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No. 54: Marrow Bone Brûlée at Mercantile Dining & Provision
1701 Wynkoop Street Denver
720-460-3733
When a server delivers a plate and the predominant feature is a big, split-open femur, it can be a little intimidating. There’s no meat, just a scattering of greens and few dabs of sauce, but the rich aroma of beef lets you know you’ve made the right decision; the flame-kissed marrow inside the cross-cut of bone glistens with fat, just on the verge of melting entirely. As with the rest of the menu at Mercantile, the dish comes with seasonal touches that brighten the unctuous marrow; the winter incarnation comes with blood orange, shaved fennel and oxtail marmalade.
See also: 100 Favorite Dishes: 48-Hour Short Ribs at Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery
Chef de cuisine Matt Vawter says there are several steps to creating each element of the plate. The marrow bones are iced for 24 hours and then brined in a solution that includes white wine vinegar before being roasted to order. Just before service, the marrow gets a light sprinkling of sugar that’s hit with a torch, just like Crème brûlée, adding a hint of caramelized sweetness. Blood orange segments are cooked down in sugar until they take on a jammy texture, while The oxtail marmalade is made from the meat of braised oxtails gets shredded and blended with cooked down shallots.
Last season’s presentation included bacon jam and paper thin radish slices on a plate dotted with house mustard, but no matter what the accompaniments, Mercantile’s marrow is a mouthwatering and meaty butter substitute when spooned onto chewy slices of lightly grilled bread. Or just eat it straight from the bone, spooned up with little bites of the sweet and tart sides.
In advance of the Best of Denver 2015, we’re loading our plates with contenders for the best dishes in the city. And over the next few months, we’ll be sharing many of them with you, counting down (in no particular order) one hundred of our favorite dishes before the the Best of Denver 2015 hits the streets on March 26. In the meantime, if there’s a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at cafe@westword.com.
Hungry for more? All the dishes in our 2014 countdown are linked below.
No. 100: Chile Relleno at La Fiesta
No. 99: Gurage Kitfo at Megenagna Ethiopian Restaurant
No. 98: Cochinita Pibil at Work & Class
No. 97: The Greggers Tongue Sandwich at Olive & Finch
No 96: Baum Cakes at Glaze by Sasa
No. 95: Goat hot pot from Viet’s
No 94: Head cheese from Beast + Bottle
No. 93: Kettle Chips from Amerigo Delicatus
No. 92: Pork Belly Confit at Solera Restaurant and Wine Bar
No. 91: Tacos Campechanos from La Calle Taqueria
No. 90: Biscuits from Denver Biscuit Co.
No. 89: Clams and Chorizo at Gozo
No. 88: Aburi Sushi at Sushi Den and Izakaya Den
No. 87: Kimchi and Sausage Torta at City, O’ City
No. 86: Mar y Tierra Molcajete at Paxia
No. 85: Crispy Pork Spare Ribs at Table Top
No. 84: Chips and Dip at Euclid Hall
No. 83: Chile Relleno Burrito at El Taco de Mexico
No. 82: Scallop Crudo at Stoic & Genuine
No. 81: Ceylon Curry Dosa at Khazana
No. 80: The Lambada Torta at La Torteria
No. 79: Pork Bulgogi at Dae Gee
No. 78: the Pulled Pork Pig Pen Sandwich at Boney’s
No. 77: IPA Mac & Cheese at Hops & Pie
No. 76: Chiles en Nogada at Chili Verde
No. 75: Udon Noodle Bowl at Bones
No. 74: Cinnamon Rolls at the Duffeyroll Cafe
No. 73: Smoked Turkey Croque-Madame at Acorn
No. 72: Pickled Lake Michigan Perch at Trillium
No. 71: Oysters at Jax Fish House Glendale
No. 70: Venezuelan Tostadas at Empanada Express Grill
No. 69: Tahini Cauliflower from Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs
No. 68: The Ham and Cheese Tartita from Maria Empanada
No. 67: Ronnie’s Favorite from Rosenberg’s Bagels and Deli
No. 66: Shoo-fly Pie from the Long i Pie Shop
No. 65: Czech Potato Pancakes at Sobo 151
No. 64: Fried Chicken at the Post Brewing Co.
No. 63: Braised Brisket Sandwich at Masterpiece Delicatessen
No. 62: The Scotch Egg from Argyll Whisky Beer
No. 61: Butternut Squash Ravioli at DiFranco’s
No. 60: Sesame Balls at Vinh Xuong Bakery
No. 59: Curry Puffs at Suvipa Thai Food
No. 58: Diavola Pizza at Pizzeria Locale
No. 57: Chorizo Breakfast Stew at DJ’s 9th Avenue Cafe
No. 56: The Rare Beast Sandwich at Salt & Grinder
No. 55: 48-Hour Short Ribs at Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery
