That was then. This is now. And things are different today --- as evidenced most obviously by the coming of a place like Mikuni Sushi to the Denver area. This sushi chain comes out of California, and seems to pride itself on offering a version of Japanese cuisine in general (and sushi in particular) that is broad, but shallow. Which makes Mikuni a good place for sushi amateurs or those still not sure whether they really want to be eating raw fish for dinner. As for the pros? Well, read this week's review and decide for yourself.

Also this week, I pay a visit to the newest location of the Denver operation that sorta started the whole-sushi-for-rookies thing, Hapa. It'd been years since I'd set foot inside one of the Hapa locations, and I was surprised to find how much my opinion of the place had changed.

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