Cafe Society

Chef and Tell: Paul Reilly of Encore

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Most overrated ingredient: Salt. I don't know how we'd cook without it, but how many times do you hear someone complain that a dish is too salty, or that it shouldn't be made with salt at all? It's overused, and I'm totally guilty of overusing it myself, but I think that people's palates are extremely discerning toward salt -- more so than with any other ingredient. It's a tricky slope to tread.

Most undervalued ingredient: Tarragon. It's my favorite herb. So many times when people eat my food and they can't quite put their finger on why they're enjoying it, I'm sure it's because of tarragon. It gives the dish a "Why am I enjoying this so much?" feeling.

One food you detest: I hate hard-boiled eggs! Hate them! It's a long story that involves my youth, a playground on Long Island, a sweltering 98-degree summer day, a picnic lunch, too much iced tea and a merry-go-round swing. You fill in the gaps.

One food you can't live without: Coffee. Need it first thing in the morning, have it when I first get to work, have it again after lunch and then right before dinner. It's my friend, my blanket of comfort, my solace and my pick-me-up.

Favorite local ingredient: We get the most beautiful micro-greens, micro-herbs and salad greens from Josh Halder at Verde Farms. He's a former cook, so he knows exactly what chefs like and want. Not only are they the perfect aesthetic finisher to our dishes, but they taste unbelievably good, too.

Most embarrassing moment in the kitchen: I moved back to Denver to take a job at Mirepoix under Bryan Moscatello, who opened Adega. Because I was living in Brooklyn, I was about two days behind the rest of the kitchen as we were preparing to open the new restaurant. On my first day there, no one knew me, so I'm a bull in a china shop trying to show off the fact that I'm the new kid from NYC that's gonna cook circles around the guys in the kitchen. I volunteered to make duck-liver sausage, which was going to be the accompaniment to the seared duck breast, one of the signature dinner dishes, and I'd barely begun to grind the meat when I realized I had the blade in backwards. So I took it over to the dish station and started to clean the whole thing out. As I dropped the blade in the sink, the dishwasher turned on the not even two hours into my new job, it was goodbye grinder. Later I heard chef Bryan lean over to our sommelier and whisper, "Who hired this fucking kid? I can't let him ruin my new restaurant." It took a week to get a new blade, and I don't think that exact dish ever made it on the menu.

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Lori Midson
Contact: Lori Midson