Who Needs a Carbone When We Have Florence Supper Club

Is Washington Park turning into Denver’s new Little Italy? Last month, the team behind Dio Mio and Redeemer Pizza opened Johnny Bechamel’s in the neighborhood, serving up a fun, modern spin on Italian fare. Restaurant Olivia has been holding down its corner at Downing and Alameda since 2020, offering a fine-dining Italian experience that in 2023 earned it Michelin-recommended status, which is has maintained it ever since.

Just before the new year, a third Italian joint debuted in the former Finley’s Pub next door to Candlelight Tavern. Florence Supper Club, located at 375 South Pearl Street, is the latest eatery from chef Miles Odell and co-owner/general manager Paul Lysek of Odell’s Bagel and the Counter at Odells, and it’s an instant classic that channels the best East Coast Italian-American eateries.

One of the hottest reservations in NYC is Carbone, which was founded in 2013 and now has nine locations worldwide. It’s know for over-the-top hospitality, offering a more glamorous spin on the typical red sauce spot, and its best-known dish is the spicy rigatoni vodka.

But who needs a Carbone in Denver when we now have Florence Supper Club? It oozes charm but in true Mile High style, glamour isn’t the name of the game. Instead, it’s a comforting neighborhood eatery — with a damn good spicy rigatoni alla vodka. But that’s just one reason to visit.

Odell and Lysek both grew up on the East Coast, and the restaurant is named for Lysek’s grandmother, who appears in some of the family photos that hang on the walls. This is a deeply personal project with a whole lot of heart. “It’s a love letter to the places we grew up going to. And a love letter to my grandmother, and to the neighborhood,” Lysek says.

What we saw:

Fans of Finley’s will still recognize the space — Odell and Lysek wanted to keep its character intact, so the big booths have remained, along with the dark wood bar that now has retro stained-glass light fixtures (sourced from Corky’s antiques on South Broadway) hanging above it.

The place is dimly lit, with candlelight illuminating the tables, and vintage sports memorabilia mingles among the framed photos on the walls, some of which are personal and some that were also purchased from vintage shops.

On our recent visit, the place filled up quickly for dinner service — but the bar seats offer a great place to hang for drinks, whether you plan on eating in or not. This place has palpable energy, and the staffers seem as excited to be there as the diners checking out the new addition.

What’s on the menu:

The team has kept things tight, with a concise menu of hits. Drink offerings ($13-$17) include four martini variations. We went with a classic Gibson ($13), which came in a frozen glass that was replaced when we were halfway through sipping, the kind of classy touch that makes Florence feel as special as it is comforting. There are also three classic cocktails and a trio of house libations, like the gin-based In a Pear Tree with a kick of cardamom, along with a full wine list of by the glass and bottle options.

Start with the foccacia ($7) served with olive oil for dipping. The light and airy slices have become an obsession for Odell, who says that he’s given the recipe the same rigorous testing as his bagels, and that work has paid off. The scapece ($16), an array of pickled veggies topped with slices of Parmesan, is a lovely accompaniment with the bread and offers a light start to the meal.

Meatballs ($9 each) are a must as well. Florence’s red sauce is the soul of the place, and it’s clearly made with love and shines when paired with the meatballs — which do, indeed, taste just like nonna’s.

Caesar salad lovers will appreciate the zippy dressing on this version as well as the generous pile of parm on top, along with crispy breadcrumbs in lieu of large croutons ($15).

The rigatoni is made in-house, and that fresh pasta really levels up what’s quickly become the spot’s most popular dish. Balancing creaminess with a nice kick, the spicy rigatoni alla vodka ($26) comes in a hearty portion that’s certainly shareable.

Other pasta choices include linguiini vongole ($34), orecchiette with sausage and broccoli rabe ($29), and lasagna bolognese al forno ($36).

Among the mains are veal marsala ($36) and chicken parm ( $32), though you can also order a “secret” menu item, veal parm.

Odell is a pro at seafood sourcing, proven by the quality of fish he serves at his tasting menu concept, the Counter at Odells, so be sure to ask about the catch of the day. While the dry-aged pork chop with grilled long peppers ($70) was tempting, we went with the substantial dry-aged ribeye ($90) cooked to a perfect medium rare and served with the option of adding on sauce Diane or, our favorite, gorgonzola sauce for $6 each.

Several sides ($12 each) like grilled broccoli rabe with Calabrian chile crisp, potatoes fondura and Tuscan kale with white beans round out the savory offerings.

And for dessert ($10), don’t miss Florence’s cheesecake, made using Lysek’s grandmother’s recipe; it’s decadent but light, with a classic graham cracker crust.

What surprised us:

That it feels like Florence has been around for years. There were no new restaurant jitters to be found. The concept is clearly well thought-out and the team functions confidently, from the kitchen to the front-of-house. It’s the kind of place where you immediately want to become a regular — and one you’d be proud to take your grandmother to.

Florence Supper Club is located at 375 South Pearl Street and is open from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. For more information, visit florencesupperclub.com.