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OG Denver Dumpling Spot Lao Wang Announces Upcoming Closure

There's still time to get a final fix of potstickers and soup dumplings, and still hope that this place could live on...
Image: exterior of a strip mall restaurant
Lao Wang has been open since 1999. Molly Martin
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Denver's in the midst of a dumpling explosion, but long before spots like Nana's, Bryan's and Yuan Wonton joined the scene, Tse-Ming and Chun-Ming Wang brought potstickers and soup dumplings to a small strip-mall space on South Federal Boulevard.

One of our picks for the Top 100 Restaurants in the metro area, Lao Wang Noodle House has racked up plenty of fans since it opened in December 1999. But its 25-year-run is coming to an end soon: Lao Wang's last day will be Saturday, February 15.

The Wangs were part of a migratory wave that fled the Communist Party in mainland China and set up shop in Taiwan in the 1940s. In 1985, they brought their young son, Danny, to Colorado, where they worked in restaurants in Loveland before sinking their savings into their own place.

Over the years, Lao Wang has become known not just for its food, but for the often feisty nature of its owners — who have always been quick to enforce ground rules such as no second orders, no split checks and no seating yourself.
steamer basket of soup dumplings
Mama Wang is quick to remind diners to eat the soup dumplings right away for an optimal experience.
Molly Martin
The couple ran the bare-bones spot together for years. But when the pandemic hit, Danny stepped in to help modernize the place a little, temporarily adding online ordering to help the business get by.

When Tse-Ming passed away in 2021 at the age of 76, some fans worried about the future of the restaurant. But it carried on under the watchful eye of Chun-Ming, who often runs the place solo, though Danny and his partner, Frances Tietje-Wang, help as needed while balancing their own work outside of the restaurant industry.

With the lease coming up for renewal, though, Danny and his mom, whom he calls "the matriarch of the Denver dumpling scene," decided it was time to move on. "She's 84 this year," he notes. "Looking at where Mom is with her health, it's tough for her, and there's only so much we can do with two or three of us."

On the other hand, he notes that his mother "enjoys being busy," and says he's hoping that news of the closure may "spark a conversation about how this can keep going. We want to make sure her and dad's legacy and dedication to serving people is honored. If anyone has ideas, I'm interested in hearing it. ... Hopefully, we have a project for her soon."
plate of potstickers
Lao Wang's signature potstickers.
Molly Martin
In the meantime, Danny and his mom are expecting a boost in business as word spreads of the closure. "It's just two or three of us, be patient," he reminds diners. During its final weeks, Lao Wang will not offer takeout and will be strict about not seating incomplete parties. "We need to be reasonable about it, and if we run out of things, we run out," Danny says.

"We've seen kids grow up, now they come in as adults," he continues. "It's like losing family, and it sucks. But we're leaving with good memories."

Lao Wang is located at 945 South Federal Boulevard; through February 15, it's slated to be open from 11:30 to 2 p.m. and 6 to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, and from noon to 2 p.m. Sunday (though hours may vary). For more information, visit lwnoodlehouse.com.