Top Chef Alum Byron Gomez Brings Casual Costa Rican Dining to Boulder

Winter is rapidly approaching. Fortunately, the newest concept at Avanti in Boulder invites diners to escape south via vibrant flavors from Costa Rican chef Byron Gomez, who opened Pollo Tico on November 2.

Gomez’s culinary journey starts with humble beginnings. Born in Costa Rica, he immigrated to Long Island at the age of eight. As a teenager, he felt his academic prospects were limited due to his undocumented status, and a stint at Burger King helped shape his desire to work with his hands.

After graduating from high school, Gomez moved to the Bronx with less than a thousand dollars to his name. Ready to venture beyond fast food, he took to the kitchen of a small family-owned restaurant, where he learned a myriad of new techniques — making curries, cooking with a tandoor oven and baking naan. During that time, he came across a Craigslist ad for a kitchen position under the famed French chef Daniel Boulud. “It took me about a month to apply,” Gomez says, remembering the apprehension he felt regarding his credentials. Fortunately, he came to recognize the transitional effect the opportunity could have on his career.

Gomez worked for Boulud for five years, and the distinguished chef became his mentor, instilling diligence within the young cook while inspiring him to test the limits of his creativity and skill. “I remember one thing Daniel always told me,” Gomez recalls: “‘If you want to be the best, you’ve got to work with the best.’” This mantra resonated deeply with Gomez, fueling his ascent to jobs at some of the top restaurants in the country.
In 2017, he was working as the sous chef at New York City’s Eleven Madison Park when the three-Michelin-starred establishment was awarded the number-one spot atop the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Gomez spent several seasons traveling with the EMP culinary team, opening pop-up concepts in the Hamptons and Aspen. The Colorado scenery and lifestyle had a tremendous impact on him, and he moved west in 2019, accepting a position as the executive chef of 7908, a now-shuttered supper club in Aspen. When COVID forced dining room closures, Gomez seized the opportunity to test his talents on a new stage — this time in front of cameras and judges on Top Chef.

Pollo Tico represents an exciting new chapter in Gomez’s career, as he embarks upon chef-ownership for the first time. He has spent the last two years reflecting on his cultural and ancestral roots — examining how his past has shaped his present, and carving out a niche for himself in the culinary world.

Pollo Tico is an expression of his immigrant story. He is ecstatic to cook food that reflects multiple facets of himself; Gomez wants to inspire curiosity among the patrons of his new fast-casual concept. He has pivoted outside the realm of fine dining, immersing himself within the Boulder community, serving food that is inclusive and accessible for anyone to try.

As the name suggests, Pollo Tico’s menu features Costa Rican chicken ("tico" is a nickname for a native of Costa Rica). If you peer over the counter, you might catch a glimpse of the bronzed birds slowly spinning in the rotisserie oven. The process starts with whole birds that are treated to a 24-hour bath in a garlic- and citrus-spiced brine. The chicken is then air-dried prior to cooking to ensure a delightfully crisp skin.
Before hitting the rotisserie, the birds are slathered with Costa Rica’s national condiment, Salsa Lizano, a tangy sauce made from vegetables, molasses and spices. The glaze caramelizes slowly during cooking, resulting in an incredibly savory and complexly flavored entree. The chickens are served in both half and quarter portions, accompanied by a choice of side ($14-$18.50).

Tender morsels of pulled meat make an appearance throughout the menu in comforting favorites such as arroz con pollo ($15.50) and as a topping on the patacón — fried plantain layered with red cabbage, pickled vegetables and a mild amarillo chile sauce ($13.50). For an additional $5, chicken can also be added to the two (otherwise vegetarian) salad options ($12). Both salads include unique components such as pickled pineapple, hearts of palm and requesón — a creamy fresh cheese.

A selection of stellar side dishes round out the menu. Not to be missed is the fried yuca ($4), chunky cuts of the starchy root vegetable that are deep-fried until golden brown, seasoned generously with salt and served with a zingy salsa verde.

Gallo pinto is perhaps the side that best represents the foundation of Costa Rican cuisine ($4). Costa Ricans often consume the traditional combination of rice and beans at multiple meals throughout the day. Black beans are stewed for hours while white rice is cooked separately, then completely chilled, resulting in fluffy individual grains that are finally stir-fried in pork fat alongside red peppers, onions and the cooked beans. Gomez emphasizes the complexity of the dish’s preparation, despite its simple ingredients. “There is a technique behind it,” he says, acknowledging the process. “These are different rice and beans.”
Pollo Tico’s menu is presented in Spanglish, an intentional nod to the two cultures that have shaped Gomez’s identity. The item descriptions are dotted with ingredients that may be unfamiliar to diners — another intentional choice the chef has made as he aims to highlight authentic Costa Rican cuisine.

Gomez is taking this educational approach beyond the confines of his kitchen, as well. In 2014, he was granted status and employment authorization through the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals program (DACA). This life-changing event has had a monumental effect on the upward trajectory of his career. Today, DACA remains in the news as it undergoes continued litigation in top U.S. courts. Gomez is vocal in sharing his immigration experience; he hopes to raise awareness around the importance of DACA, promoting his story as a prime example of the positive effect the program has had on a generation of immigrants.

Gomez’s positive mindset and engaging personality are contagious. His courage, resilience and discipline are reflected in both his story and his extraordinary food, so head over to Pollo Tico, grab an Imperial beer from the bar and experience a little pura vida right here on the Front Range.

Pollo Tico is located on the ground floor of Avanti at 1401 Pearl Street in Boulder and is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. For more information, visit boulder.avantifandb.com.