Lunch Break: Urban Cafe Serves Persian Fare Alongside Sandwiches and Pizza

While some people are still working from home, many are back in the office, which means the lunch break is making a big comeback, too. For those working near downtown, options for a solid meal at a good price from a local spot are getting easier to come by. This week, try the Persian specialties at Urban Cafe.

What: Urban Cafe & Restaurant

Where: 601 Broadway, on the ground floor of the Denver Health building

When: Open 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday and 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday

For more info: Visit urbancafedenver.com
Why we love it: In 2020, then-Westword Food and Drink Editor Mark Antonation wrote about a spot serving Persian food from a tent in a parking lot on Santa Fe. "It was too small and we did not have a good lease, so we closed it up," says Frey Asgari, who was the owner of Ladan's.

Now Asgari and those Persian dishes are back at another unexpected location — a space connected to the Denver Health building at Broadway and Sixth Avenue. Asgari opened the bright and airy cafe in late December, and it's been a welcome addition for Denver Health employees and the public alike (there's a parking lot right off Broadway, so it's easy to pop in for a quick bite).

Even when the line gets long during the lunch rush, it moves quickly thanks to the self-ordering system, and most of the food comes out fast. Breakfast is available from 7 to 11 a.m., with options such as smoothies, burritos and breakfast sandwiches. There is also a full pastry case and coffee lineup. From 11 a.m. until 8 p.m., the menu shifts to include personal-sized pizzas, salads, sandwiches and two chef's selections. 
What's for lunch: If you're with a group or just like snacking for a meal, a starter section offers several shareable options including hummus, which comes in a very generous portion with toasted pita for just $6.

At $10 each, the small pizzas are a nice lunch deal, and the toppings options lean toward the unusual: Cheesy Eggplant with walnuts, sun-dried tomatoes, basil, green onions and house tomato sauce; Steak & Herb with creamy garlic sauce; and Garden Chicken with creamy garlic sauce, walnuts, basil, sun-dried tomatoes and tarragon.

Sandwiches range from $10 to $15; on a recent visit, the typically $12 Koobideh was on special for $10. Built on soft and chewy bread from a local bakery, it's loaded with a kabob-inspired beef patty plus lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles. Another sandwich standout is the $15 Creamy Pistachio Mortadella, with creamy burrata, chopped pistachios and pistachio cream cheese on focaccia. It's an indulgent lunch option that's still light enough to make it easy(ish) to go back to work.
The pair of Persian dishes under the chef's selection part of the menu may take a little longer to prepare, but they're worth the short wait. One is Ghormeh Sabzi ($16), described as "an herb rich stew served with saffron-infused basmati rice" that contains "lamb, kidney beans, greens such as leeks and spinach, plus fresh herbs such as cilantro, parsley and fenugreek and a bit of dried lime powder."

We sampled the Zereshk Polo ($14), which includes a heaping plate of saffron-infused basmati rice topped with pistachios and almonds, which add a bit of crunch, and barberries for pops of sweetness. The tender, slow-cooked chicken in a mildly spiced tomato sauce is served in a separate bowl, as is a side of creamy yogurt-based sauce. This is pure comfort food, and the serving is big enough to take home leftovers.
Beyond the pastry case, the dessert offerings include one must-order: the Persian ice cream float. The Persian ice cream itself, which is also available by the scoop, is infused with saffron, rose and bits of clotted cream and has a sprinkle of pistachios on top. Instead of soda, though, it's submerged in fresh carrot juice for the float. The result is a light, only slightly sweet cold treat. "Once you try this, you’ll be hooked!" the menu promises — and we agree.