T Street puts short rib in nearly everything, including these enchiladas.EXPAND
T Street puts short rib in nearly everything, including these enchiladas.
Bridget Wood

This Belmar Eatery Does Brunch to a T

Belmar draws shoppers from all over town, but before you begin your shopping spree, fueling up with brunch at T Street Roadhouse could help you power through the day. T Street is a sibling restaurant to Spanky’s Roadhouse, near the University of Denver, but T Street feels like more of a steakhouse, while Spanky's sticks closer to the roadhouse ideal. Here in Belmar, steaks, seafood and deluxe burgers draw dinner guests, and you'll find some of that influence on the brunch menu, too, with prime rib, short rib and even a breakfast burger.

Start brunch by building your own Bloody Mary for $4; garnish your drink with a choice of carrots, pickles, bacon, onions, celery, jalapeños and olives (among many other choices) to create your own appetizer salad with a vodka kick. Bottomless mimosas come with a choice of six juices, and you can make it even fancier by ordering a Buck’s Fizz, a standard mimosa topped with grenadine and a cherry.

Step up to the bar for mimosas or Bloody Marys.EXPAND
Step up to the bar for mimosas or Bloody Marys.
Bridget Wood

T Street has a way with short ribs, so the almost magically tender meat finds its way into a number of dishes, including a breakfast burrito smothered in spicy white cheddar cream sauce, a short rib scramble warmed with green chile, and enchiladas layered with the same sauce as the burrito and sided with Brussels sprouts tossed in honey-chipotle molasses.

The restaurant is proud of its burgers, too, and with good reason. The Roadhouse comes with braised short rib (of course) on top of the burger patty, while the Carolina BBQ burger loads on fried pork belly and slaw. I tried the Teller burger because the savory-sweet allure of bacon-onion apple jam seemed just right for breakfast, especially with arugula, huge slabs of Brie and more bacon piled high on a brioche bun. Burger sides include apple-chipotle slaw, fries, lemon-parmesan kale and dangerously good tangy ranch chips.

End brunch with chocolate mousse cake.EXPAND
End brunch with chocolate mousse cake.
Bridget Wood
A burger hits the spot, even at brunch.EXPAND
A burger hits the spot, even at brunch.
Bridget Wood

"Thanks to our resources, I have the ability to make a special of the day, which is rare,” says executive sous-chef Sam Jordan — so make sure you get the rundown from your server.

“We don’t have a table limit during brunch, so as long as you’re not out of control, you’re welcome to stay all day,” adds GM Michael Dunston. Those extra mimosas may dampen your shopping enthusiasm, though.

Dessert is a must-have, because everything is made from scratch. Classic New York cheesecake, or a daily chef's cheesecake, are a good place to start. Lemon bars, peach cobbler and a pineapple-rum pound cake (which is gluten-free) add further temptation. But for a rich and decadent brunch ending, go with the chocolate mousse cake with its Oreo crust and a topping of peanuts, whipped cream, caramel and chocolate sauce. You'll forget why you came to Belmar in the first place.

T Street Roadhouse is located at 445 South Teller Street in Lakewood and serves brunch from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. For more information, call 303-936-5179 or visit the restaurant's website. Hot tip: There is a gluten-free menu for brunch, lunch and dinner; just ask!

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