Considering the Golden Age diners that occupied every table but mine, the absence of chile sauce on the table and a multi-page menu that reads like every other pedestrian Chinese menu, I didn't have high hopes for the hot and sour soup I ordered at this long-standing Chinese restaurant, but the soup, studded with pork, shrimp and shiitake mushrooms, was dually spicy and sour, and the fresh-cut ribbons of scallions provided a tempered punch of pungency.
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