The Corner Office Restaurant + Martini Bar does retro-chic like no other joint in town, so a spin on a bar stool with a martini in hand, along with throwback bites like Devils on Horseback, classic prime rib and a towering iceberg wedge salad are to be expected during the dinner hour. But lesser known is the Corner Office's entertaining brunch that's served up every weekend.
Poutine, famous in Canada but faddish in Denver, doesn't show up on too many dinner menus, let alone brunch. Typically just fries, cheese curds and brown gravy, here the addition of braised short rib and fried eggs turns truck-stop fare into a brunch must-have. The fries get a little soggy under the weight of the many toppings, but the trade-off is worth it. The cheese melts nicely into the simple but rich gravy, and the liquid yolks add a silky texture when mixed in, helping the gravy stick to the fries. Executive sous-chef Anthony Ornelas says that the dish is built to last and has always been a favorite for brunch and dinner.
If you prefer something sweet, order the imposing cinnamon roll, which incorporates just enough savory elements to keep it from becoming too sugary. Bacon streusel and stout beer icing combine to for an award-winning combination — literally. Ornelas points out that the cinnamon roll won the "sweet treat" category at the Denver Bacon & Beer festival in 2017. Ringing in as an even sweeter treat are the berry cheesecake waffles. Two small but fat waffles are stacked and layered with sweet cream-cheese filling, fresh strawberries and blueberries.
Vegetarian brunchers will be delighted with the falafel veggie burger, served on a brioche bun with creamy feta sauce and cucumber relish. The crunchy falafel gets a little soft from the cool toppings, but the flavors all worked well together. A grilled cheese sandwich with tomato soup, typically a kids'-menu standard, will please your inner child with cheesy goodness squeezed between ciabatta halves, so dip away.
The bar makes its own mango-carrot and peach-ginger juices, which are used for the $15 bottomless mimosas. The juices are so thick they almost mask the sparkling brut or rosé (your choice), but orange, pineapple and grapefruit juices are also available. You'll also find Bloody Marys and ten different martinis.
The Corner Office is located at 1401 Curtis Street, on the ground floor of the Curtis Hotel. Brunch is served from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, and there's also a smaller breakfast menu offered on weekday mornings. For more information, call 303-825-6500 or visit the restaurant's website. Hot tip: If you see smoke billowing from the rooftop, it's just Ornelas smoking meats for the dinner menu. Don't call the fire department; call for a dinner reservation!
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