But you really can't go wrong with any option. The salads, sandwiches on pizza dough bread and wings are solid, too.
Mitchell Santee launched Mario's Speakeasy Pizza from the kitchen inside Pour House in 2023, slinging slices and whole pies late into the evening hours. After Pour House closed last October, Santee was able to take over the lease. Now, he's operating the entire bar, offering his pizzas from open to close.

These East Coast-style pies brought me right back to the pizzerias we'd go to when visiting family on Long Island when I was a kid, and Santee clearly puts a lot of care into making them. It's also a big bonus that they're available until 2:30 a.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday and until 3 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Plus, Pour House is offering 99-cent beers through the end of February.
Another dumpling spot joined the scene when Fortune Nong Jia Le opened in the former home of Bittersweet near Wash Park. The owner is the chef at another dumpling favorite, Fortune Wok to Table in Cherry Creek. The specialty here is Shanghainese-style dumplings available steamed or fried in several varieties: pork, beef or vegetable (spinach and bok choy), and our group of seven quickly powered through several orders.

The menu also includes Shanghainese-style noodles and soups as well as larger dishes made for sharing, such as pork belly in a garlic soy reduction, a crispy half-duck and an interesting preparation of sole that ate like little grown-up fish stick bites in a very good way.
Tavernetta made the latest edition of our Top 100 Restaurants in Denver, and my visit in January was a great reminder of what makes it so special. The wine was flowing — if you catch sommelier Clara Klein working, it's a smart choice to let her guide the way in vino selections, as she has a way of talking grapes that is downright fun. But I blame the booze for the fact that I didn't get a good photo of my favorite dish of the night (though you can see a video of it on TikTok): the radiatore with red wine braised boar and black trumpet mushrooms. It's a rich and deeply flavorful pasta course that's made for this time of year.

Other standouts included the generous portion of frito misto with large prawns, chunks of the market fish of the day and calamari served with aioli; and the perfectly cooked duck breast with beets, brovada (fermented turnips) and pine bud. Be sure to save room for dessert, too, especially the affogato with honey gelato and the goat cheese semifreddo with citrus slices and a Sicilian pistachio coating.