First Look: A Croissant-Fueled Brunch at the New La Fillette

What: La Fillette Bakery

Where: 6217 East 14th Avenue

When: Open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

For more info: Visit lafillettebakery.com
What we saw: A sunny spring Saturday prompted a spur-of-the-moment brunch outing. It was April 1, just three days after the expanded La Fillette debuted in Montclair with a fresh brunch menu and a new focus on being a full-service eatery.

As expected, the place was buzzing. Fans of the original La Fillette in Hilltop had been without a fix for over a month, and people in the neighborhood had watched the progress while making regular grocery runs to the Safeway across the street.

There was also a bit of confusion. While the former La Fillette was a counter-service setup, this one is designed for dining in. If you're simply looking to grab some pastries, the preferred method is now to pre-order for pickup. Plenty of people got the memo, though, as a rack near the door was constantly filled with paper bags of goodies waiting to be retrieved.

Parties waiting for a table inside lingered outside on the front patio in the sunshine. The patio tables were filled with people enjoying their to-go orders. (There was no outside service available that day — not surprising, as the eatery is still staffing up, training and smoothing out the kinks that come with launching an entirely new concept).
It was a quick fifteen-minute wait for a table for two, and while the pastries and bread in the glass case near the host stand were as tempting as ever, the new full brunch menu is the real star.

On offer are the same build-your-own breakfast sandwiches that La Fillette has long been known for, with topping options like duck confit, bacon tomato jam and caramelized onions.

But now, there's so much more. You can choose from sandwiches like a banh mi with confit pork belly and a Cuban with slow-roasted pork, green chile available in a cup or a bowl, omelets, Benedicts and more, plus coffee and cocktails, too, including a Bloody Mary and mimosas.

We started with a duo of dishes. The corned beef hash ($16) comes on top of a crisp potato rosti (which is also available separately as a side) and is bolstered by Brussels sprouts and charred onion, all topped with a decadent Hollandaise.

But the sweet entree stole the show. The chocolate croissant French toast ($14) with maple syrup and an ultra-creamy white chocolate ganache is basically dessert for breakfast, and no one was complaining — including the three other tables nearby that had ordered the same thing. "Oh, wow," was all most could manage after taking a bite.
What surprised us: Our third entree — the smash burger ($16). This style of burger is definitely trending, and while the patty here isn't thin and lacy-edged like those being served at popular pop-ups like Twans Burger or the currently-on-pause Snipeburger, it has a nice char and was properly seasoned. Caramelized onions add a sweetness, and the housemade sauce is onion- and pickle-forward for the perfect tangy element.

But the real stunner here is the croissant bun. A hypnotizing swirl of buttery, flaky layers, it looks like it could just fall apart when you bite in. But somehow, it stands up to the saucy burger and provides a fully functional vessel for the whole not-as-messy-as-you'd-think burger.

"Oh, wow," once more. As the staff settles into the new location and customers get the gist of the new setup, La Fillette is poised to only get better. But even on its first weekend, it made a play for being one of the city's top brunch destinations.