Guess where I’m eating?

First, there were the white trash enchiladas at the Rio Grande, followed by the white trash au gratin potatoes at Simms Steakhouse, which, to complement those scene-stealing views of Denver’s skyline, now has a menu (and a chef in Moosah Reaume, formerly of Willie G’s Seafood & Steak) that just might give us city snobs a reason to cross the suburban threshold.

But before you do that, you need to pinpoint the location of today’s white trash french fries, a splendidly large basket of hand-cut, thin tubers swizzled with cheese sauce and topped with chopped bacon and scallions. And ranch dressing…if you want it.

Bet you can’t eat just one.