Sarto's streamlined interior is a hit, but the food is not as successful.
Sarto's streamlined interior is a hit, but the food is not as successful.
Danielle Lirette

Reader: Italian food Is All About Simplicity...Which I Didn't Find at Sarto's

One of the thrills of a dining scene as mature as Denver’s is that chefs who could helm destination restaurants reach out to neighbors instead, Gretchen Kurtz writes in her recent review of Sarto's. But so far chef-partner Brian Laird's food at Sarto's is less straightforward than its mission of creating a "community-driven eatery," she says.

And FrancoMarini agrees with that review.

Very well written.

I was born, grew up and went to school in Parma, Italy so I'm always on the search of a good Italian spot. Our group sat at the chef's counter, we tasted quite a few dishes and all I can say is that the food at Sarto's is a very confusing mishmash of too many ingredients, complicated and disjointed flavors —  exactly the opposite of what true Italian cuisine is supposed to be. The pasta that we tasted had a watery, metallic-tasting sauce that not even the chef could explain, the fish was overcooked, the sweetbreads tasted very bitter like they had not been cleaned properly. We left very disappointed. Italian food is all about simplicity and proper execution...which, sadly, we didn't find here. 

Have you eaten at Sarto's? If so, what did you think of the food there? What's your recommendation for a good Italian spot in Denver?

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories


All-access pass to top stories, events and offers around town.

Sign Up >

No Thanks!

Remind Me Later >