The dining scene at Denver International just got a first-class upgrade. Some of this year’s most anticipated airport restaurants are now open in Concourse A — just a few gates away from other recent additions also operated by Westminster-based concessionaire Mission Yogurt.
“We are excited to officially open the doors to not just one, but three extraordinary concepts, all locally-owned and operated,” commented the company’s president, Roderick Tafoya, during the ribbon-cutting ceremony on July 17.
Also on hand were the restaurateurs behind the new outposts: Lorena Cantarovici of Maria Empanada, Tommy Lee of Uncle and Linda Hampsten Fox of The Bindery.
“Right here is where I took my very first step into what would become my new city, my new home, my new country. This is more than just a ribbon-cutting ceremony for me,” said Cantarovici, an immigrant from Argentina. “This is a full circle moment, from arriving in Denver with just one backpack and a head full of dreams to standing here, opening my restaurant in one of the biggest airports in the world.”
Now boasting five locations, Maria Empanada serves Westword readers’ favorite South American fare. Great for travelers on the go, the empanadas at DIA mirror those offered at other outposts, with popular selections like ham and cheese, braised chicken with chimichurri sauce, and breakfast options available. To honor the airport’s first and only Argentinian restaurant, tango dancers and a traditional musical duo performed during the event.
Lee took the mic next and recalled when Tafoya, a repeat guest at Uncle, pitched an airport location in 2013, just a year after Lee had opened his first restaurant in Highland. Plenty busy with his new venture, Lee initially declined the offer. But after gaining traction, opening sister concept Hop Alley and a second Uncle outpost near Washington Park, a successful airport location seemed within reach.
“This is the hardest thing I've ever done but also one of the most rewarding things I've done," Lee said. "To have the chance to tell my story as a first-generation Asian-American entrepreneur is pretty amazing at an international airport.”
Because of limited space and ingredient suppliers, some of Uncle’s original recipes have been tweaked for the airport. But according to loyal fans who have dined in Concourse A, the dishes taste the same — a win in Lee's book. Uncle regulars will recognize ramen options topped with duck confit or spicy chicken, as well as its vegetarian khao soi and brothless bowls like dan dan noodles. Grab-and-go items are also in the works (as is a new collaborative restaurant concept not far from the airport).
Finally, Hampsten Fox spoke: “To imagine that one day I would be making lavender chocolate chip cookies and muffalettas here, basically under a Dreamliner, is certainly a dream I didn't know existed.”
Those signature Bindery items are joined by familiar brunch options, house-baked pastries, fresh salads and other sandwiches also served at the flagship LoHi eatery. Market selections are available as takeaway kits, but travelers with time can enjoy the only oyster bar in the airport. Pair a handful with a tin of caviar and a mini bottle of Moët champagne.
Though no bubbles were poured at the ribbon-cutting, the celebration was lively. Cheers rang through the concourse as all owners simultaneously snipped the grand opening ribbon, marking Mission Yogurt’s twentieth restaurant opening at the airport.
Maria Empanada, Uncle and The Bindery are open for business on Concourse A near Gate A26. For more airport dining options, visit flydenver.com/dine-shop-relax/dine.