You can taste the result on Vesta's weekly Market Menu, which Kayser rewrites every Wednesday based on what's available and delicious. Early-season items like baby fennel, young greens, radishes and foraged morel mushrooms have recently given way to mid-summer zucchini, sweet corn and blueberries, for example.
But throughout the year, Kayser and his Vesta team turn the abundance of each season into preserved foods that find their way onto plates weeks or months after they've disappeared from market stalls and farm fields. So a mid-July dinner gets a boost from pickled ramps (whose brief season ended when the hotter days of June and July hit), fennel gastrique (a sweet-and-sour preserve made with equal parts vinegar and sugar) and mushroom conserva.

Chef Nick Kayser turned zucchini into a succulent summer salad highlighted with pickled ramps and fennel gastrique at Vesta.
Mark Antonation
Produce suppliers for the Market Menu, as well as for the regular summer menu, include Acres at Warren Tech, Esoterra Farms, Altius Farms, Ela Farms, the Denver Botanic Gardens, the Growhaus and Mile High Fungi. So you don't have to stick with the Market Menu to experience Colorado's best fruits and vegetables — even a dish of baby octopus from faraway shores gets a Colorado touch with new potatoes and fava beans — but it's a light and refreshing way to experience a downtown favorite that just keeps getting better even after more than twenty years in business.
Visit Vesta at 1822 Blake Street from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call 303-296-1970 or go to the restaurant's website for details and reservations.