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Part of it, explains Lawson, is that pit masters have to make their own sauce. Jabo's makes 25 kinds, with six on offer at any time. Plus, you get a tasting tray if you're not sure -- and the kitchen will customize the sauce to your liking.
The other secret is in the wood. Watch the video below to see which wood Lawson uses to give his meats a taste of the Deep South.