Food & Drink

According to proprietor Andrea Frizzi, Vero was born when Central Market developer Ken Wolf asked the Italian chef if he knew anyone who could do pizza. “I said, ‘Dude. The fuck?'” recalls Frizzi. And he signed the lease for a market stall the next day. Vero offers Milanese-style pizza, which is thinner and crispier than its Napolitano cousin, and topped considerably more creatively. (Frizzi says Milanese pizzas in Italy can be topped with oddities like hot dogs and french fries.) Vero’s crust is cracker-crisp, with a nice yeasty complexity; we like ours simply adorned with tangy tomato sauce, bubbling mozzarella and biting fresh basil, though pies here come topped with everything from ricotta and egg to tuna and olives.

Readers’ Choice: Racca’s Pizzeria Napolitana

Choices, choices. We first fell in love with Blue Pan Pizza because of chef Jeff “Smoke” Smokevitch’s rectangular Detroit-style pies, crunchy on the edges where the cheese caramelizes onto the pan, light and airy in the middle and topped with high-quality ingredients like prosciutto di Parma, San Marzano tomatoes and Tender Belly bacon. But then we tried the floppy New York-style slices and fell in love all over again. And the decisions got even more difficult when we branched out with the Chicago cracker-thin crust and a chewier classic Italian, and found we loved those, too. While a table can be tough to score on a busy weekend night, the pies travel well, so takeout is always an option. But it’s fun to be part of the action in this pizzeria’s lively, bustling dining room, where wine flows by the bottle (some pretty good ones, too, for a tiny pizza joint) and the pizza keeps coming out of the kitchen in all the shapes and toppings we crave.

Readers’ Choice: Racca’s Pizzeria Napolitana

Coy Webb may be Texan by birth, but he embraced Colorado as the inspiration for the menu at his busy south Denver barbecue joint. Webb and his wife, Rachael, keep the neighborhood — and a small army of barbecue tourists — fed with slow-smoked lamb and bison as well as more traditional beef brisket and pork shoulder and ribs. Housemade bison green-chile sausage (elk sometimes shows up, too) adds Rocky Mountain appeal, as do sides that are just different enough to raise an eyebrow while keeping with tradition. The coleslaw is spiked with lime and cilantro, the cheddar mac is studded with poblano chiles, and even the potato salad gets a little Southwestern flair. Head over for weekly specials like brisket tacos, burnt ends or smoked lemon-pepper trout, but head over early, because Roaming Buffalo nearly always runs out of food before dinner.

Readers’ Choice: Moe’s Original Bar-B-Que

During his two-year tenure as owner of the venerable East Side Kosher Deli, Joshua Horowitz has been carefully revamping the deli counter and grocery store. And earlier this year, he took things to the next level, gutting the establishment and reopening with a fresh cultural aesthetic and a mouthwatering menu that incorporates a healthy ration of smoked meats — brisket, turkey — along with something unexpected: sushi. An on-site sushi chef rolls out 100 percent kosher sushi, relying on clever alternatives for no-nos such as shellfish. He didn’t reinvent the wheel entirely, though: Diners who wander in for the classics will still be greeted with matzoh-ball soup and one heck of a pastrami sandwich.

Just thinking about the mostly vegetarian grub at Jason Bailey’s Golden Triangle lunch spot gets our mouths watering and our feet headed for Parsley. We’re big fans of the texture tuna and hummus sandwich, as well as the scratch-made soups. But what really turns us on is the management’s dogged distaste for corporate fascism. That temperament starts with lovely green touches: on-site recycling and composting, for example, along with a rooftop garden and mostly organic menu items. Rebel morale slinks out of the kitchen and onto the walls, which are pasted with civil-penalty notices — check out the Museum of the Late Fees — and art for non-conformists. And just so you don’t forget your core values when you leave his store, Bailey also hawks a fantastic line of “Feminist as F*ck” T-shirts. Thanks for fighting the good fight, Parsley.

Olive & Finch is so much more than a sandwich shop, but chef/owner Mary Nguyen builds such amazing meat-and-bread constructions that most sandwich-only spots pale in comparison. Many of the choices are named after Nguyen’s friends and family, so choose from the Luca, an Italian stack; the Bennett, a veggie mix with sweet basil pesto; or the Cashman, which combines roast beef and caramelized onion with Brie and horseradish aioli. Our favorite is the Greggers, a messy pile of beef tongue cooked for six hours and then topped with garlic, caramelized onions, roasted red peppers and tarragon aioli. In a stroke of pure sandwich genius, Nguyen puts many of the sauces on top of the meats and veggies instead of underneath, so the bread doesn’t get soggy and the flavors come to the forefront. Get to know these creations on a first-name basis.

Readers’ Choice: Stack Subs

Take wing at Departure, the futuristic pan-Asian eatery from chef Gregory Gourdet in the Halcyon Hotel, which opened in Cherry Creek in the summer of 2016. While you won’t want to miss Gourdet’s authentic Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese and Thai cuisine on the main menu, be sure to start with an order of chile-glazed wings from the dim sum menu. These little nibbles have been lollipopped so that all the meat is at one end of the bone, making for a tidy little bundle with a built-in handle. A light, crispy coating of batter holds a sweet-hot glaze that packs a wallop of Southeast Asian flavors straight from a market stall. Take turns with your dining partner guessing the ingredients (lemongrass, fish sauce, garlic, ginger) — that is, if you can catch a breath between bites before all the wings are gone.

Readers’ Choice: Fire on the Mountain

Preston Phillips might be one of the youngest chef/owners in town, but he grew up eating gas-station fried chicken in his home state of Alabama, and he brings that Southern-fried experience to his subterranean Cherry Creek eatery. Grind’s bird gets brined and then rested in a buttermilk bath before being fried so that a thick, crunchy coating forms around juicy, silky meat. Each piece comes out a dark reddish-brown, evidence of ample seasonings in the crust, offset by tangy housemade pickles and seasonal sides. In quiet Cherry Creek, the streets now echo with the crunch of Grind’s crave-worthy chicken.

Readers’ Choice: The Post

Chef/owner Justin Brunson knows his pork; the hog, after all, provided the inspiration for the name of his LoHi destination eatery (Old Major was the pig in George Orwell’s Animal Farm). But when it came to creating a happy-hour hot dog, Brunson and his team went all-beef — specifically, wagyu from Colorado’s 7X Beef. The well-marbled meat of Japanese heritage grinds up nicely in Old Major’s dog, resulting in a juicy, savory link that’s smoked and served on a homemade roll with a tangy topping of house pickles and condiments. That’s more than enough to earn our happy-hour dollars — seven of them for this shapely beast — in a neighborhood rife with deals.

Readers’ Choice: Biker Jim’s

Arcana’s menu is long on showstoppers; it reimagines familiar foods with unusual ingredients and innovative flavor combinations. But chef Kyle Mendenhall also knows that in order to truly wow a diner, every bite must sing, from appetizer through dessert, from the meal’s focus to the lowly sides. And so his kitchen pays careful attention to things like fries, which accompany a handful of sandwiches on the lunch menu but get no special billing. And these spuds deserve acclaim. Arcana starts with skin-on russet potatoes and cuts them pencil-thin before frying them at two different temperatures — at lower heat to cook them, and at higher heat to crisp them up — and then dusting them with salt. This process, Mendenhall says, ensures that the fries retain a creamy center within a crunchy casing. They’re served golden, crispy, salty and hot, and are so good you’re likely to power through them and then consider a re-up before you’ve finished your meal. Give in to the temptation: Arcana sells a side of fries, though it’s not listed on the menu.

Readers’ Choice: Steuben’s

You know a veggie burger is good when you crave it even knowing how good a burger joint’s beefy offering is. That’s the case at American Grind, part of the Avanti food hall’s rotating lineup of chef-driven projects. The force behind American Grind is the same crew that runs the Way Back in West Highland, and the veggie burger itself came after three years of R & D from co-owner Jared Schwartz. The Veggieburg, as its called on the menu, is made with beets, carrots, sweet potato, chickpeas and chickpea flour, resulting in a texture that’s just shy of a meaty chew but still provides plenty of substance. The veggie-and-legume blend packs good, earthy flavor without pretending to be meat and highlights American Grind’s commitment to sourcing from regional farms. Don’t expect a weak substitute for an all-beef patty here; this Veggieburg stands on its own.

Readers’ Choice: Park Burger

Taco Tuesday is a legitimate draw at many bars around town, Mexican or otherwise. But Cochino Taco throws a wrench into the Taco Tuesday machine by making one of its burgers a special that day. Owner Johnny Ballen, who’s also a partner in the Squeaky Bean downtown, designed this gut buster that features a ladleful of queso, poblano chiles, fried jalapeño shards and a pile of “lettuce fluff” — Ballen’s catchphrase for the fine-shredded iceberg found on diner burgers across the country. A six-ounce patty gets a simple griddling on the flat-top, and then the whole mess is presented with a haystack of kennebec fries. With something this good on the menu, we’re wondering why Ballen didn’t name his Englewood joint Cochino Burger.

Readers’ Choice: Park Burger

A classic eggs Benedict at Maddie’s is like coming home for the Hollandaise. In this brunch-crazed city, where restaurants offer creative takes on every eggy dish under the rising sun, Maddie’s stands out for sticking with tradition. Last fall, Maddie’s made the move from its original tiny cottage to a big new home next door, built diner-style from the bones of a former service station; the retro digs serve as a good backdrop for a simple but delicious eggs Benedict, veering from the standard formula only by slipping some smoked Gouda between the ham and poached egg. Hollandaise sauce adds a sunny lemon zing, and the whole thing is built on, yes, an English muffin; there’s nary a fried polenta cake or wedge of artisan bread to be found. A vegetarian version can be had, too, which swaps out the ham for sauteed veggies. If you’re really feeling crazy, there’s also a bagel-and-lox Bennie, which is really just a bagel-and-lox sandwich with a poached egg on top.

Readers’ Choice: Snooze

Beast + Bottle chef/co-owner Paul Reilly has a way with meat; that much is clear from his dinner menus packed with pork and lamb prime cuts and outstanding offal. Reilly’s whole-animal philosophy spills over into brunch, too, served Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. And while you can sink your teeth into the likes of smoked trotter confit, corned lamb and B + B’s always craveable fig + pig flatbread, more delicate breakfast items — classic French omelets, airy flaxseed waffles, housemade pastries — demonstrates the kitchen’s finesse. Anything made with eggs reflects a farm-to-table commitment; Beast + Bottle has its own dedicated egg-laying flock at Cottonwood Creek Farms. Combine that with gracious and cheery service that trickles down from co-owner Aileen Reilly, and you’ve got a warm and welcoming brunch from a capital crew.

Readers’ Choice: Snooze

For three years, this bright-yellow doughnut shop in Arvada has churned out quality pastries thanks to Peter, “just Peter,” the baker, manager and one-man band who owns OMG Donuts with his Texas-dwelling wife. The specialty is a large, yeast-risen model that looks like a pine cone and pulls apart in neat little chunks of sugar-cinnamon goodness. Doughnut lovers should also order one or five of the freshly stuffed jelly doughnuts, a choose-your-own-adventure option that includes raspberry jam, lemon curd, Bavarian cream, peanut butter or vanilla custard. Take them to go or wolf down a doughnut at one of the two sports-themed tables in the tiny store.

