Word of Mouth

Finding paradise at El Paraiso

I was sucked into the hellish pandemonium of El Paraiso the very second I spotted the restaurant at 4690 Harlan Street, rising up beside the road in its mustard-yellow glory. Waiting for me inside was a flurry of commotion, a circus of stimulation for every sense.
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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk