Q:You said Mortons of Chicago has great steaks, but not the greatest steaks youve tasted. What do you consider Denvers best steakhouse?
A:Denvers first Mortons, which moved from the Tivoli to 1710 Wynkoop Street in 1995, was my favorite steakhouse for many years. Although the staff was often snooty, especially to female customers, the beef was always a delight. (I was much less impressed with the areas second Mortons, at 8480 East Belleview Avenue in Englewood, after eating there for my November 2 "Overload" review.)
When Del Friscos Double Eagle Steak House came to town in 1997 (its at 8100 East Orchard Road in Greenwood Village, 303-796-0100), I switched my steakhouse allegiances. At Del Friscos, Ive never had a piece of meat that wasnt packed with flavor, and the restaurant has all the other steakhouse requisites down pat: impeccable but unpretentious service, a not-too-manly atmosphere, rich, gooey side dishes, a great wine list and rich, gooey desserts. Ive also never had any bland beef at my second-favorite steakhouse in town, Sullivans Steakhouse (1745 Wazee Street, 303-295-2664) but then, its owned by the same company as Del Friscos.
Still, the best steak Ive cut into recently didnt come from one of the big boys; it was the porterhouse at the Manhattan Grill (231 Milwaukee Street, 303-333-6444). Cut from the smallest part of the short loin and adorned with only its juices and a sprinkling of salt and pepper, the 22-ounce steak was cooked a perfect medium-rare and possessed the bloody, beefy taste that makes eating meat one of lifes greatest guilty pleasures.
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