Session Kitchen has changed its concept; was it worth the wait?

In this day of splashy restaurant openings, immediate Yelp reviews and a culture of dining that rewards the latest new thing, I'm often asked why I wait three months to review a restaurant. After all, by the time that period has elapsed, a certain subset of diners has already made up its mind about the place, logged thoughts on social media, and moved on to the next new thing.

Snap judgments, however, are hardly representative of a restaurant's potential, and Session Kitchen, which I review this week, is a good reminder why.

See also: Humboldt is a solid neighborhood restaurant -- with no Strings attached

If I had reviewed this restaurant when it opened last fall, I would've written about a place with stunning décor, intriguing food, and a semi-frustrating concept called "sessions," with dishes sized and priced for the number of people who wanted them. The place was clearly reaching for the stars -- and falling short.

So Breckenridge-Wynkoop, the group behind Session Kitchen, did what restaurateurs usually do, which is to wait a few months, then reevaluate how things are going. What dishes need to go? What parts of the menu need clarifying? Where does staff need extra training? In Session Kitchen's case, the answers led to a restaurant that's very different from when it first opened.

Find out what tweaks were made, and how the restaurant is doing as it has settled in, when my review is posted here tomorrow.

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz