Chai & Chai is a long way from Chez Panisse…

Chez Panisse created its own butterfly effect, changing the way Americans cook, eat and think about food. For Venu Alla, who lived near the legendary restaurant in Berkeley, that influence was personal and powerful, turning him into “something of a foodie,” he says, and inspiring the Indian architect and tech…

Work & Class has been a real labor of love

Every start-up is a labor of love. But in the case of Work & Class, which I review this week, the term has a whole new meaning. Despite the old adage about not getting involved with someone from work, owner/executive chef Dana Rodriguez is engaged to sous chef Vicente Sosa,…

Why does Work & Class seem so right now — and so right?

Rarely does a restaurant capture the moment as well as Work & Class, which opened in the Ballpark neighborhood this past January. And I’m not just talking about how it embodies 21st-century sustainability with its shipping-container shell. See also: The ten best restaurants in the Ballpark neighborhood…

From Leaf to Acorn, the greening of Denver’s salad scene

The Parisian family I lived with one summer served salads every night. They were plain little things, a few leaves of Bibb lettuce that their children and I rushed through on our way to the Camembert that was sure to follow. This was, after all, a traditional French family eating…

Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant offers much more than portobellos

The days are long-gone when chefs could grill a portobello and think they’d please their vegetarian guests. These days, restaurants are expected to cater to vegetarians, vegans, gluten-free diners and people with a host of other food allergies and/or sensitivities. But despite the growing awareness of and willingness to cater…

Review: Palettes presents an unfinished culinary picture

Palettes at the Denver Art Museum is part of the Kevin Taylor Restaurant Group, a name synonymous with fine dining. And for the most part, the aesthetically pleasing dining room matches its art-filled surroundings. To find out if the kitchen has a steady hand, read this week’s review of Palettes,…

Review: Palettes presents an unfinished culinary picture

Palettes 100 West 14th Avenue Parkway 303-534-1455 The roast pepper soup stared up at me, an edible riddle. Since it was from the special exhibition-themed menu at Palettes, the white-tablecloth restaurant inside the Denver Art Museum, I knew the dish must be related to the Modern Masters show, but how?…

Prima and Restaurant Kevin Taylor are gone, but Palettes remains

Kevin Taylor Restaurant Group made headlines when two of its best-known properties, Restaurant Kevin Taylor and Prima Ristorante, shuttered this spring — Kevin Taylor at the end of March, Prima just two weeks ago. Both were fixtures in the Hotel Teatro, which is undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation and is scheduled…

Want to try oysters? Don’t forget the training wheels…

Eating oysters is like learning to ride a bike: It’s best approached with training wheels. More than taste, the texture is what really gets people — which is why Sheila Lucero, executive chef of the four (and counting) locations of Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar, recommends sandwiching oysters between…

Review: Jax Glendale is a net gain for Denver diners

Jax Glendale, which opened nearly a year ago in the CitySet complex, puts a focus on sustainability and traceability. “People want to know where they’re getting their food,” says Sheila Lucero, executive chef for Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar. Accordingly, the staff at the Glendale outpost is well-schooled on…

Review: Jax Glendale is a net gain for the Denver dining scene

Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar 650 South Colorado Boulevard, Glendale 303-756-6449 Years ago, when I heard about the Seafood Watch pocket guide produced by the Monterey Bay Aquarium, I printed it out and tucked it in my wallet. Then, before ordering at restaurants, I’d scan the list to see…

At The Abbey Tavern, hospitality makes the difference

Have you ever noticed how two people can look the same on paper, but when you meet them you sense that one has what the French would call a certain je ne sais quoi that sets that person apart? The same is true for restaurants: Sometimes that extra spark comes…