Readers’ Choice: Voodoo Doughnut

After showing off his pie skills at the Post Brewing Company in Lafayette, John Hinman opened Hinman’s Bakery, a wholesale outfit that provides Denver restaurants with fresh rolls, breads and desserts. But lovers of good pie don’t have to seek out Hinman’s products on restaurant menus; they can call the bakery directly to reserve a pie for themselves. Among the fruit-filled wonders that have won baking contests against some of the city’s proudest grandmas, Hinman has a bourbon pecan pie that really takes the cake. A perfect crust that holds its shape on the plate while yielding gently between the teeth is loaded with a rich and buttery pecan mixture spiked with bourbon from Denver’s own Laws Whiskey House.

“We aim to satisfy the soul and nourish the body,” says baker and Moxie founder Andy Clark. The nourishing part of the little Louisville bakery he built inside an old Victorian house comes in the form of rustic bread that ferments naturally (with no yeast added) over several days in the French pain au levain style before being baked to a hearty, crusty finish. Stop in at the bakery in the morning for an expertly made espresso drink and avocado toast or head over for a lunchtime sandwich built on chewy slabs of house bread. And to satisfy your soul, choose something a little more decadent, like buttery, flaky croissants — or even more buttery kouign-amann, which sport the same flaky layers crusted with sugar for one of the most pleasurable treats around, especially if you choose a fruit- or chocolate-filled kouign. Moxie is the perfect combination of Old World baking in a small-town America setting.

Readers’ Choice: Grateful Bread

High Point owners Erika Thomas and Chad Stutz formulate each batch of their ice cream with the minds of chefs and the spirits of giddy children. So nearly every flavor has a little surprise, whether it’s the curious hint of miso in the cherry-chocolate or the bursts of violet fudge that hide in a creamy lime base. When booze is used, it’s used with abandon, as in the Tin Cup whiskey with pistachio brittle, and when ingredients are listed, you know those flavors will be bold — whether it’s Earl Grey tea, fresh mint leaves or the basil in the blackberry-basil swirl. Housemade cones, ice-cream bombe cakes and rich milkshakes add to the sweet allure of this Hilltop shop that built a second location inside Denver Central Market, making for a pair of locations to get Denver’s best brain freeze.

Readers’ Choice: Little Man

Milkshakes aren’t just for kids. At Milkbox Creamery, you can choose from four pre-determined boozy options, use a list of available spirits to make your own, or grill the counter staffers for their favorite liquor-fueled creations. How about Key lime pie and coconut ice cream with rum? Or maybe s’mores ice cream spiked with bourbon? No matter what you decide, each $10 treat is made with goods from Little Man Ice Cream and comes in a giant glass complete with whipped cream if you so desire. And because of Milkbox’s location, you can enjoy your adult libation in the very grown-up lobby of Union Station.

Strung with Christmas lights yet perpetually dark, the Thin Man looks like a tavern awash in beer and whiskey. But the bar has long anchored its business on a run of house-infused vodkas, which explains why you’ll spy an inordinate number of martini drinkers when you belly up for a drink. Behind the counter sit vats filled with lemons, berries, pickles and sweet tea; they’re topped off with vodka and dispensed neat or in cocktails. That practice enables the bartender to give white Russians a bit of a twist, replacing the usual vodka with a vanilla-bean-infused version. Into that goes a little Richardo’s coffee liqueur — a locally made spirit pumped up with more vanilla — plus half-and-half. The final mix tastes a little like a vanilla milkshake (though less sweet), and it’s a bit lighter than its more classic brethren. Perhaps that’s why the Thin Man serves this drink in a full pint glass as opposed to the usual tumbler.

Restaurant by-the-glass selections often prioritize accessibility and familiarity — chardonnay, cabernet, sauvignon blanc — and make you venture into the cellar to find something truly interesting to drink. Not so at the Populist, whose by-the-glass list is an immediate standout. Wines from unsung regions like Lebanon and New Mexico get equal billing with Rhone reds and Napa Valley whites here, forming an alluring and well-rounded board of offerings that will please wine geeks and novices alike. And talk about half-full: This restaurant offers every single pour in a half-glass size, which means you can both taste more and taste to educate yourself, sipping something totally different from what you’d normally order without having to commit to a bottle. Don’t read this as a call to completely ignore the Populist’s bottle list, though, because a few more unusual gems are listed alongside more classic showstoppers from Mosel, Chianti and Burgundy. Better yet, almost everything is priced below $100 per bottle, and the majority of these wines ring in under $60.

Readers’ Choice: Nocturne

In his past life, Distillery 291 proprietor Michael Myers was a celebrity photographer, but he’d acquired a fascination with whiskey and the West when he was a kid in Tennessee. In 2011, he moved to Colorado with his sons, and that September he launched 291, with a goal of capturing classic pioneering spirit in every bottle. Distillery 291’s whiskeys certainly carry a whiff of Colorado — they’re finished on aspen staves, which impart a bit of forest to the nose — and we’re fascinated by the clarity of these spirits, a quality that make them comparable to Japanese whiskeys. You taste the precision through the entire line, from the lightly aged and mildly sweet American whiskey to the heady, woodsy Colorado bourbon. The spirits are a delight to sip neat or on the rocks, and their unique character makes us look forward to this operation’s next release, be it a happy accident, like the recent high rye bourbon, or something intentional and unusual.

Readers’ Choice: Stranahan’s

You already know that the cheese collection is stellar at the Truffle Table’s slice of space; how could it be otherwise, with proprietors who made their name running a wildly successful artisan cheese shop? But this neighborhood gem should also be on the radar of wine-lovers…even those who are allergic to dairy. We favor wine bars with thoughtful by-the-glass lists, and the Truffle Table delivers on that requirement. Its seasonally shifting list is well-balanced between old world and new world, strange and familiar, voluptuous and restrained. Curated with cheese in mind (of course), the list also has a strong section of sherries and fortified wines that you’ll want to peruse, particularly if you like strong, funky cheeses. One of our favorite ways to play here: Pick a wine and then ask a staffer to build a cheese board based on your selection. Or do it the other way around, leading with cheese, and discover something new on the wine front.

Readers’ Choice: Vesta

Just about every boozy brunch joint in this town offers some kind of bottomless-mimosa deal, and most follow this basic formula: Mix a little cheap sparkling wine and a strong pour of OJ, repeat several times, and three hours later, you need to nap until tomorrow. Second Home may very well get you to that outcome, but there are a couple of reasons to opt for this $14 all-you-can-drink deal over others. One, the restaurant serves a quartet of juices and doesn’t require you stick to one, which means you can stray from the typical orange into cranberry, pineapple or grapefruit (or mix of a couple of these, like pineapple and orange). Two, the restaurant lets you designate your own ratio of sparkling to juice, which overcomes our biggest complaint about most bottomless mimosas: too much OJ, not enough wine. Fill ‘er up to the top, please, and then give us a splash of juice. You get your money’s worth quickly that way. And three, if you need that nap, you can book a room upstairs in the JW Marriott that houses Second Home.

Readers’ Choice: The Lobby

What happens when a high-caliber chef like Scott Parker leaves an excellent restaurant like Table 6 and decamps for a brewery kitchen in Idaho Springs? You get a brewpub that’s worth a stop, whether you’re drinking or not. Westbound and Down deals in sports-bar classics — nachos, pretzels, chili and burgers — and each dish is executed by an exacting hand, resulting in a menu that’s elevated in quality but not unnecessarily fancified. This food is immensely comforting, and ideal for pairing with an IPA after a hike or a day on the slopes. Friendly bartenders will set you right, plotting you a course through a trough of green-chile cheese fries littered with pork shoulder; housemade charcuterie ;and a buffalo burger paved with white cheddar. We never miss the hot-fried chicken, either: The poultry comes peppered with lip-tickling spice and sided with a fluffy buttermilk biscuit plus one additional side. Get the mac and cheese — the classic spirals in creamy cheddar are the platonic ideal of the version you loved as a kid.

Readers’ Choice: Wynkoop Brewing Company

In retrospect, the idea to open a brewery with a drive-thru window for beer and food is so genius, it’s amazing that no one had thought of it before. Last year, the Trapp family, who run a Boulder restaurant construction company, took over an old Burger King in Lafayette and turned it into a restaurant, with a patio, that serves the Trapps’ favorite food: barbecue. But they didn’t stop there. They also retrofitted that drive-thru so that you can get single cans or a whole six-pack of their beers when you pick up your burnt ends or brisket to go. U-Turn makes two styles, a dark and a light, both of which pair well with the food. As the Trapp motto goes: Keeping It Simple.

When you order a Bierstadt Lagerhaus lager inside the Rackhouse Pub, which serves as its taproom, you’re not just getting delicious liquid: You’re getting an experience. The flagship here is the Slow-Pour Pils, which is served in a very specific seventeen-ounce glass and topped, after at least five minutes of pouring, with a creamy head that resembles the top of a fluffy cupcake. But the pils isn’t alone: Although Bierstadt doesn’t make a lot of beers, each one is carefully crafted and carefully presented, each in its own glassware, from a sold Helles mug to a tall, thin and dainty Baltic porter glass. And the glassware doesn’t end there. Any bar or restaurant that wants to serve Bierstadt beer also has to use the glasses. That’s dedication.

Declaration Brewing, which renamed its taproom Preamble by Declaration last year, has one of the most spacious and well-thought-out drinking areas in Denver, complete with games, TVs and a snowboard theme. Two enormous garage doors open up onto a large, relaxing oasis of a gated side patio, filled with well-shaded tables, potted flowers, a ping-pong table, a spacious grassy area for cornhole and other lawn games, backyard lights, and a pad set aside just for food trucks. There’s also a grand mural of Uncle Sam, who wants YOU to drink beer here. The casual outdoor area is basically the picture that would be next to the encyclopedia entry for “brewery patio in Denver,” if there were such an entry.

Robots make some people nervous, but not at Little Machine Beer, where their faces decorate the tap handles and their images run throughout the brewery. In fact, Little Machine has one of the most laid-back, friendliest atmospheres around — in addition to great beer across a wide range of styles. Part of that is the result of the tone set by owners Mike Dunkly, Brett Williams and Ben Chenard, but it’s also because of the unique circular bar (made from a single honey locust tree), a centerpiece that allows twenty to thirty people to sit around and face one another. Comfy chairs and couches, a patio and big garage doors complete the vibe.

Founded in 2014 by Tommy Bibliowicz and his family, 4 Noses has steadily grown over the past two years, building both its beer selection and its reputation. In 2016, the brewery’s Pump Action Imperial Pumpkin Ale swept the two most prestigious beer competitions, winning gold at the World Beer Cup and the Great American Beer Festival. But pumpkin beers are just the beginning. What the brewery has really become known for are its IPAs, including ‘Bout Damn Time, a canned flagship that is one of the most delicious representations of the style in Colorado, and .44 Magnum Double IPA. 4 Noses also started an Ad Hoc series of creative and experimental beers, and turns out other solid cans, like Laika Boss Russian Imperial Stout, and draft-only one-offs served in the lovely, cozy taproom. Thanks to those four noses, the brewery’s profile will continue to get higher in 2017.

It’s not easy for new breweries to get noticed in metro Denver — not when there are already 200 of them and more opening every month. So when a brewery does stand out, especially in the suburbs, it’s worth taking note. Resolute Brewing had a buzz going even before it opened last July, but the place has lived up to the hype. Founded by a group of Columbine High grads, including head brewer Zac Rissmiller, Resolute boasts a semi-circular bar — meaning the bartenders can pour your beer faster — as well as a fifteen-barrel brewing system and a chill flagstone patio with a walkway down to the food-truck parking area. The menu includes a wide range of beers, many of them lower-alcohol styles, including the crowd-pleasing hefewiezen, a session IPA and a hoppy pilsner. But there are plenty of other styles, too, like Wee Heavy, a dopplebock and a robust porter. And you should be seeing more of these beers around soon: Resolute just signed on with a distributor in March.

Readers’ Choice: Briar Common Brewery + Eatery

Grab a bar stool at the Englewood Grand and you’ll immediately think we put this bare-bones but still inviting watering hole in the wrong category. “There’s no way this place is new,” you’ll think. But after only a year in business, the Grand has made itself at home in downtown Englewood. You’ll find no long-winded menus, no fussy small plates, no chemist’s closet of beakers and dropper bottles to confound you. Owners Phil and Erika Zierke have built just a bar — a great bar — that welcomes all comers from the neighborhood and beyond. Phil (he’s the one in the leather cowboy hat) can certainly impress with something shaken or stirred, or you can stick with a few locally made brews, a whiskey neat or a simple mixed drink — the kind that doesn’t have a name. If you need anything else to keep you entertained, stick around for occasional bands, some guest grub or even a pillow fight.

First things first: The Way Back is not just a cocktail bar. Coming here and failing to try something from the menu of innovative dishes, all prepared in a food-truck kitchen, is to miss out on at least half of what this establishment has to offer. But you’ll be forgiven if you didn’t know that, because the food, formidable as it is, has been overshadowed by the Way Back’s bar — a very glorious bar. Built with the same seasonal ethos as the kitchen, steeled by the bartending chops of the owners and staff, and dashed with considerable whimsy, the cocktail list veers wildly through smart variations on classics, utterly unusual concoctions and drinks that are just plain fun (frozen banana daiquiri, anyone?). Don’t see anything you like? The bar will tailor a drink just for you, an enticing prospect when you’re in the hands of this capable crew. And if you’re not a spirits hound, the wine list is nothing to sneeze at, either.

Readers’ Choice: Nocturne

If, for whatever reason, you have decided to skip the alcohol but still desire a stiff drink, consider the expertly crafted Darjeeling Old Fashioned mocktail at Departure, a sleek new spot in Cherry Creek. Created by beverage director Brandon Wise, the basis of this drink is darjeeling tea brewed strong and spiked with turbinado sugar syrup, bitters and fresh lemon. Though the flavor leans more toward iced tea than bourbon, you won’t be disappointed by the notes of floral fruits and bright citrus. As a bonus, it looks just like the classic cocktail, so no one will ever know you’ve decided to stay sober during happy hour.

Happy hour is only happy if it’s filled with cheap food and drinks, both of which are bountiful at Stout Street Social. Because of the spacious, eclectic eatery’s location in the heart of downtown’s convention and theater district, the menu offers all things for all people, including sushi, prime rib, bar snacks and raw oysters. While you peruse the happy-hour menu, order a $4 cocktail; there are several to choose from, including a classic martini made with gin or vodka. If you prefer beer or wine, don’t miss the huge selection of $3 drafts (many made in Colorado) and wine pours ranging from $4 to $6. Now that the critical decision is out of the way, move on to a few oysters on the half shell, at a reasonable $1.95 each, or some zingy kimchi fries. Oh, and that prime rib? You can get your fill of beef with $3.95 sliders or an eight-ounce slab with potatoes and jus for $14.95. Your happy hour just got a lot more social!

Readers’ Choice: Adelitas/Blue Island Oyster Bar (tie)

Denver isn’t known for its late-night revelry, but RiNo stays active a little later than most neighborhoods, thanks to a hip, young demographic and a wide variety of options for bar and restaurant hopping. Cart-Driver, a wood-fired pizza joint wedged into a reclaimed shipping container, keeps the party going with a $5 menu (for both food and drinks) from 10 p.m. to midnight every night of the week. The selection’s not huge, but a Daisy pizza (think Neapolitan Margherita) or some sardine toast will help soak up a perfect Manhattan, or you can go hipster with a shot of Fernet and a Prost pilsner. Twenty bucks will take you through the whole happy-hour menu before it’s time to give up your seat and move on, or you can hang out over the pizzeria’s $5 canned beers (priced that way whether it’s happy hour or not), which include several local brews. Nighttime is the right time to land one of the best pizzas in town for less than half the standard price.

Readers’ Choice: Steuben’s

Don’t make the mistake of thinking that Phil’s Place is a dive bar, even though it’s certainly the most modest spot in this booming area of RiNo, across from both the Exdo Event Center and a new Chuburger. But Phil’s Place long pre-dates those spots; Phil Garcia bought the Our Place bar before RiNo was even considered a neighborhood, then turned the game room into a kitchen for his mother, Junie, a legendary cook from the Bamboo Hut. She still turns out her Mexican specialties several days a week until the kitchen closes at 4 p.m.; Phil’s father, Gary, is often behind the bar. And seated at the stools in front of that bar? Entertaining regulars who can tell you just how much this neighborhood has changed, and likely a few developers sniffing around this prime piece of property.

The Welcome Inn also goes by the name New Welcome Inn, but there’s nothing new about this bar that’s been run by the same family for almost thirty years; the music is loud, the games popular, and the linoleum on the bar worn by generations of elbows. What’s new is the area around the bar: This was once one of the darkest corners in Denver, but since the Blue Moon Brewing Company opened a 30,000-square-foot brewery and restaurant right across the street, it’s become a clean and well-lighted place. Which means that plenty of developers have to be eyeing the prime corner occupied by the Welcome Inn. Enjoy the joint while you can.

For more than forty years, tipplers have gathered at the Lakeview Lounge on the last day of Daylight Saving Time to toast the sun as it rises over Sloan’s Lake. From the well-worn bar, they have a great view of Denver — and just how much Denver is changing. Cranes now mark the downtown skyline to the east; to the south, development is exploding around the former St. Anthony Hospital. We have seen the future, and it’s enough to drive us to drink. Fortunately, the Lakeview is there to serve.

Dive bars are drying up in Denver, swept away by tides of development. We’ve lost many of this city’s celebrated saloons over the past few years, which makes the survival of Carioca Cafe — better known as Bar Bar, thanks to the neon outside — something to celebrate. Perhaps with a drink or ten. For more than a century, this spot has held down the corner of Champa and 20th streets, serving drinks nineteen hours a day to an assortment of regulars, would-be Great American Novelists, hipsters, transients and rockers (during the Eisenhower era, it reportedly served something else in the game room, then a whorehouse); today the entertainment focuses more on the jukebox, live-music acts and endless inebriated conversations. The drinks are stiff, the bathrooms awful, and the atmosphere beyond compare. Leave the credit cards at home; this place is strictly cash and carry on.

There’s something about this new Highland eatery that makes you feel like you’ve been here before, perhaps years ago, long before restaurateur Jesse Morreale opened the laid-back lounge. That’s partly because of the 1950s American theme he’s used in the space, which gives it a well-worn aura and a comfortable vibe. But the Thunderbird also feels old-school because of its menu, a list of comforting favorites you might find in a classic diner: sloppy Joes, deviled eggs, turkey burgers and tomato soup with a grilled cheese sandwich. These dishes are flavored by more than nostalgia, though; they’re just plain good.

“The list isn’t accurate,” a bartender says apologetically, as she hands over the thick binder that comprises the spirits collection at Finn’s Manor. “Let me know what you like, and I’ll help you find something good.” The reason you can’t work from the list, she explains, is because owner and “Voice of Whisky” Robert Sickler continues to add bottles to the shelf without updating the paperwork — there are now more than 160 to choose from. Still, evidence of Sickler’s obsessive curation can be found in that binder, which includes both big-name distillers and small craft shops and contains detailed tasting notes for every spirit listed. The lot runs deepest in Scotch, with several expressions from well-known regions like the Highlands as well as less-explored areas like the Lowlands. But there are plenty of other spirits to choose from here, including all-American bourbon, a broad store of Irish whiskeys, dozens of ryes, and international whiskeys from Japan, France and India. And since Finn’s prices its pours reasonably, you can afford to taste a flight.

Denver musician Nathaniel Rateliff teamed up with a couple of his bandmembers and the owners of the hi-dive to take over the former Bushwacker’s Saloon and unveil it as the Overland in the summer of 2016. But don’t go here because you’re a fan of the Night Sweats; the team has created a bona fide Broadway watering hole, worthy of a stop for late-night whiskeys after a long shift, beers with friends at happy hour or a solid plate of grub (don’t miss the poblano hush puppies) in an unpretentious setting. While not exactly a dive, the Overland feels lived-in and low-key, with just enough dining-room space for those who want to get a little rowdy without disturbing the regulars at the low-slung bar. That bar is a wonder in and of itself, with a sunken floor so that bartenders greet you at eye level rather than looking over your head for the next customer. Grab a stool and a drink and soak in the atmosphere without worrying about obscure cocktail ingredients or a head-spinning array of fancy beers. Sure, there are fancier saloons in town, but the Overland is where you’ll want to go day in and day out, when everything else in Denver feels too fancy by half.

Readers’ Choice: Palenque

We’ve got an offer you can’t refuse. The Bloody Mary bar at Gaetano’s — a seventy-plus-year-old restaurant in northwest Denver started by the Mob-connected Smaldone family, then acquired by the Wynkoop Brewing group and finally by independent owner Ron Robinson — is a real liquid asset in this city. The $8-meal-in-a-glass starts with your choice from three vodkas (including one pickled by the Gaetano’s bar), and then you add whatever you want from 75 sauces (hot or not), along with meaty items (succulent shrimp, jerky, housemade sugary bacon) and vegetables. Weekend bartender Cailyn Smith is in charge of this bountiful bar feature, and it’s reason to raise a glass not just to a single Bloody Mary bar, but Gaetano’s long history.

Readers’ Choice: Gaetano’s

Because the weekend is just not long enough for Denver’s favorite meal, the Hornet extended its brunch to include Friday, too. That means from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday through Sunday, you can buy yourself a pass at the Bloody Mary bar for just $2, and get a glass with ice and the house vodka, to which you add Bloody Mary mix (spicy or not), along with assorted sauces, seasonings and veggies. And in case this Bloody leaves you hungry, the Hornet has plenty of brunch deals, too.

Brian Rossi’s love affair with agave spirits has been developing for more than a decade, and since he launched Adelitas four years ago, Denver drinkers have been the direct beneficiary of his obsession. Rossi set out to highlight small, independent producers making high-quality tequila, and he amassed a sizable collection of such bottlings that continues to grow. After a trip to Oaxaca turned him on to the charms of the educational experience offered by mezcalerias, he opened Palenque directly behind his flagship, expanding his Mexican spirits offerings to encapsulate mezcal and other agave-based libations. This gives you, the discerning imbiber, an opportunity to taste dozens of rare finds, discovering whether you prefer smoky notes in a mezcal; verdant, smooth tequila; or another agave spirit entirely, such as raicilla. You’ll have to bar-hop to take it all in, but you’ll stay on the same city lot — and Palenque’s cozy environs present a nice contrast to the slightly wilder Adelitas. More of a cocktail drinker? No problem. Both joints offer a list of drinks that nicely showcase their wares, including the excellent house margarita at Adelitas.

We are absolute suckers for a good Tommy’s margarita, so named for the San Francisco restaurant that made famous the blend of tequila, lime and simple syrup. It’s sweeter than your triple-sec-spiked version, but it sure does go down easily. And so does Dos Santos, which serves a Tommy’s house margarita that had us — hook, lime and sinker — from first sip. To its simple blend of citrus and agave, Dos Santos adds high-quality Arette tequila, a complex and verdant spirit, then presents the drink simply in a jar with a wedge of lime and a bit of salt. Get it for a paltry $5 on Taco Tuesday, when several of the restaurant’s excellent tacos are only $2 apiece, and enjoy it on the patio.

Readers’ Choice: Rio Grande Mexican

Complimentary chips and salsa, once a hallmark of many Mexican restaurants in Denver, are getting harder and harder to find. But at El Tejado, they arrive at your table before you can even ask. The flavorful chips are made fresh every day in the kitchen; they have an ideal crunch and don’t sag before delivering a load of the tangy salsa. Since you’re already a couple of bucks to the good, go ahead and order one of El Tejado’s four special salsas or even a side of green chile — the hot is a killer.

Buried in a nondescript Arvada strip mall, Las Potrancas has much to recommend it: solid green chile, good chips and salsa, killer huevos rancheros, tequila bottle service (and tequila lockers, in case you’d like to store your purchase). But the best reason to venture to this cantina is the rellenos nachos, an inspired variation on the bar classic that dials up the indulgence factor considerably. For this snack, the kitchen replaces chips with a pile of chopped chiles rellenos — as in deep-fried chiles stuffed with Jack cheese. Add spicy green chile, more cheese and a little pico de gallo, and you get a platter that looks like a competitive eating challenge and eats like a guilty pleasure (and, oh, what a pleasure). Add chicken, steak or chicharrones to make these nachos a meal.

We’ve watched creative twists on nachos proliferate around town, and we can get down with many of those variations. But sometimes you just want the age-old combo, sans barbecue sauce or buffalo chicken. That’s when we head to El Camino, which takes the classic version and improves on each ingredient without straying from the original form. Chips are thick-cut and freshly fried. Mild Jack cheese, tangy pico de gallo, earthy black beans, racy pickled jalapeños, a dusting of cilantro and a few ribbons of sour cream are used generously but in ideal ratios, so that the toppings balance each other without a single flavor becoming overwhelming. The crowning touch is the green chile, which you can order either pork-infused or vegetarian. The chile is applied sparingly so the nachos don’t become soggy or soupy, but it imparts an addictive, savory head. Add chorizo or carnitas if you must, but the meat-free version works just fine for us.

Lancer’s Diner opened last spring as a neighborhood joint for Harvey Park, College View, Ruby Hill and Mar Lee, taking its name from the mascot of Lincoln High School, just across Federal. Big breakfasts are the specialty of the house, and the awe-inspiring breakfast burrito sticks close to that mission. A mountain of scrambled eggs, country potatoes, sautéed veggies and breakfast meat is barely contained by a straining flour tortilla. Order the standard for bacon and sausage (together, of course), or opt for spicy chorizo or steak. You can go meat-free, too, with avocado or unadorned egg and potato. But always, always ask for your burrito smothered so that you can wallow in a pond of the house green chile — a Denver-style gravy with plenty of chiles and a smooth texture that steers clear of gloppiness. Lancer’s isn’t a big place, so take care when ordering; this breakfast burrito could crowd out all the other customers.

Readers’ Choice: Santiago’s

If you want Denver’s best breakfast burrito, you have to be willing to work for it, because it’s hard to find. El Zarape is tucked away on Federal Boulevard, nestled into a shared parking lot with a used-car dealership. The best clue to its location: a line of cars that spills out onto Federal as hungry drivers wait for their unbeatable breakfast burritos, a bargain at $1.99 each. A homemade tortilla is wrapped around freshly fried potatoes, eggs and your choice of breakfast meat, wrapped in aluminum foil and then stashed in a paper bag with two packages of salsa. Grab the bag, pull out onto Federal and wait for a light before you attempt to spice up the burrito and take a bite. Traffic signal willing, it’s a great way to start the day.

Readers’ Choice: Santiago’s

Federal Boulevard is rife with good Mexican grub, much of it from market lunch counters where you can grab groceries and then sit down for a plate of tacos or a steaming bowl of caldo de res. Carniceria Aaliyah, which opened in the second half of 2016, has a tidy, well-stocked butcher counter, a few aisles of packaged goods and a steam table of hot foods for a grab-and-go dinner, unless you prefer to sit at the market’s lone table for a quick bite. That’s exactly the thing to do when you order tamales, because Aaliyah makes them so tender and rich with lard you won’t want to save them for later. Available in red or green chile, these steamed bundles are smooth, dense and packed with flavorful shredded pork. After you’ve devoured your order, add a tamale six-pack or two to your shopping basket for dinner at home.

Readers’ Choice: Adelitas

While cruising Broadway through downtown Englewood, be sure to stop for tacos, a tank of gas and a car wash — all under one roof. Garibaldi shares a building with a Conoco service station; the little cantina is wedged between the gas station’s convenience store and automated car wash. A window in the dining room even looks directly onto the whirling brushes and showers of suds as cars make their way through, so you’ll be entertained while you enjoy lunch or dinner. Of course, we wouldn’t send you to a taqueria if it wasn’t top-notch; despite the scintillating setting, the food is still the main attraction here. Daily specials — lamb barbacoa, quesadillas with huitlacoche and squash blossoms — are worth investigating (check ahead on Garibaldi’s Facebook page), or sample the unique quekas, which come in somewhere between an oversized taco and a corn-tortilla quesadilla. The thick, semi-crunchy shell enfolds layers of cheese and your choice of carnitas, chorizo, carne al pastor or the house specialty, suadero. Other hard-to-find regional dishes include pambazos (smothered tortas), nopales rellenos (stuffed cactus leaves) and mixiote (slow-cooked lamb). Fill ‘er up!

Trust a taqueria with “carnitas” in its name to turn out the town’s top tacos. But carnitas are where you begin at Carnitas California, which moved from its longtime home on Morrison Road to a bright new spot on Santa Fe Drive in the summer of 2016. Here, pork is slow-simmered in its own fat and juices in massive pots until the meat nearly falls apart. A quick sear on the griddle crisps the edges, but the pork is otherwise lightly seasoned; a colorful array of house salsas add the proper blast of heat and acidity. Dive deep into traditional carnitas with a mixed plate of the juicy pork, plus buche (stomach) and cueritos (soft-cooked pork skin), or choose from other equally impressive meats, from tangy cochinita pibil to beefy birria and barbacoa. The northbound-only stretch of Santa Fe that Carnitas California calls home means there’s only one way to go for the best tacos in town.

Readers’ Choice: Tacos Tequila Whiskey

Chef/owner Noe Bermudez grew up watching his mom, a professional chef, cook in restaurants in his home town of Uruapan, Michoacán. Much of the food at Kahlo’s, as well as at Bermudez’s first restaurant, Tarasco’s, is meatless simply because of tradition — but he’s also a proponent of healthy eating, as evidenced by his restaurants’ long lists of fresh fruit and vegetable juices. Bermudez’s green chile is just one of his vegetarian wonders; the spicy, tangy sauce livens up burritos, a meatless chimichanga or enchiladas with full-frontal chile flavor barely dressed with hints of garlic, onion and other seasonings. The green chile is much the same at both locations, but we love going green inside the bright, sunny and spacious Kahlo’s — a nourishing and nurturing spot for residents of the Westwood neighborhood.

Readers’ Choice: Adelitas

While the debate rages on between which is better — New Mexico green chile made with pepper pods from Hatch or the Colorado equivalent cooked with Pueblo’s finest — North County quietly stirs up batches of flawless verde in its Lowry kitchen. Thick, pea-green and threaded through with long-simmered pork, the stew packs a slow burn and an avalanche of green-chile flavor. Eat it plain or order it as a side for your carne asada fries, which…just order the carne asada fries! Chef/proprietor Sterling Robinson serves a similarly spicy green chile at north Denver’s Billy’s Inn if you can’t make it out to Lowry, but then you’d be missing out on a house-bottled cocktail to cool your tongue. The results are in: North County, representing Southern California and Baja, Mexico, takes the prize over both New Mexico and Colorado.

Readers’ Choice: Santiago’s

The tiny Antojitos Colombianos isn’t polished or glamorous, but the service is genuine and friendly, and the cheery dining room rings with laughter and the sound of forks hitting plates. Antojitos, the “little desires” of Latin American street food, are the specialty here, from crunchy empanadas to fat arepas to unusual aborrajados oozing hot cheese and guava paste from their deep-fried plantain shells. Go early for pandebonos, perfectly spherical yuca-flour buns with a cheesy surprise inside; return at lunch for a platter of bandeja paisa, loaded with beans, rice, chicharrones, steak, sausage and plantain, that will hold off hunger for the rest of the day. But as soon as a new day dawns, you’ll crave another round of these little desires.

Readers’ Choice: Cafe Brazil

Seattle import Rhein Haus took over the former Old Chicago space in LoDo in late 2015, adding a second floor, beautiful Teutonic bars in dark, ornate woods and indoor bocce for those who can’t sit down with their stein of German lager. But you should sit down, whether at the bar or a booth, for a full-on meal of northern European specialties, including a handful of housemade sausages, cheesy spaetzle or the intimidating Schweinschaxe. No, that’s not the name of your towering, blond-braided waitress; it’s an oven-roasted pork shank the size of your head that even the most robust Gunters and Gretels will have a tough time finishing.

Readers’ Choice: Rhein Haus

They don’t make them like they used to — but Lechuga’s marches on anyway, an old-school Italian joint where you can order pasta by the bucket and square pizzas (with green-chile strips, like a true Denverite!). Lechuga’s is one of the last red-sauce joints left on Denver’s Northside, in a section once known as “Little Italy.” Newcomers to Denver, please understand that “canoli” means something different here; Lechuga’s signature dish isn’t a dessert, but rather your choice of a meatball, sausage or sausage-and-jalapeño combo wrapped in dough with a little bit of cheese in the mix, baked and then smothered, if that’s how you like it. Make it a meal with the famous “spanoli” plate — two mini canolis and a side of spaghetti. With a $4.95 all-you-can-eat Tuesday night spaghetti special and lunch deals every weekday, Lechuga’s is a tasty reminder that here in the Mile High City, we like our Italian food greasy and cheap, served up hot in a place that feels suspended in time.

Readers’ Choice: Gaetano’s

When Andrea Frizzi moved Il Posto from its cubby on East 17th Avenue to a sleek bi-level cube in RiNo, we held our breath: Would the new address be a good home for this restaurant’s semi-chaotic charm? We needn’t have worried. Il Posto 2.0 presents some of the team’s best cooking yet, from new meditations on its always-stellar risotti to a masterful pappardelle with pork ragu to a showy and delicious beef tallow candle (impossible at the old address, says Frizzi, because there just wasn’t enough space to make candles). And despite its more grown-up vibe, this space is infused with the old Il Posto magic: Frizzi bobs around frenetically kissing the cheeks of friends and strangers alike, wine from an expertly curated list pours freely and easily, and the energy of the kitchen spills out from an open window beneath a sign that suggests sending the cooks a six-pack…of Jack Daniel’s. As a bonus, Il Posto now has one of the best tables in Denver, a second-level corner seat that looks out on the Denver skyline. Trying to impress someone? Request it.

Readers’ Choice: Gaetano’s

If the charming dining room of Cafe Marmotte doesn’t win you over from the moment you walk in, the creations of chef/co-owner Mark Reggiannini will. The menu is French to the core but displays originality in execution. For example, the French onion soup isn’t the standard brown broth topped with soggy toast, but is presented as a light and frothy purée with a single deep-fried square of Gruyère floating on top. Coq au vin is stained deep burgundy from its red-wine bath and sits atop bacon mashed potatoes that somehow remain light and airy. Duck — as breast and confit of leg — comes with tart kumquat jam and berry agrodulce, both of which cut right through the rich duck fat. For a special night out, Marmotte’s wine list goes deep, but you can also go cheap if you grab a stool at the four-seater bar; there you’ll find coq au vin and a glass of wine for $25 nightly. A great deal? Mais oui!

Readers’ Choice: Bistro Vendôme

The designation “Middle Eastern” is a vague and shifting notion that doesn’t exactly encapsulate the spectrum of cuisine cooked from Morocco to Pakistan, from Turkey to eastern Africa. So forgive us if Sudan Cafe doesn’t fit neatly into standard notions of where the Middle East begins and ends; you’ll understand once you try the kitchen’s spice-laden ful — soft-cooked beans served as breakfast with eggs or at lunch on a crusty baguette — or Egyptian-style koshari, a hearty dish of lentils, rice and pasta topped with tomato sauce and onions fried to a crispy dark brown. While the dishes seem new and different, they have familiar flavors and spices, including cumin and garlic; you’ll also find lamb and falafel on the menu. But you’ll also be reminded of Ethiopian cooking if you order molokhia, a slippery green soup made with jute leaves and served with housemade injera flatbread. Herbed coffee and sweet mint tea are a great finish to a warm and filling meal at this friendly cafe; just leave your map at home.

Readers’ Choice: Jerusalem

As the name of this restaurant suggests, the specialty at Bawarchi Biryani Point is a rice dish called biryani, the pride of Hyderabad, India. While Bawarchi is part of a large chain of restaurants that stretches throughout the U.S., the company’s origins are in Hyderabad, and the aromatic rice served at this Centennial outpost will make you forget for just a moment that you’re sitting in a strip-mall eatery somewhere southeast of the Denver Tech Center. Goat and chicken biryani both deserve high praise here, but consider adding an order of dosa — giant, crispy crepes filled with your choices of curries — or a bowl of vegetarian malai kofta loaded with pillowy meatless meatballs. The restaurant is usually packed with homesick Hyderabad natives and Centennial residents who have followed their noses to the cloud of spices wafting out the front door, so be patient if you have to wait for a table — you’ll be glad you did.

Readers’ Choice: Little India

For years, Ras Kassa’s was the only Ethiopian option for folks in Boulder County — but then the quaint eatery, run by chef Tsehay Hailu, was forced to close in early 2015 because of redevelopment (you can thank the new Google office campus for that). Hailu limped along for more than a year in a temporary location at Boulder’s Broker Inn with a takeout-only menu, and while the food was still great, we’re glad to see Ras Kassa’s settle in at its new permanent home in Lafayette. Customers who’ve followed Hailu for nearly thirty years can once again enjoy Ethiopian hospitality with honey wine, tangy injera bread and some of the best vegetarian offerings around — no small feat in Boulder County. Meat lovers will also enjoy the spicy kitfo with collard greens, housemade cheese and rich lamb stew. Welcome back, Ras Kassa’s.

Readers’ Choice: Queen of Sheba

Head for Edgewater if you like your Thai spicy. US Thai Cafe brings the heat with force and flavor, but it’s not just a gimmick. Thai chiles enhance and balance massive amounts of other spices — galangal, lemongrass, garlic, kaffir lime leaf and ginger, to name a few. Curries are thick with the pulverized pulp of said seasonings (get the brick-red massaman if you doubt us), while dressings on papaya salads and larb assert themselves with lime and fish sauce. Of course, you needn’t destroy your tastebuds to get a taste of great Thai here; just order lower than usual on the sliding scale of heat. Or go all out — and then go jump in a lake. Sloan’s Lake, that is.

Readers’ Choice: Taste of Thailand

You never forget your first love, and Pho 79 was one of our first deep dives into the world of pho. Back then (before years began with a 2), the noodle house was just a hole in the wall with a few booths and wall murals, but over the decades, Pho 79 on South Federal has expanded and gained polish suitable to a veteran in the area’s pho game. The quality of the broth remains a constant, though, with subtle beef flavor and warming star anise in the background. Pho fans might argue about the benefits of a light and delicate broth versus a richer, heavier soup; here the pot simmers all day so the pho gets more flavorful as the day goes on. It’s packed full, too: Pho 79 doesn’t skimp on the meat, so there’s always plenty of quality steak, brisket, flank and other cuts. A tip from Pho 79 old-timers: Order a salty limeade with your pho for a curiously refreshing beverage that brings out the best in the broth.

Readers’ Choice: Pho 95

If there’s one secret to understanding Denver dining, it’s that the best food is often hiding out in a nondescript strip mall. Vinh Xuong Bakery II is tucked into one such mall, and the bright and airy coffee shop not only makes some of the best sandwiches around, but is kind on the wallet, too. At lunch, you can grab a grilled pork banh mi on a flaky hunk of French bread, pair it with a Vietnamese iced coffee and a mildly sweet and chewy sesame ball, and come away with change from a ten-buck bill…after tipping. From the baguettes to the cured and pressed deli meats, everything is made in-house, so this steal of a meal is consistently good on every single visit.

The former owners of Saigon Bowl opened Saigon Basil in Northglenn nearly four years ago, bringing a taste of Federal Boulevard’s Little Saigon district to the northern suburb. This is far from just a simple pho joint, however; you’ll find a menu as thick as a phone book, each dish dialed in with vibrant Vietnamese herbs, seasonings and ingredients. What the restaurant calls “Everyday Favorites” would be specials at most other places, everything from shrimp wrapped in a thin jacket of marinated beef to rich and satisfying bun bo Hue (pho’s burlier cousin) to bun bowls topped with pungent meats. For something truly special, try the lau do bien (a simmering hot pot brimming with seafood) or whole basil-fried fish. And as a measure of the kitchen’s skill, don’t miss the banh xeo, a crispy egg-and-rice-flour pancake studded with pork and shrimp. Miles may separate Saigon Basil from South Federal Boulevard, but Northglenn can lay claim to a little taste of Little Saigon.

Readers’ Choice: New Saigon

The traditional Chinese menu isn’t exactly hidden at New Peach Garden; the dinner menu touts such family-style dishes as cumin lamb, tomato with egg, and something called “homeland tastes” — a combination of sautéed eggplant, potato and green pepper. The undisputed king of this collection, though, is the unceremoniously named pork sandwich — really rou jia mo, one of Chinese cooking’s simplest and tastiest treats. New Peach Garden slits open firm, oven-baked flatbread and stuffs it with stewed pork chopped with green chiles, which impart a zip of racy heat. Savory pork drippings soften the flatbread as you proceed, though never enough to make the sandwich soggy, so you get a bit of crunch with every mouthful of unctuous pig. Since there’s so much to sample on this menu, we recommend you order this handheld wonder as an appetizer. But don’t offer to share it: Since it’s so precariously packaged, you’re liable to lose a lot of the filling (and thus the balanced magic of each bite) if you attempt to cut it in half.

This Denver Tech Center strip-mall restaurant, which still bears the “Blue Ocean” sign of its predecessor, offers an array of traditional Chinese dishes, from noodles hand-pulled to order in the back of the restaurant to dapanji, or big tray chicken, to hand-formed Sichuan wontons stewed in chili oil. But the showpiece at Little Chengdu is the stove atop your table, where you can cook up your own hot pot. Choose a broth, designate a spice level (be aggressive with your preference if you really like heat), and then order your produce and protein. We recommend starting with tofu skin, lamb slices, lotus root and enoki mushrooms and finishing with noodles and greens, but Little Chengdu serves all of its hot pot all-you-can-eat style, so don’t be shy. While you wait for your pot to boil, wander back to the condiment bar and mix up the sauce in which you’ll dip the cooked morsels that you fish from the pot. Sesame oil is a fairly traditional base, but you can go wild from there. Hot damn!

Dim sum parlors originated as roadside snack stops for weary travelers, but today the daytime feast can be an hours-long, destination-worthy affair. In Denver, you’ll find the heaviest concentration of buns and dumplings around the intersection of Federal Boulevard and Alameda Avenue, where several restaurants serve up cartfuls of transportive delicacies. The collection is most impressive at Empress Seafood Restaurant, where waitresses push trolleys full of such staples as pork-stuffed shu mai, shrimp-filled har gao, crispy turnip cakes and peppery pork buns. You can order other specialties from the menu, including delicate crabmeat dumplings, pork ribs in black-bean sauce, and pan-fried bean curd (i.e. tofu skin) roll. We never miss an opportunity to eat Empress’s custard buns; the doughy puffs crack open into sweet, eggy centers. Like all the dim sum purveyors in this corner of the Mile High, Empress sees huge crowds on weekends; go on a weekday if you want a more leisurely paced lunch.

Readers’ Choice: Star Kitchen

Sunflower Asian Cafe’s owners hail from Jiangsu Province, but ask a server what to order from the traditional Chinese menu (you’ll need to request it), and she’ll point you to dishes originating in Sichuan. Heed her advice, because the kitchen does masterful work with tingly Sichuan peppercorns and spice, and its less-spicy Sichuan fare is worth your attention, too. Start with the tea-smoked eel and maybe some spicy cucumbers, then work your way through spicy fried chicken, pepper-smacked dan dan noodle soup and fiery Sichuan-style boiled fish. From other provinces represented on the menu, the Nanjing salt duck, a Jiangsu specialty, is worth exploring if you’ve got a large group; the cold preparation is so savory it almost tastes cured. You’ll also want to try the Yangzhou combo fried rice studded with seafood, Chinese sausage and peas. And because you should always eat your vegetables, don’t miss the dry-fried green beans.

Readers’ Choice: Hop Alley/Imperial Chinese (tie)

Don’t let the fact that Tofu House is a franchise put you off: This string of restaurants stretches to central Seoul, where multiple locations of a restaurant are an indicator of excellence. True to its name, the restaurant specializes in tofu, a custardy version of which is tucked into a dozen or so stews, mixing with oyster and clam plus mushrooms, kimchi, pork or Spam. The classic version blends the bean curd with shellfish in a spicy broth (add an egg if you’d like); the power move here is to order it as part of a combination so that you can also sample some of Tofu House’s barbecued bulgogi, spicy pork or squid. Combination meals are built for a group, and they include a small collection of barchan — the kimchi here is exceptional — plus a small fried fish, which you can order bone-in or bone-out. Spoon your soup over japgokbap (Korean multigrain rice), and pair your meal with a bottle of makgeolli, a semi-sweet, tart, fizzy rice wine that goes nicely with spicy food. When you inevitably return to Tofu House, consider also exploring the heady oxtail soup or the cauldrons filled with rice, meat, kimchi and seaweed; they may not get marquee billing, but they’re superb offerings nonetheless.

Readers’ Choice: Dae Gee

Sushi chef Corey Baker garnered such a reputation for his omakase feasts, customers sought him out at Sushi Den and Sushi Sasa — Denver’s sushi pioneers — when they wanted a customized slate of fish. Omakase, then, is what you should order at Sushi Ronin, where you’ll find Baker today; the chef’s choice menu gives you a little taste of everything this restaurant does. And you should order it at the sushi bar, where Baker will tailor his picks specifically to you. He’ll pass you such exotic specimens as Spanish mackerel and monkfish liver (basically the foie gras of the sea) if he thinks you’ll like them, and add flourishes to his nigiri based on what you tell him about your own palate. If omakase is not quite your speed, Ronin is still worth a stop: The restaurant offers cuts of fish not available at many other places, and deals with them respectfully, making each bite a true pleasure.

Readers’ Choice: Sushi Den

What’s an izakaya? In short, it’s a Japanese pub with food intended to go with drinks. But to experience for yourself how the izakaya concept translates to the hip LoHi neighborhood, head over to Mizu Izakaya, which opened at the end of 2016 in a corner space that had once seemed doomed and now is booming. Yes, Mizu offers sushi, but that’s not the focal point of the menu. Instead, think Japanese tapas and order from the binchotan menu — skewers and other small bites cooked over oak charcoal at high heat. Black cod, pork belly and marinated eel are a good start; then try something fried, like frog-leg karaage or whole quail doused in guajillo teriyaki. There’s so much to choose from you’ll need several trips to sample your way through, with sake, Colorado craft beers or food-friendly house cocktails to wash it all down. Don’t say cheers, say kanpai!

Readers’ Choice: Sushi Den

You forgot to grab a hostess gift for the friends who’ll be housing you on your vacation! Not to worry: Head to the C Concourse and Tamales by La Casita, where you can order great homemade tamales — the “Mile High traditional” version made by the Sandoval family for more than forty years — packaged for travel. Calm your nerves over the near-miss with a few beers and some solid Mexican food, then grab your to-go bag, a perfect taste of Colorado for your hosts. Carry on!

When twelve shuttered a few years ago and Jeff Osaka went off to pursue casual ventures (Osaka Ramen, Sushi-Rama, Denver Central Market), we weren’t sure he’d ever make a return to fine dining. Thank goodness he did, because 12@MADISON offers something this town — well, every town — needs more of. Tucked in the heart of Congress Park, 12@MADISON is that rare blend of impeccable and approachable, making it the perfect neighborhood restaurant. With a menu of small plates clustered in categories — soup/salad, vegetables, pastas, seafood, lighter proteins, heavier meats, etc. — there are a hundred ways to craft a meal, all of them affordable, all of them delicious. One night, you might start with grilled rainbow carrots with labneh and dukkah, a fragrant Egyptian spice blend, before sharing a bowl of curried quinoa congee and short rib raviolo in brodo. Another night, the hamachi with grapefruit and oranges catches your eye, followed by five-spice skirt steak with tatsoi. Menus change with the seasons, so even if these delights are no longer available, whatever you happen to find surely will be, with flavors that are global without being trendy, smart without being pretentious, and seasonal in all the right ways. Wisely structured desserts and a solid bar program — think gin over ice cubes made of beet juice — mean that this neighborhood gem won’t stay a secret for long.

Readers’ Choice: Avelina

Kyle Mendenhall spent nearly a decade helming the burners at the Kitchen, expanding the restaurant’s farm-to-table mission from one dining room in Boulder to cities across the country. “And then that came to an end,” he says, which sent the chef into a spiral of self-reflection. He decided to home in on what was important to him, then look for an opportunity that would allow him to check those boxes. He was in the midst of pulling together his own restaurant concept when the team at Arcana came knocking, and they eventually wooed him into accepting the executive-chef position there. Working with Arcana’s desire to redefine what it means to be an American restaurant, Mendenhall organized his approach to food around heritage, seasonality, regionality, relationships and preservation. That winning combination has pushed the chef to a new creative level. Arcana’s dinner menu is built around strange and underutilized local ingredients (salanova roots and leek powder), imaginative constructions (masa dumplings dressed like tamales and potatoes with cod roe) and arresting precision in execution (one of the best lamb T-bones we’ve ever had). The kitchen cans produce, bakes its own bread and makes pastrami in-house, and it supports local farmers by creating dishes (radish tarts, recently) out of whatever its providers have as surplus. Still, Arcana is not pretentious — it’s a humble celebration of the finest ingredients Colorado offers, a down-to-earth presentation of a new way to think about food. Above all, it’s a reflection of a very talented chef.

So you dig all things retro, and like those ’50s magazine ads, you like to putter in the kitchen with a cocktail glass in hand. Stir Cooking School is the perfect setting in which to learn a new recipe, get a lesson from a professional chef or delve into an exotic cuisine — all while sipping beer, wine or mixed drinks from the school’s full bar. Family cooking nights are fun, too, if you want to bring the kids, or you can pit your culinary chops against your date on Iron Chef nights, complete with a secret ingredient (and hints from the experts to make sure dinner comes out right). Tie on your apron and grab a martini for a classic, and classy, cooking class.

Readers’ Choice: Cook Street School

As if the magnificent Union Station wasn’t already one of Denver’s most appealing destinations, now every Saturday from June through October, the Union Station Farmers’ Market brings together local growers and restaurants to sell their fresh produce, regionally produced cheeses, homemade gelato, dried beans and pasta, baked goods and much, much more. The event is organized by the behemoth Boulder Farmers’ Market, but we find that good things come in smaller packages, too. Among the forty or so vendors, you’ll find popular options such as Fruition Farms & Dairy, Black Cat Farms, Fior di Latte, Haystack Mountain Cheese and Mile High Fungi. There’s always a chef demo from a local restaurant, using ingredients from the market and handing out samples right there. Don’t come hungry unless you’re prepared to buy, though, because the smells of just-baked pastries alone will do you in.

Readers’ Choice: South Pearl Street

Cutting it close is the way to go when traveling by air; time wasted while wedged into an uncomfortable airport chair is time you’ll never get back — unless you choose to while away your extra travel time at Elway’s. If it’s your first day on vacation, you won’t mind splurging on steak and eggs, a Colorado whiskey or a $19 burrito — the latter worth every penny because it’s stuffed with enough chicken-fried steak to easily feed two adults. Business travelers will feel at ease surrounded by dark wood and other suits and ties, and an expense account means you can spring for that twenty-ounce prime rib dinner. With surroundings so swank and food so good, you might choose to miss your plane.

Readers’ Choice: Root Down

You either love or loathe these bathrooms — which is appropriate, since the restaurant that houses them has two identities: Black Eye (the coffee shop) and White Lies (the cocktail/dinner spot). We happen to love them, and we know we’re not alone; the art-filled restrooms are commemorated in many photos on Instagram. The women’s houses two stunning neon-art pieces, both existentially melancholy; our favorite proclaims: “Forever is Composed of Nows.” Every detail in these rooms, from the classic white-and-black tiles to the books on tape read to you softly as you sit on the toilet (thanks, Christopher Walken!) is inspired by Poet’s Row, the aged apartment complex to the north. We think that we shall never see/A prettier place in Denver to pee.

Take a trip across the continents without worrying about getting hit with a dose of gluten, whether from an inadvertent splash of soy sauce or careless cross-contamination. Since it opened in 2011, Linger has made a point of serving those with dietary restrictions and preferences — so gluten-free options are clearly marked on the menu, and the kitchen staff is trained in getting it right. The menu changes regularly, but there are generally more than fifteen options that are either gluten-free by nature or can be made so upon request. And because small plates are the name of the game here, you can have variety without anxiety, from Indian masala dosa made with rice and lentil flour to cricket and cassava-flour empanadas — because crickets are gluten-free!

Readers’ Choice: Adelitas

Perfect for lunch or for rounding out a small-plates-style dinner, the Burmese salad at ChoLon has become an instant classic. A riff on the laphet thoke of Burma and northern Thailand, this hearty salad combines kale, romaine, cabbage, oranges and beets in a clever marriage of two worlds. Shaved, candied ginger, green Thai chiles, fish sauce and fermented tea-leaf vinaigrette evoke Southeast Asia, the corner of the world that chef-owner Lon Symensma knows so well. But the so-called trail mix feels just like home, with toasted coconut, dried mung beans, candied peanuts, black and white sesame seeds and pepitas. These goodies are presented on a clear tray that’s tipped tableside by the server, giving the salad the textural contrast we’ve come to expect — and love — from Symensma.

Chef Gabe Wyman’s tasty take on the ubiquitous roasted Brussels sprouts utilizes the fermented power of delicious homemade kimchi, coconut and sunchokes. The result is a plate that makes the passé vegetables taste fresh and new, as if they were always meant to get an Asian kick. This seasonal starter comes and goes, but the chef assures us that it’s so popular, its return is inevitable.

Vital Root isn’t so much a vegetarian restaurant as a lifestyle choice. Developed by Justin Cucci’s Edible Beats, this breezy, counter-service spot has the same contemporary flair that distinguishes the group’s other restaurants, including Linger and Root Down. So instead of meat-free renditions of yesterday’s heavy comfort food, you’ll find veggie-based versions of all the global dishes you crave. Japanese and Indian bowls with cauliflower rice are especially tempting, as are banh mi tacos and dosas with mint chutney. The kitchen only uses organic oils, unrefined sugars and organic flours (and 99 percent of the menu can be made vegan and gluten-free upon request), making Vital Root the restaurant your body deserves, whether or not you require the restriction-friendly menu.

Readers’ Choice: City, O’ City

When you crave macaroni and cheese, you can go for the basic box — or treat yourself to the spectacular version that chef-owner Dana Rodriguez turns out at Work & Class. Her simple yet flavorful take on the dish starts with six-year-aged Wisconsin cheddar, butter, onion, fresh thyme, cream, Parmesan and breadcrumbs on top; sometimes she spikes it with roasted poblanos, chipotle peppers or smoked tomato. But even without those embellishments, a small cast-iron pot of this mac and cheese will soon have you pasta point of no return.

Readers’ Choice: Steuben’s

It’s not often that you find the perfect balance of juicy, spicy and salty in a chicken dish, but that’s exactly what chef Paul Reilly has created with his pollo allo diavolo. Inspired by a classic recipe from the Lazio region in Italy, each chile-infused, pasture-raised bird is marinated for 24 to 48 hours and then cooked on the restaurant’s wood fire grill over Colorado white oak. Don’t chicken out: For $21 at lunch or dinner, you can grab a plate (with sides) and renew your love of poultry.

If you love French dip sandwiches, head to Brider, Steven Redzikowski’s casual eatery, right now. For Brider’s wagyu French dip, succulent wagyu from 7X Beef is sliced thin and placed between two halves of a ciabatta roll from Grateful Bread, the perfect vehicle to hold the meat, along with mustard, horseradish aioli and melted Gruyère. The sandwich winds up just the right thickness to stand up to a dip in the luscious au jus. This classic and classy lunch is $14, but upgrade your meal for $2 and switch the chips for the daily fresh salad; the crisp greens help cut the richness of this superb sandwich.

Don’t be surprised if you covet the cutlery at Hearth & Dram: You won’t be alone. Each sleek piece was made by the international company Fortessa for this new restaurant by Union Station, pushing its role as a “modern-day saloon” by mimicking tableware from the Gold Rush era. Also cutting-edge and custom-made: the steak knives that hang from the side of your bone-in ribeye or smoked-sirloin entrees.

A good steak tartare is the pinnacle of treat-yourself eating: velvety bits of bovine blend with tart and umami flavors to prime the palate at the outset of a meal, while nuanced texture and taste encourage you to savor each bite. The best place to experience such luxury in Denver is at Acorn, the wood-fired restaurant tucked into the Source. Chef Steven Redzikowski’s kitchen starts its tartare with a major upgrade to the meat: wagyu beef, which has a softer texture and better marbling than the tenderloin that usually forms the basis of this dish. From there, the kitchen adds lemon for acidity and honey mustard for zip, and tops the raw steak with verdant celery, spicy radish, a generous dusting of pungent Pecorino-Romano cheese and, crucially, a hefty sprinkle of black pepper, which really makes it pop. Paired with cracker-crisp slices of garlic-and-poppyseed-forward everything lavash, this is a dish you’ll want to eat with a tiny fork while sipping a glass of expensive bubbles. The bubbles, at least, can be accommodated.

A decade ago, you might have been forgiven for blowing through the stretch of I-70 between Denver and the Eisenhower tunnel. But now you have good reason to slow your roll and exit the highway, and not just for a reprieve from weekend traffic. At the Silver Plume turnoff, make a beeline to the Bread Bar, a charming cocktail haven that’s built into a former bakery and takes its inspiration from the tiny mining town it calls home. Bread Bar’s owners enlisted the help of the crew at Denver’s Way Back for drinks; their libations incorporate mountain flavors into classics and broadcast Colorado history via their names. On sunny days and during the warm months, take your drink out to Bread Bar’s patio, a dog-friendly oasis infused with the vibe of this town; at night, keep a lookout for live music and pop-up food. This bar is only open Friday through Sunday — but you’re a weekend warrior anyway, aren’t you?

Colt & Gray has never billed itself as a steakhouse, but seven and a half years into its tenure on Platte Street, it doesn’t take much squinting to see that this restaurant does a very good imitation of a steakhouse. This is one of the few restaurants in Denver dry-aging steak in-house; its grass-fed beef waits 21 to 28 days before it ever sees a plate. This gives the steak a deeper flavor, a subtle and tasty funk and a more tender texture — and it puts Colt & Gray in company with some of the best old-school steakhouses in the world, which age their own beef to ensure correct flavor. The meat goes on the menu in three cuts: a filet, a New York strip and a massive porterhouse, which is priced by the ounce. The kitchen cooks these steaks in brown butter, which exaggerates the savory crust around the edges and traps juice inside. You can have your steak with bordelaise or béarnaise, but we prefer ours plain: Beef this good doesn’t really need sauce. The rest of the Colt & Gray menu fits nicely within an elevated version of the steakhouse paradigm: refined but classic sides (broccoli with anchovy vinaigrette, crispy rosemary potatoes), appetizers fit for a meat-centric meal (oysters, foie gras, frog legs), a rich dessert list that includes potted cheesecake and sticky toffee pudding, and a well-curated wine and cocktail list that’s likely to please you as much as your meal. Moreover, every storied steakhouse has its burger, and Colt & Gray is no exception — though to find it, you’ll have to head downstairs to Ste. Ellie (where you’ll also find a nice flatiron steak frites). The version here is ground in-house using trimmings from other steaks and aged for fourteen days, which gives it a bit of that same funk present in the steaks; add Gruyère to exaggerate it.

Readers’ Choice: Guard and Grace

At night, the low-slung roof and garish yellow sign of the Columbine Steak House beckon like an Edward Hopper painting, though perhaps without the pervading sense of loneliness. Through the window, passersby on Federal Boulevard can witness a throng of waiting diners, often spilling out the front door, queued up to order a steak from the grill man as flames leap behind him. The steaks are simple and cheap, kissed by fire, leaking fat and blood, flecked with a touch of salt and pepper. Columbine has been serving steaks for more than a half-century, and what you’ll get on your plate is exactly what your parents and grandparents would have gotten here. The diner side is strictly no-nonsense — just pay and eat and make room for newcomers. At the bar, the pace is a little more relaxed; just don’t ask for anything too fancy (meaning anything with more than two ingredients) or you’ll be met with suspicion. Bring cash and leave the coat and tie at home.

The oyster is a deceptively simple food: Open a shell, splash in a little condiment, and slurp. But maximum pleasure in this scenario requires maximum care: You want peak freshness, skilled shucking and thoughtful accoutrement, and Stoic & Genuine, the seafood shrine tucked into Union Station, definitely takes things to the max. The restaurant goes to great lengths to source specimens from the East and West coasts, giving you a chance to taste a seasonally shifting bounty each time you stop by. And you’ll stop by often, because the raw bar handles its oysters as if they were rare gems, serving up iced trays of glittering mollusks with a little horseradish, a little mignonette and maybe a little granita, if you so desire. Stoic & Genuine also has a thoughtfully curated list of wine and cocktails that match well to oysters; we recommend a glass of tart, light Muscadet or a Bloody Mary.

Readers’ Choice: Jax Fish House and Oyster Bar

Denver restaurant maven Troy Guard opened Mister Tuna in the Industry building on Brighton Boulevard in the summer of 2016 to near-instant acclaim. Near-instant, that is, after first-time visitors recovered from dashed expectations that the place was a fish house, based on its fishy moniker and Guard’s Hawaiian upbringing. Sure, you’ll find a little sushi and other fruits of the sea on the menu, but no more than at most modern, upscale eateries. Turns out the name is a reference to the chef/owner’s father, known as Mister Tuna because of his love of sport fishing and scuba diving; a cantankerous family parrot was also given the name. For more background, check the hidden patterns in the stunning wall mural at the far end of the dining room or the tiny Guard family photos in the hallway to the restroom; don’t forget to glance into the kitchen. Guard’s main focus at his newest restaurant (with several more on the way in 2017) is wood-fired cooking, so lamb, chicken, beef, pork, the occasional rabbit and, yes, whole fish see time on the spit over oak flame and charcoal, with marvelous results. A meal here is as eclectic and dazzling as Guard’s own home state.

Chef Nicholas Kayser took over the kitchen at Vesta last fall, ushering in a new era (and ditching the “dipping grill” descriptor) for the twenty-year-old LoDo restaurant. Among Kayser’s new roster of dishes is a lobster cioppino that has its roots in San Francisco’s Italian fishing community, but which the chef has accented with a French flourish. Mussels, clams, shrimp and sea bass all swim together in a saffron-tomato broth, lending flavors both bright and earthy. A curled lobster tail joins the pool party, carrying a saffron rouille straight from the coast of Provence. The dish is so evocative of seaside vacations and wharf-front seafood shacks that diners with fond memories of trips from long ago might get a little misty with nostalgia.

Not until Fish N Beer came along did we realize what a rut Denver’s seafood restaurants had fallen into. Thanks to chef-partner Aniedra Nichols and chef-owner Kevin Morrison of Tacos, Tequila, Whiskey (aka Pinche Tacos), this sardine-can-sized restaurant will leave you craving things you didn’t even know existed. Who could’ve predicted that we’d fall head over heels for whole grilled fish, tiny bones and all, or that smelt fries, made from slender, cornmeal-crusted fish, could be more addictive than their veggie counterparts? Would anyone have thought that blowfish tails could fry up into a lighter, crisper buffalo wing? Or that sea-based charcuterie — e.g., whipped tuna tonnato, smoked fish spread and soy-glazed salmon collar — could be so delicious that the memory of it will haunt you every time you order the standard stuff again? There’s more to this sliver of a restaurant than seafood, including a host of sides that would make any steakhouse proud. Speaking of which, considering that Fish N Beer is a seafood joint, it serves a damn good steak, too.

Readers’ Choice: Jax Fish House and Oyster Bar

A beverage that fell from heaven and by some stroke of luck landed in Denver, the Venetian Cream Coffee at the Molecule Effect is so good, it has to be divine in origin. Buttery-smooth and tooth-achingly sweet, this coffee drink comes straight out of a tap like a swirling tan ribbon of liquid dessert. Served over ice, the chilled concoction is too good to set down. But don’t chug it; this nectar of the gods is really meant to be savored.

Sojourners is the quintessential neighborhood coffee shop, a sneaky little spot tucked away in a strip mall in the Virginia Village neighborhood. Sojo’s, as it’s known by patrons, has walls adorned with local art, plentiful seating options and a true living-room feel that no chain can ever capture. Along with an assortment of specialty lattes and hot tea options, the shop carries local kombucha, baked goods and an assortment of delicious sandwiches — try the West Coaster or the Old Italy — plus paninis, burritos and more. If you’re in a hurry, Sojo’s isn’t the place for you; these baristas take their latte art seriously, crafting beautiful beverages while happily chatting with regulars and newcomers alike. Welcome to the neighborhood.

Sometimes your ability to get a seat can be the determining factor in which coffee shop you go to. Cafe Europa always seems to have a spot open, whether it’s a table for two or a seat on the spacious, sunny patio that can accommodate a big, chatty group. The calm and inviting interior is complemented by music that’s just the right volume, making this the perfect spot for studying or gabbing over a latte. If you’re pulling an all-day study session, there’s a stellar breakfast and lunch menu with plenty of vegetarian options to provide good, healthy brain fuel. One warning: While you’ll be able to find a seat in Cafe Europa, snagging a parking spot is tougher.

In this world of hurry up and wait, personal digital devices have become our steady companions — but not at Pablo’s Coffee on Sixth Avenue. While phones are as ubiquitous here as anywhere, this Denver coffee shop’s absence of wi-fi means more talking, more laughing and more staring into the eyes of your Tinder date (you know, instead of looking down at the screen where you two first met). Grab a cup of joe at this craft-coffee institution — Pablo’s was one of the first indie roasters to stake a claim before the city got hip — and settle into the couch-filled corner living room or take a seat at the small bar top and watch the baristas at work.

The thirty-plus-year-old Racines is everyone’s go-to restaurant, and when we say everyone, we’re including man’s best friend. Dogs are definitely welcome at this Denver institution, which reserves the most prime spot on the two-level patio for pets that want to enjoy the sunshine while their guardians enjoy a hearty meal. There’s even a separate entrance from the sidewalk into the pet-friendly area, and if you want to give your pooch a bit of your breakfast sandwich or a morsel from that mountain of nachos, no one’s going to stop you.

Readers’ Choice: Denver Beer Co.

Cross the threshold of Caffe Sanora and the rowdiness of East Colfax fades away. The place is quiet but not library silent, as a chatty mix of business-casual regulars trickle down from the offices above, gaggles of students meet up for a board game, and other characters pop in off the street for a beer or cup of fresh-brewed coffee and stay for the food. The menu at this small-but-mighty operation includes incredible salads with fine cheeses and seasonal berries, thick and creamy soups, bold breakfast items and quiche options. The atmosphere encourages lingering: Large windows let in the sunlight and a mix of couches, tables and a perfect-sized porch ensure ample seating. The service is far from pretentious, a throwback to a time when “What can I get ya?” was the kind of affectionate greeting that could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

If you haven’t given much thought to what coffee roasting does to change the flavor of your morning caffeine, we implore you to buy a bag of whole beans at Huckleberry. As you ponder the head-spinning number of varieties, a barista will swoop in to help: Do you like fruit or chocolate? Light or rich? Something unusual or a straightforward cup of joe? You’ll eventually home in on something unique, perhaps after hearing a story about the growers behind the beans, and later sip it with newfound appreciation for the nuance possible in coffee’s flavor. Mark Mann and Koan Goedman, the masterminds behind this operation, began roasting as a hobby, and as they’ve grown it into a business, they’ve continued to up the quality and expand choices. Coffees rotate seasonally here, so there’s reason to stop by often — or get a subscription and let the shop send you a new brew every month.

The best coffeehouses are more than spots to grab coffee or plug into the wi-fi; they serve as community gathering spots, places where people get together and talk about real life. Prodigy is even more than that: It’s also a nonprofit workshop where paid youth apprentices looking for a foot up in the employment world are put to work, learning from experience and pre-employment training. That training starts with the fine art of making a better cuppa joe, from the locally roasted Allegro beans forward; Prodigy also instills the tenets of customer service and running a successful, community-driven business. This east-side gathering spot serves coffee with a conscience…and plenty of flavor.

Readers’ Choice: Corvus Coffee DTC

.For chef-owner Clint Wangsnes, the aha moment came after his child was born. “There were just no real options for the family…to get good food,” he recalls. Fast-forward two and a half years, and his fast-casual spot, Chop Shop, now has two locations and a loyal following of folks who can’t get enough of his heaping salads and globally inspired plates. But Wangsnes didn’t just set out to feed adults. He’s cooking for little ones, too, which is why the kids’ menu includes a range of options for picky and slightly more adventurous eaters, all with a healthy bent. Traditionalist tots will enjoy mac and cheese, a cheeseburger or a grilled cheese sandwich. Others will appreciate food that looks more like what the adults are eating, such as grilled chicken, steak or fried tofu, with sides of fresh fruit and mashed potatoes. Milk and apple juice provide a welcome change from sugary, carbonated stuff. Before you know it, your kids will be old enough to appreciate the short ribs with hoisin demi-glace that you’re having for dinner. Until then, the kids’ menu at Chop Shop is something you — and they — can feel good about.

Readers’ Choice: Steuben’s

Denver-based Smart Cookie makes all-natural small-batch dog treats from scratch that are available for purchase online and at many local pet-supply stores. But with luck and a little research, you and your pooch just might happen upon the Smart Cookie Barkery Cart — a treat-vending cart on a giant trike — at a variety of flea markets and other public events around town. Or you could throw a doggie birthday party and hire the trike to come to your home. If food trucks are for everyone, shouldn’t dogs have their day, too? Hell, woof!

smartcookietreats.com

Barbecue and ice cream: that’s a winning combination in any book. Churn & Burn offers both, plying Denver’s streets with goofy but delicious creations like a cornbread waffle bowl loaded with smoked meat, mac and cheese, barbecue sauce and coleslaw. But the crew’s traditional barbecue holds its own even without the bells and whistles: slabs of peppery brisket, pulled pork, chicken, hot links, pork belly and even smoked portabello mushrooms all satisfy our prehistoric urge to gorge on proteins cooked over fire. Ice cream flavors change regularly, but expect equally eccentric combos, like an ice cream sandwich made with shortcake cupcakes or brownies. First you burn, then you churn — or switch it up and have dessert first; you’ll love Churn & Burn either way.

churnandburn.siterubix.com

Readers’ Choice: Steuben’s

With development on a tear in Denver, we’re lucky that any mature building manages to survive this growth spurt. And we’re lucky that Snarf’s is doing its bit. Whether the Boulder-born sub chain acquires an old-school brick storefront in the University of Denver neighborhood or a dreamy Googie relic on West 38th Avenue, Snarf’s knows how to treat vintage Denver right. Next up? Snarf’s will turn a vacant Sinclair gas station into a sweet neighborhood hangout on South Broadway.

Watch daybreak over Denver or sunset over the Rockies from this all-hours eatery’s perch above I-70 on Federal Boulevard. Slide into a vinyl booth or swivel on a stool at the counter while you wait for your chicken-fried steak or smothered burrito. The lonely lives of truckers, the frantic conversations of angst-ridden teens jolted with java, the slow shuffle of guests in their golden years: These are the sights and sounds of McCoy’s every night of the week — sights and sounds that come with a free mini-loaf of bread and whipped butter. Pull an all-nighter with no-nonsense waitresses in this classic diner that hasn’t changed in decades, then greet a new dawn with a Tequila Sunrise.

Readers’ Choice: Denver Diner/Pete’s Kitchen (tie)

Ohana Island Kitchen’s tiny storefront space is perpetually warm and sunny, fitting for a restaurant that takes its inspiration from the Hawaiian islands. While Denver is suddenly swimming in poke, this lunch-only joint’s version rises to the top. Raw tuna is the anchor of Ohana’s short counter-service menu, supplemented by other Hawaiian treats like Spam musubi (a bit like a Spam sushi roll) and Hawaiian king sliders (slow-cooked pork on Hawaiian sweet rolls). But we can’t get enough of the spicy poke, whose crowning touch is the textured pop of tobiko roe mixed into spicy mayo. This simple menu begs to be replicated, and we’d be happy if we saw an Ohana in every neighborhood. As it is, though, Ohana is such a catch for LoHi that it often runs out of poke altogether.

Readers’ Choice: Illegal Pete’s

Chicago-style pizza isn’t everyone’s bag, and some folks get all red in the face while proclaiming that it’s not even pizza. We say: Relax. What’s not to like about a buttery, flaky crust, a good, garlicky tomato sauce and a blizzard of mozzarella cheese that forms molten banks against the high edges of the pan? We like Chicago-style even more when it’s served at Denver Deep Dish, which nails the basics while bringing a little Southwest to the game with a green-chile-topped pie. What’s even better? Deep-dish pizza for brunch, with scrambled eggs topped with all manner of breakfasty goodies, including Denver’s own Tender Belly bacon and Polidori sausage. Enough with the Windy City hate; it’s time to get with Denver’s own Chicago-style pie.

Readers’ Choice: Blue Pan Pizza

The ART is filled with fabulous artwork, but nothing beats the views from the fourth-floor Fire Terrace, an extension of the Fire restaurant and lounge. The hotel crowd is usually glittery enough, but at dusk this rooftop patio is bathed in golden light reflected off the History Colorado Center across the street. The patio boasts high-tops, a fire pit and posh cabana seating more suited to a swank beach resort than a downtown hotel, but the entertainment is definitely urban, as are the incredible glimpses you get up and down Broadway. Come for the social hour, which stretches from 3 to 6 p.m. and includes surprisingly good deals for the setting, and stay for twilight and beyond, when taillights twinkle and the scene turns magical.

Readers’ Choice: Linger

There’s an unwritten maxim when it comes to outdoor dining: The better the patio, the worse the restaurant. After all, if you can pack the patio and keep the drinks flowing, who needs good food? But Potager’s half-sunny, half-shaded patio flips that old saw on its end: It’s an integral part of the dining experience. The word “potager” is French for “kitchen garden,” so a seat on chef/owner Teri Rippeto’s hidden patio means you’re surrounded by herbs and vegetables that will make it onto your plate. Potager turns twenty this year, marking two decades of serving wonderful creations inspired by what’s growing right outside the back door. With such longevity in Capitol Hill, Potager’s every dish carries the terroir of the neighborhood.

Readers’ Choice: Colterra Food & Wine

Many Denverites think of the 16th Street Mall as little more than a destination where tourists grab Colorado T-shirts and overpriced beers. But the mall is also home turf for office workers and a growing number of downtown residents. For those folks, and for the rest of us looking for something special to top off a night on the town, ChoLon Modern Asian Bistro shines as a beacon of culinary excellence amid the fast-casuals and street-food kiosks. Chef/owner Lon Symensma’s clever brand of Asian cuisine is a form of entertainment in itself, from the classic ChoLon French onion soup dumplings and kaya toast with egg cloud to newer explorations that go deep into Southeast Asian cooking, like a beautiful Burmese fermented tea-leaf salad. Symensma takes us on a journey he’s made many times himself, showing us the street-hawker eats and the extravagant hotel dinners of his favorite cities. Not content to rest on his laurels, the chef keeps improving both the menu and the setting, with posh new seating for guests, better sound control in the always-packed dining room, and an evolving parade of dishes that show the kitchen at its most creative.

Readers’ Choice: ChoLon Modern Asian Bistro

The excellence of Oak at Fourteenth is apparent from the first sip of a cocktail created by beverage director/co-owner Bryan Dayton to the last taste of short rib or duck breast from chef/co-owner Steven Redzikowski’s menu. The dining room is modern and streamlined, yet still feels warm and inviting, perhaps because of the wood smoke wafting from the kitchen. But whether the sense of comfort comes from that soft, campfire aroma or from the well-trained staff that never misses a beat, dinner at Oak is a full sensory experience, not just another meal. Since you’re here to eat, though, bring a group and indulge in a large-format platter; the impressive ancho-glazed pork shoulder surrounded in roasted — nearly candied, really — seasonal vegetables is a jaw-dropper, even before you take your first bite. Wood-fired cooking has taken over the restaurant scene in Denver and Boulder, but Oak was the trailblazer that made it all possible.

Readers’ Choice: Salt Bistro

We know, we know: Denver Central Market isn’t so much a restaurant as it is a collection of stalls where you can buy everything from coffee to your weekly produce to a meatball sub. But this all-purpose food hall certainly functions as a restaurant, at least during lunch and dinner hours, when neighbors, gawkers and tourists descend on it en masse and post up at long tables with ceviche, pasta, sandwiches and porchetta, paired to all manner of drinks. It also functions as a meeting place, a cocktail bar (thank Curio bar for that), a meat and produce market, a coffee shop and, for Denver’s many freelancers, a de facto office; that versatility ensures the place is packed nearly from when it opens in the morning until it closes late at night. Built into an old antiques warehouse, there’s nothing else in the Mile High quite like it, which may be why Denver Central Market quickly became a neighborhood anchor in one of the fastest-growing parts of the city.

Readers’ Choice: Rioja

Everyone who works in the kitchen at Spuntino has muscular forearms from making pasta on the hand-cranked roller in the basement. That kind of effort goes into every dish and every glass at this intimate Italian eatery, all overseen by Cindhura Reddy and Elliot Strathmann, the husband-and-wife duo who took over Spuntino in 2014. Reddy is the chef; her experience working on rustic farms in Italy inspired dishes that combine rural sensibility with worldly sophistication. You’ll find slow-cooked Colorado goat on one homey plate while marveling at octopus “carpaccio” on another; you’ll wonder how Reddy gets those paper-thin shavings of tentacle to hold together in one postcard-sized slice. Strathmann selects the wines with the eye of a curio collector, presenting vintners and varietals that are hard to find even in Italy. The two keep things grounded in Colorado, though, with local, seasonal ingredients — some of which can be found in Strathmann’s housemade amaros, perfect alongside a tempting dessert.

Readers’ Choice: Fire on the Mountain

The Chowder Room is a little slice of small-town coastal life right on one of Denver’s busiest thoroughfares. The service is warm and gracious, the decor is homey while still displaying a seafaring theme requisite of seafood shops, and the menu from chef/co-owner Matt Stein is affordable and sensible, though not without a few fun surprises (ask about daily and weekly off-menu specials). For a few sparkling oysters, a butter-dripping fillet or a solidly constructed sandwich stuffed with cod, salmon or seasonal treats like lobster or softshell crab, there’s no better stop for the price. And don’t forget the namesake chowder: Classic New England-style leads the way, but the kitchen offers many variations depending on seasonal availability and the chef’s whim. In a sea of glitzier fish houses around town, the Chowder Room is a safe harbor.

Readers’ Choice: Beatrice & Woodsley

With so much great Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai and Mexican cooking happening up and down Federal Boulevard’s busy blocks, a simple American grill can get lost amid the steamy clouds rising from pots of pho and the pungent smoke of roasting chiles. But when the Federal Bar & Grill opened in the former home of Mickey Manor in 2013, it quickly became a standout not just for nailing the basics with great burgers, fries and wings, but for its attention to detail, from picnic-worthy deviled eggs to a beckoning roster of uncommon craft ales to genuinely friendly and snappy service. The Fed, as it’s known to regulars, fills a need for a neighborhood hangout in fast-changing Jefferson Park — something that no amount of tacos, pho or banh mi can replace.

Readers’ Choice: Tarasco’s New Latino Cuisine

With Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery, chef/owner Clint Wangsnes and co-owner Christian Anderson gave residents of Park Hill and Montclair exactly what they needed: a casual hangout for lunch and dinner where families could feel comfortable and order from a menu that doesn’t stoop to the usual fast-casual tricks but still keeps prices low. Sure, you can grab a burger, a salad or a sandwich here, but those sandwiches are stacked with housemade meats like smoked chicken pastrami and slow-roasted sirloin shaved paper-thin. And thanks to Wangsnes’s penchant for sous-vide cooking, favorites like the 48-hour short rib and 72-hour onion soup benefit from long cooking times without adding to customer waits. Peppered with flavors from Thailand, China, Japan and the Mediterranean, Chop Shop’s menu captures the international spirit of Colfax Avenue.

Readers’ Choice: Solera