Breakfast and Brunch

Brunch at Urban Farmer Is a Sustainably Good Time

Duck confit hash is a brunch favorite at Urban Farmer.
Duck confit hash is a brunch favorite at Urban Farmer. Bridget Wood
Sustainability is a popular restaurant catchphrase these days, but Urban Farmer, the eatery at the base of the Oxford Hotel downtown, puts a fair amount of effort into growing and sourcing the food on your plate, especially for a hotel restaurant. Chef Chris Starkus grows veggies and herbs in planters, on the hotel roof, and on a small property in the western suburbs; sprouts mushrooms in a display case in the basement (you can sneak down and take a look); and maintains his own beehives.

Urban Farmer also breaks down whole pigs, chickens and ducks every week and whole cows every quarter. General manager Susan Wieser explains that the kitchen prefers utilizing whole animals because it can use every part and make sure that nothing goes to waste. “We will use the breast for dinner, the legs for brunch and use bones for broths," she says, referring to the poultry — but pork and beef are handled similarly. "We’re more than just farm-to-table, and we live by a no-waste policy." Composting scraps is part of the program, too, down to the biodegradable straws used at the bar.

click to enlarge This parfait is perfect. - BRIDGET WOOD
This parfait is perfect.
Bridget Wood

Since the restaurant is attached to a hotel, it's open early every day of the week, so brunch can be enjoyed at any time, in case you don't want to brave the weekend crowds. I stuck with tradition on a weekend visit, though, sampling a few different dishes and drinks. I started my brunch with a seasonal sweet treat: pumpkin doughnut holes with a side of rich and creamy caramel sauce. The flavors of these deep-fried treats rotate, so if you miss out on pumpkin, something else will soon be a tempting replacement.

click to enlarge Doughnut holes come in seasonal flavors; these are pumpkin. - BRIDGET WOOD
Doughnut holes come in seasonal flavors; these are pumpkin.
Bridget Wood

If you've ever had trouble deciding between a waffle and French toast, you won't have to choose at Urban Farmer, where French toast waffles give you the best of both. French toast is cooked in a waffle iron before being topped with whipped mascarpone and a mixed berry compote. To say that this dish is decadent would be an understatement.


click to enlarge The Farmer's Number 4 (left) and the Violet Negroni. - BRIDGET WOOD
The Farmer's Number 4 (left) and the Violet Negroni.
Bridget Wood
To balance out the sweet French toast, I also tried the duck confit hash, which comes with sliced fingerling potatoes and huge pieces of slow-cooked duck beautifully plated and accented with egg yolk gastrique. If you want to be really healthy, you can try the coconut and chia-seed parfait with mint leaves and fresh berries on top.

The cocktail menu is as intriguing as the food. The Farmer’s Number 4 is a vodka-based cocktail enhanced with St-Germain elderflower liqueur and grapefruit; the giant ice cube in the middle of the drink is also made with grapefruit, giving more fruit to balance out the booze. The Violet Negroni comes out more greenish than violet, and with a bittersweet flavor from gin, Cocchi Americano and Suze (a French herbal liqueur). This drink was the stronger of the two, and also came garnished with nasturtium leaves (undoubtedly grown by Starkus). Mimosas and build-your-own Bloody Marys are also available if you aren’t feeling adventurous enough for a craft cocktail.

Urban Farmer is located at 1659 Wazee Street and serves brunch daily, though the menu is a little broader on Saturdays and Sundays. Visit the Urban Farmer website or call 303-262-6070 for more information. Hot tip: Book your New Year’s brunch now, because the restaurant will be packed!
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Bridget Wood is a contributor to Westword’s Food & Drink section. She can be found wandering Denver, mimosa in hand, searching for the best brunch spots the city has to offer. She spends her weekends shopping for obscure records and working on the Sunday crossword puzzle. Despite her Boston roots, she is learning to love green chile.