Denver's Pastry Scene Is Hot, and Now Bakers Have Formed a Co-Op

The hottest thing in Denver this summer? It’s not the weather, but the pastry scene. The city has seen multiple pastry chefs start concepts, often from pandemic pivots, and now several bakeries are even rumored to be on the Michelin Guide short list. Need further evidence? Altamira, a Colorado and New Mexico-based specialty food distributor, has been fielding double the number of calls for Bob’s Red Mill flour as compared to last year.

In celebration and support of the industry, members of the pastry community came together on August 15 for the launch of the 5280 Pastry Co-op. The inaugural meeting was held in Wheat Ridge, on the rooftop of GetRight's, a bakery that debuted in May.

Almost immediately, conversations sparked over the collective pains and joys of working in pastry. “It’s so nice to meet you! I follow you on Instagram,” was overheard a few times as pastry chefs who have only admired each other’s work from afar finally met in person.

Steering the co-op are six boardmembers: Brielle Fratellone (executive pastry chef at Gaylord Rockies Resort), Matt Quinlisk (owner of Hearth Bakery), Joy Williams-Clark (culinary operations at Edible Beats), Garret Meyer (sales consultant at Altamira), Brooke Hammond (Denver’s sales manager for Valrhona Chocolate) and Jeff Jones (sales consultant at Altamira).

Both founders of Black Box Bakery were in attendance, as were representatives from Dry Storage, David Right of Right Cream, Gaby Navas from Citizen Rail, Jessica La Forge of God Save the Cream, Margaret Maker of Ms. Margaret Maker, and dozens of other pastry chefs and bakers from many of the city's tastiest bakeries. Chefs traded stories, passed around contacts for their suppliers, asked for advice about equipment and commiserated on the difficulty of sourcing organic spelt berries.

This kind of networking and connection is exactly what the boardmembers envisioned when they thought of the idea to launch Denver’s first pastry co-op. Prior to working at the Gaylord, Fratellone lived in South Florida for ten years and was a Cocoa Berry ambassador. “They brought all these pastry chefs worldwide and nationwide together, and I met these twenty other amazing pastry chefs across the country," she recalls. "Having this group to reach out to and ask these questions was so incredibly useful, and I felt very connected to a community. ... I saw an opportunity to do this a little differently [in Denver] and expand it past that chocolate element.”

Adds Hammond, “Of all of the different events I've put on in Denver since starting, the number-one feedback I have is how nice it is to be out of your kitchen, interacting with other people who are in a kitchen, and realizing that what you love and your annoyances are the same,” she said to the chuckling crowd. “You're not crazy. It's the industry, and it's nice to hear it from other people in your same shoes.”

Pastry in any environment is challenging, but pastry chefs in Denver face even greater obstacles with tackling high-altitude baking, labor shortages and staff attrition. “I talk to chefs on a daily basis, and it’s the same stories everywhere you go,” explains Meyer. “It’s a struggle to find people, it’s a problem with transportation. ... Whatever the story is, we’ve heard them all, and [with the co-op], we could get more people that are like-minded together and help fill in those gaps for when you are having a challenging day.”
Quinlisk spoke on the importance of having a mentor in the industry while remembering his: Andy Clark of Moxie Bread Company, who passed away last November. Quinlisk said that Clark was a “sounding board with someone who’s worked in the industry for twenty years and has different perspectives and has just so much knowledge to give. When you look around this patio, there’s so much knowledge, no question. You can ask anything pastry-related or business-related, whether it’s sourcing or whatever, and someone here could answer.”

The need for this kind of community definitely exists. As Williams-Clark remembers, when she was growing up in Denver, “Bonnie Brae and Liks were your only two ice cream shops. There was only one Italian restaurant that was worth going to, [and now we have this] amazing food scene,” she says. “A personal goal for me is to shift our industry and create amazing programs that promote mentorship and learning and bring up our next generation of pastry chefs.”

During the event, the boardmembers were asked for feedback on how they could support the attendees. Some ideas that the board was eager to implement included hosting a private forum for members to chat, as well as hands-on demonstrations, including a scheduled chocolate demonstration with chef Gonzo Jimenez of Miette et Chocolat.

But most attendees agreed that just being able to network and meet other pastry chefs was an incredibly helpful experience. For anyone interested in joining, membership is free and limited to pastry professionals. The best way to stay updated on upcoming events is to follow the 5280pastryco_op Instagram page.

With the rapidly growing pastry scene in Denver, 5280 Pastry Co-op hopes to be able to do whatever it can to make Denver a destination for the best bakeries, pastry chefs and bakers. Some, like Jones, think the city has already risen to the top. “I’m fortunate enough to travel to food shows across the world, to France, to New York, to Chicago, to San Francisco,” Jones said, “and Denver’s pastry scene per capita is better than all of them. It’s crazy. You guys put out some of the best pastries I’ve ever seen.”