New Thai Restaurant in Uptown Is Not Like the Others

"I'm just so excited, I might cry," says Orrapan Botthaisong as she stands behind the bar at her new restaurant, Som Dee Thai Kitchen, which celebrated its grand opening at 1598 East 17th Avenue on December 7 after more than a year of delays.

Botthaisong moved to Denver from Thailand to attend school a decade ago; she had just $300 to her name and very little experience speaking English. Now she's the owner of two businesses.

In 2022, she debuted La Mai Thai Kitchen in Edgewater. Named for her mother, it leans more casual and has become a popular option for takeout and delivery in the neighborhood.

"I want this to be more of a special occasion, date-night place," she says of Som Dee, which is named after her father. Botthaisong first announced plans for the restaurant, which took over a former Paxti's location, last December; she expected to open by the end of summer. Her parents even flew out from Thailand in August for the occasion. But permitting delays — a common complaint from restaurateurs trying to open in Denver — pushed that date back.

Despite the stress and sleepless nights, Botthaisong looks forward to welcoming her parents to her new spot in 2025. "My dad said, 'Don't worry about it, you'll still be open in a year,'" she says, and we're hoping he's right.

Because Som Dee is a gorgeous addition to the neighborhood.
What we saw: A lot of care went into the design of Som Dee, which has been completely transformed from its pizza-joint past. Eye-catching lighting fixtures from Thailand hang above cozy booths and dark tables, and wood accents and pops of red lighting give the place a moody vibe. A framed photo of Botthaisong's parents hangs at the end of the entryway. "They said the picture should be larger," she jokes.

After settling into one of the comfy velvet stools lining the bar, I'm served a blue drink that's meant to cleanse the palate and prepare for the "bold flavors" of the food, explains the bartender, whom Botthaisong brought here from Thailand to create drinks that complement the cuisine.

It's a non-alcoholic beverage made with Laotian tea, butterfly pea flower for color and lemongrass. Each diner will get this complimentary starter through the end of the month — maybe longer, if it proves popular.
It was a lovely welcome, followed by some boozy selections including the favorite of the night, the Manhanakhon Sky, a gin-based drink with flavors of passion fruit and yuzu.

Some items from the food menu will look familiar to fans of La Mai, like the chicken wings inspired by Botthaisong's grandmother's recipe and the signature pad Thai. There are also staples common at most other Thai eateries in town, like the rich, creamy and vibrant green curry, and khao soi — though here, you can order the Northern Thai staple with a choice of steamed or crispy chicken, coconut shrimp or soft-shell crab.
What surprised us: While there are many other options for Thai food in the area, most lean more fast-casual and stick to the dishes that are most popular among American diners. But with Som Dee, Botthaisong is ready to take some risks.

She wants to give local diners a new perspective on Thai food by rotating in lesser-known specialties and educating hungry patrons along the way about the different regions of the country, and the flavors and techniques that make this food stand out — and she's doing that with a full-service, upscale model.
The atmosphere she's created does indeed feel just right for date night, and the food is stellar across the board, from the crispy Heatwave Shrimp served with a spicy, vibrant green sauce to the tender chicken satay. Two standouts among the entrees are the Spaghetti Kee Mao Scallop, a dish that is one of Botthaisong's favorite meals, and the Som Dee Steak crusted in toasted sticky rice and served with tangy jaew sauce, which is modeled after one of her father's go-to's.

A great space, friendly staff and tasty food sounds like a recipe for success for most restaurants, right?

"But sooooo pricey," was the first reply I got on Instagram after posting about the soft opening. That's a sentiment other spots offering elevated takes on cuisine often considered "cheap" have to battle all the time.

Chef Penelope Wong has gone so far as to break down the price of her dumplings at Yuan Wonton, explaining the hours that go into making each one by hand.

The duck taco at nearby Xiquita is $14 — admittedly steep compared to a typical taco joint, but completely in line with (if not cheaper than) any other fine-dining duck dish, which is essentially what it is.
Just because someone is used to paying $15 for a Thai takeout entree doesn't mean a spot trying to offer a more elevated experience for a few bucks more should be judged on price alone.

While a meal here will cost more than at a typical fast-casual joint, the prices align with more upscale spots in the neighborhood. Most of Som Dee's entrees range from $19-$22; the steak is the most expensive at $38. Down the street at Ace Eat Serve, dishes from the noodle and rice section of the menu are $18-$24. Even at the much more casual Revival Denver Public House, large plates are priced between $22-$28. At Atelier by Radex, the charbroiled filet with bourbon demi-glace rings in at $39.50.

When dining out, it's often true that you get what you pay for. If you're looking for a quick bite to take home, then spots like Tommy's Thai and Swing Thai are a few bucks cheaper and will do the trick.

But for a night out that feels special, consider giving Som Dee a try.

Some Dee Thai Kitchen is located at 1598 East 17th Avenue and is open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For more information, visit somdeethaikitchen.com.