The croissant at Les Delices are excellent — buttery, flaky, crisp and puffed just right so they collapse against the teeth almost before you bite into them. The brioche are delicious, the tartellet like tiny fruit jewel boxes. And owners Gerard and Christelle Donat certainly know their way around the big-ticket items — the cakes and display pieces. But for our money, the best way to celebrate the dawning of a new day is with one of the bakery's sugar-glazed, impossibly bittersweet citron tarts and a cream Napoleon, a completely impractical construct of flaky mille-feuille, pastry cream and sugar that's so good you'll be inspired to get up early just so you can get to Les Delices before they're all gone.