Review: Range Brings a Taste of the Mild, Wild West to Downtown Denver

Range 918 17th Street 720-726-4800 Like the Great American West implied by its name, Range is a place with big ambitions. These are hinted at in the shiny metallic banquettes (gold fever?) and the walnut communal tables sized in anticipation of crowds. They're also implicit in the fact that Range, which opened this spring in the new Renaissance Denver City Center Hotel in the historic Colorado National Bank building, was built with two entrances: one off the soaring lobby, with its mural-covered walls and marble columns, and a second off Champa Street. "Range is played as an independent restaurant," says executive chef Paul Nagan, a twenty-year veteran who's spent his entire career in hotel eateries and knows their intricacies well. "It's refreshing to have that independent feel."

See also: Behind the Scenes at Range

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz