Second Helping

Keep Westword Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Denver and help keep the future of Westword free.

10920 South Parker Road, Parker

The two restaurants in the mini-empire of Yume Tran and Jeff Nghiem are almost exact opposites. Where Sapa is sprawling, Indochine is tiny. Sapa is meditative, Indochine is cozy. And while Sapa's interior is cool and green, Indochine is all black lacquer and tapestries.

The restaurants both specialize in Vietnamese and Thai cuisine from the Vietnamese hill country, smartly translated and perfectly prepared. But I like the menu at the two-year-old Indochine a little bit better, since it offers a few more street-food dishes in place of Sapa's more expensive specials, as well as a couple of additional curries and an amazing board of appetizers. There's shrimp mousse, steamed on sugarcane, then deep-fried; baked mushrooms stuffed with salmon eggs and fake crab; huge bowls of pho; green papaya salad tossed with garlic, lime juice and tomatoes. I burned my fingers eating the shrimp cakes -- fat, meaty, golden-brown, and fresh out of the oil. And the garlic pork with vegetables was so deeply infused with minced garlic that it was almost sweet.

All of the food at Indochine is wonderful and shows the kind of care that restaurants four times its size rarely bother to muster. Even more amazing, all of it comes out of a galley no bigger than the walk-in closets of some customers.

Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.


Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.