Duy Pham and Michael Degenhart, together again at Epernay

Long before Linger and Bittersweet and Twelve, there was Tante Louise, a French restaurant at 4900 East Colfax Avenue that Corky Douglass ran for over three decades. There were many storied periods during this run, but one of the most lauded was when the kitchen was under the direction of...

By Gretchen Kurtz

September 17, 2013

Audio By Carbonatix

[
          {
            "name": "GPT - Billboard - Slot Inline - Content - Labeled - No Desktop",
            "component": "23668565",
            "insertPoint": "2",
            "requiredCountToDisplay": "2"
          },{
            "name": "STN Player - Float - Mobile Only ",
            "component": "23853568",
            "insertPoint": "2",
            "requiredCountToDisplay": "2"
          },{
            "name": "Editor Picks",
            "component": "17242653",
            "insertPoint": "4",
            "requiredCountToDisplay": "1"
          },{
            "name": "Inline Links",
            "component": "18838239",
            "insertPoint": "8th",
            "startingPoint": 8,
            "requiredCountToDisplay": "7",
            "maxInsertions": 25
          },{
            "name": "GPT - 2x Rectangles Desktop, Tower on Mobile - Labeled",
            "component": "24956856",
            "insertPoint": "8th",
            "startingPoint": 8,
            "requiredCountToDisplay": "7",
            "maxInsertions": 25 
          
          },{
            "name": "Inline Links",
            "component": "18838239",
            "insertPoint": "8th",
            "startingPoint": 12,
            "requiredCountToDisplay": "11",
            "maxInsertions": 25
          },{
            "name": "GPT - Leaderboard to Tower - Slot Auto-select - Labeled",
            "component": "17676724",
            "insertPoint": "8th",
            "startingPoint": 12,
            "requiredCountToDisplay": "11",
            "maxInsertions": 25
          }
        ]

Long before Linger and Bittersweet and Twelve, there was Tante Louise, a French restaurant at 4900 East Colfax Avenue that Corky Douglass ran for over three decades. There were many storied periods during this run, but one of the most lauded was when the kitchen was under the direction of Michael Degenhart and a kid named Duy Pham (he was actually 24 at the time).

That was when Tante Louise earned AAA four-diamond and Mobil Guide four-star ratings, as well as a long long list of kudos from the press, both local and not.

Roughly fifteen years and many kitchens later, the power duo of Degenhart and Pham has teamed up again, this time with Pham in the executive role, at Epernay, the restaurant that opened at the edge of the Denver Performing Arts Center nine months ago. Epernay serves a mix of new American, sushi and French (Epernay is the champagne capital of France, after all) in its stylish digs.

This should be a great spot for before- and after-curtain snacks. But does Epernay live up to its advance billing? Find out when my review is posted at westword.com tomorrow.

Follow @CafeWestword

Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.

A message from Food & Drink Editor Molly Martin: If you value independent journalism, please consider making a contribution to support our continued coverage of Denver’s evolving dining scene and the latest culinary innovations our community offers.

Support Today