When I stopped by Patzcuaro's a few weeks ago to review it for this week's Second Helping, I sampled its house margarita to see how it stacked up against El Camino's version, which we named Best House Margarita in our Best of Denver 2011 issue.

The marg at Patzcuaro's was another textbook example of the white trash renditions we see all over town -- along the lines of the one at La Loma -- and it combined a sugary mix with well tequila to make it palatable.

The eatery practically forgoes tartness entirely, favoring sweet-and-sour mix to make the drink more quaffable, and the result is a syrupy candy-like cocktail, kissed with the essence of what almost tastes like pear nectar. Served in a heavy goblet rimmed with coarse salt, it came in just one size: jumbo.

That made the tequila go down easily -- but I had to stop after one for fear of a midday sugar crash followed by an epic hangover. Next time, I think I'll ask for a side of lime.

• Best of Denver