Smokehouse17 Opens in Denver's Uptown Neighborhood | Westword

Barbecue Comes to Uptown From a Familiar Restaurateur

The owner of Sushi Ronin and Izakaya Ronin brings barbecue to Uptown.
Smokehouse 17 is now open on East 17th Avenue.
Smokehouse 17 is now open on East 17th Avenue. Mark Antonation
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Chef/restaurateur Alex Gurevich ran his Peruvian eatery, Limón, successfully for nearly ten years at 1612 East 17th Avenue. But since closing it back in 2015, success has been a little harder to come by. Gurevich's Southern eatery, Bread N Butter, took over for two years in early 2016, and then the Knotty Neighbor, under different ownership, lasted only a few months in 2019.

But Gurevich says he's taking the address back with Smokehouse17, which opened to the neighborhood on Friday, September 6. The focus is barbecue, but the restaurateur says he's got a secret weapon to differentiate his restaurant's smoked  meats: wagyu brisket. He found a supplier on the Western Slope that produces wagyu beef in very limited quantities and who was selling nearly all of the animal except the brisket.

Unlike many barbecue joints that open for lunch and stay open until the meats sell out, Smokehouse17 is open for dinner only, shifting the cooking cycle a little. "The brisket can take twelve or thirteen hours to cook," Gurevich explains, so he's brought on chef Adrian Foster, most recently of Root Down, to handle the smoking responsibilities.

The restaurant also specializes in Colorado-sourced smoked chicken, as well as pork shoulder, belly, spareribs and housemade hot links. Meats can be ordered by weight or in sandwiches, and the menu also offers smoked salmon and portabello mushrooms. Sides include green chile mac and cheese, bleu cheese potato salad, bourbon baked beans and banana pudding. Gurevich notes that the style isn't specific to any one region, but the use of a dry rub is the common thread. An extensive bourbon list and bourbon-based cocktails, some batched and barrel-aged, add to the draw.

Gurevich also owns Sushi Ronin and Izakaya Ronin, the latter of which recently closed in the Industry building on Brighton Boulevard, but he's in the process of reopening the hip Japanese eatery in a new build in Lowry, and he's also looking at another location on South Broadway. Down south, he recently opened 47 Ronin at 1525 Park Central Drive in Highlands Ranch, which specializes in sushi hand rolls but also serves a full sushi menu similar to the roster at the original Ronin.

Smokehouse17 is open nightly from 4 p.m. Visit the restaurant's website for a full menu.
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