The Eight Best Bites Our Food Editor Had in November

Somehow, even in the midst of Thanksgiving cooking, wrapping up the Top 100 Bars list and getting ready to release the new edition of our Top 100 Restaurants list on December 12, I fit in a lot of stellar meals in November.

Dining out has indeed gotten more expensive, but there are still deals to be found. A new-to-me favorite is Spice Room, which has locations in Arvada, on West 38th Avenue and in the former Annie's Cafe space on East Colfax.

That's where I dug into its version of a blooming onion, dubbed the Masala Onion Bloom. It's huge and fried to a crisp in a gluten-free batter, dusted with chaat masala and served with a sweet dipping sauce — for just $7. The large menu here includes Indian spins on other dishes such as tacos and pizza as well as all the familiar staples, plus a lineup of Indian street food and more.
Chris Heredia has been slinging tacos from his food truck for twelve years, and in October, he debuted the brick-and-mortar Chivis Tacos at 2101 East Colfax Avenue. The counter-service spot has a handful of tables and a stocked salsa bar. While the enchiladas were tasty, the tacos were the real hit. I tried the chorizo, carnitas and carne asada, which was my favorite of the bunch. Priced at $3 each and served with grilled onions and a fried jalapeño, these tacos are a deal, and I plan to frequent this spot.
When I met up with friends for a lunch date at China Cafe II at 16870 East Iliff Avenue in Aurora, I was starving and immediately ordered a plate of wontons in chile oil. They were a treat, and I gobbled up more than my share before the rest of the food showed up. Thankfully, I hadn't completely ruined my appetite, because among the other dishes we ordered were the best green beans I've had in a long time. Fried but still crisp, they were bursting with flavor from dried chiles and minced pork. I'd take these over green bean casserole any day.
I found myself back in Aurora and craving Korean, so I made a stop at Thank Sool Pocha, our 2022 Best of Denver pick for Best Korean Restaurant. This place gets rowdier at night when the soju is flowing and the music is turned up, but I arrived for an early dinner on a cold night and was the only table. Still, the staff was welcoming, and the simple kimchi fried rice topped with a perfect sunnyside-up egg was exactly what I needed — and was a fun pairing with the crispy fried chicken skin I munched alongside it.
In July, the award-winning Frasca Hospitality Group opened a new restaurant in an unexpected location. Osteria Alberico is in the King Soopers shopping center at East Hampden Avenue and South University Boulevard; since its debut there this summer, it's proven to be a popular spot, regularly drawing a lively crowd for dinner. You'd be smart to arrive early — not only to beat the rush, but to catch happy hour, which runs from 4 to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. Chef Russell Stippich, who once worked as a line cook at Frasca and returned to the group after leading the kitchen at Bar Dough, is proud of his most playful addition, a mortadella corn dog, listed on the menu as Mortadella e Mais. Pair it with a glass of Scarpetta red or white or a spritz, and stick around for the pizza and pasta.
Like Frasca, Barolo Grill on East Sixth Avenue is a longtime fine-dining Italian staple. Open since 1992, its clientele skews older and it's a bit like a time capsule of that era — in a good way. It feels comforting, and the staff (including owner Ryan Fletter, who's often working the floor) brings plenty of energy. You can order a la carte here if you just want to pop in for one or two dishes and a glass of wine, but I recently tried the four-course option, which feels like a steal for $95.

Diners choose one dish from each section of the menu to create their own lineup — which is even better if you go with someone who likes to share, so that you can taste a wide range of options. Barolo is known for its super-indulgent annual truffle dinner, which takes place in November, but you can — and should — add freshly shaved black truffles (or the more rare and expensive white truffles, if they're available) to any dish for $35. If it's been a while or you've never dined at Barolo, this is your sign to go for it.
Sometimes I still dream about the fried chicken from White Fence Farm, but another old-school spot sort of scratches that itch. The Wishbone in Westminster is a time capsule from the past, where the staff seem to know most of the regulars by name. The business has been family-owned and operated since 1963, when the original on Federal Boulevard was founded. The current iteration opened in 1994 and the star of the menu is the simple, homestyle fried chicken. While the sides and gravy are pretty standard, the chicken itself is a crackly-on-the-outside, juicy-inside delight.
The best meal I had in November was at a new addition to the scene, Mezcaleria Alma. Located next door to its Michelin-starred sister restaurant Alma Fonda Fina, it has a vibe — and menu — all its own. While Alma pays homage to the Mexican fare that chef Johnny Curiel grew up eating, Mezcaleria Alma is inspired by the vibrant cuisine of Mexico City. As it kicked off its opening weekend, the small, narrow space was buzzing and the mezcal was flowing.

Grab a seat at the counter if you can to watch the staff work their magic. Every dish I tried was a winner, but one standout was the Burrata con Huitlacoche. Burrata's been popular on menus for a while now, but this rendition was a fresh take. It arrived loaded with huitlacoche succotash, green tomatoes, salsa verde and candied pepitas for crunch, plus toasted slices of sourdough from Bakery Four.

This is the third restaurant in less than a year for Curiel and his wife, Kasie, who have proven to be powerhouses in the local dining scene. If you haven't been to one of their spots, that should be one of your New Year's resolutions.