Hed:Smashburger continues its march for world hamburger domination.

It’s been a smashing week for Smashburger. The Denver-based chain of fast-casual burger restaurants has suddenly exploded, with plenty of ink documenting how it’s gone big-time. First, Nation’s Restaurant News tapped the operation as one of its “Hot Concepts” for 2009 — a very big deal in the highly competitive…

Charlie Master is moving on

Charlie Master — well-known floorman-about-town and scion of the former Mel’s restaurant empire — is packing it in at Sketch, leaving his gig with Jesse Morreale and Sean Yontz to become the new FOH guy for Goose Sorensen at Solera. “I’m excited about going to work for Goose,” Charlie told…

Where am I eating?

This, ladies and gentleman, is why Denver is awesome. One burger (with a little bacon), one order of fries, from a place that no one even thinks of when they’re listing the best restaurants in Denver — and yet this has quickly become one of my favorite fallbacks. Name it…

Good karma at Karma

I have no use for fusion cuisine, for the deliberate fuckery that comes of trying to jam two or three or five culinary traditions together on one plate, for the dumb manhandling of food- — torturing it and forcing it into unnatural configurations of time or flavor or place. Of…

Save the date: LoDo Bites!

These days, it seems like every city has a Taste of Whatever-Ville. Taste of Dayton, Taste of Barstow, Taste of Weehawken, and so forth. What’s more, it seems that, in the larger cities, every neighborhood wants to get in on the action with its own mini-festival celebrating whatever it was…

Ask the Critic: Nothin’ but nuts

Because I live and work in Colorado, and because my livelihood revolves almost entirely around food, I get asked quite a lot about that one food item for which Colorado will always be known: the Rocky Mountain oyster.Yes, we’re talking about balls.  I’ve eaten them a couple of times, and…

The List: Denver’s Best Burgers

I’ve been writing a lot about burgers lately, so this week’s list reflects nothing more than my personal obsession du jour. Below are my top five burgers in Denver (and beyond).If I miss your favorite, be sure to add it in the comments.  With any luck, together we can come…

Reason to be happy at Happy Noodle House

I’ve got good news from Happy Noodle House, at 835 Walnut Street in Boulder. Not only did this joint that I reviewed two months ago start offering lunch-delivery service to its fans, but it has a new menu. This one, it seems, has bent even further in the international direction,…

Smashburger goes big

Yesterday I was called out of a very important Cafe strategy meeting at the Fainting Goat to take a call from a fellow scribbler, up against a deadline at the Chicago Tribune and looking for a few words about local chain Smashburger. “Tell me,” he said, “on a scale of one…

Will the last business leaving the Beauvallon turn out the lights?

Denver lost another restaurant when Nine75 went dark on Sunday, following a weekend full of parties to mark the imminent demise of a place that had already cheated death once before. When Nine75 opened four years ago under the umbrella of the then-burgeoning Sullivan Restaurant Group, it quickly made a…

Huffington Post (and America) thinks Denver bites

Right this minute, the future of ten of America’s great food cities is being decided. By readers of the Huffington Post. No, seriously. This isn’t a joke. As you are reading this, the highest-rated, single-most popular story at HuffPo is a poll for the ten best food cities. Denver is on…

Park Burger’s moment to shine

Sitting in the bar, I knew I needed a burger. A couple of them, maybe. Big, fat burgers, mid-rare and bleeding juice over the sides of the buns. I needed the kind of burgers they show in commercials — straight-up porn-star burgers, all greasy and fat and bad for me…

Last rites for Nine75

The space at 975 Lincoln Street is dark now. The doors are locked, the lights are out. Yesterday, George Eder and some of his guys from Jet Entertainment Group gutted the place, taking out everything they could — food and dry-stock, the art from the walls.  All that’s left are…

Seven goes dark in Boulder

It looks as though Seven Eurobar (which had, at some point in its brief history, become just “Seven” or, occasionally, “Seven on Pearl”) has gone dark at 1035 Pearl Street in Boulder.  No one is picking up the phone (even though the voicemail still encourages callers to leave reservation requests)…

Ask the Critic: Can’t always get what you want

I did a reading last week at the Tattered Cover and it was nice — drew a good crowd, met some nice people, signed a lot of copies of Cooking Dirty.  During the event, I paused briefly in my witty, stream-of-consciousness banter about kitchens and cooks and all the dirty…

Second Snooze set to rise Friday, July 31

Friday, July 31st at 9 a.m.–that’s the opening that Snooze owner Jon Schlegel is promising for the second location of his two-unit breakfast empire. “I don’t know if you’ve peeked inside,” Schlegel said to me this morning (I have), “but it’s so close.” And man, it better be.  Because while the public…

The List: Where are they now?

As mentioned briefly in this week’s review of Mel’s in Greenwood Village, the original Mel’s (the one in Cherry Creek that closed last year) was one of Denver’s premier training houses — a place where it sometimes seems an entire generation of local chefs did their time before moving on…

Sexy Pizza is good, hot and tasty- natch

I’ve been eating a lot of pizza lately. Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve made two trips to Brooklyn M.C.’s for both pizzas and calzones, stopped by Famous for a slice, and one night, too lazy to think it through any further, Laura even called in an order to…