Short Stop: Flaming Saganaki at Lookin' Good Restaurant & Lounge

Denver's dining scene is making a big comeback — and we're hungering to go out. With so many new ventures and old favorites to visit after more than a year of restaurant shutdowns and restrictions, the choices can be overwhelming. So we're serving up Short Stop, with recommendations for things that should definitely be on your culinary short list. This week, head to Lookin' Good.

What: Lookin' Good Restaurant & Lounge

Where: 66 Sheridan Boulevard

When: Open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily

For more info: Visit lookingoodrestaurant.com
The place: With the recent closure of the Breakfast King, Denver lost one of its beloved greasy spoons. As the number of old-school diners in the city continues to dwindle (R.I.P. to the Denver Diner and Tom's Diner, among others), we've been revisiting some of the city's remaining classics — including Lookin' Good, which has been open since 1978. The interior of the restaurant is large and open with high ceilings, and the main dining room is sparsely decorated with a whole lot of brown and tan accents. This spot isn't trying to be trendy.

Instead, it's all about down-home, casual comfort. There's a row of chairs along a counter facing the kitchen, with plenty of tables and booths scattered throughout. And at a recent weeknight dinner, the place was quiet, with just a handful of other tables occupied.

The menu is filled with American, Mexican and Greek options for breakfast (which is served all day), lunch and dinner; this spot also has a full bar. "The items with photos are our most popular," a server explained, flipping through pages and calling out some recommendations, including the gyro sandwich served with thick-cut fries ($13.95). Lookin' Good is also one of the few spots in town that serves a unique Denver creation: the Toro Pot, a combination of ground beef and potatoes inside a flour tortilla, smothered in green chile ($13.95). But while the bulk of the menu is typical diner fare (done well, and dependably), there's no debate over how your meal should start.
What you're eating: Flaming saganaki ($12.95). Listed on the menu under the appetizers section as simply saganaki, it's described as "kefalotyri cheese dipped in batter and fried golden to a crisp" — but that's not exactly accurate.

Instead of some deep-fried, mozzarella stick-like presentation, the saganaki here is served the traditional Greek way. A thick round of salty, Greek cheese is brought out on a metal skillet. Then, after a carefully measured pour of brandy is added (not too much, to avoid a larger-than-intended flame), the cheese ignites with a boisterous "Opa!" from your server.

To quell the flames, lemon is squeezed on top before the whole bubbling skillet is placed on your table with a side of pita. (Pro tip: Ask for double the pita so you've got just the right amount for shoveling up the warm, caramelized cheese.)

Warm cheese isn't exactly a culinary innovation, but it is a crowd-pleaser. And the bonus of dinner and a brief show — with the small possibility of danger — makes for a fun outing with a group of friends. If you're looking for a low-key dose of comfort food from an old-school spot, Lookin' Good has just what you're craving.

Opa!