Frank Silva's no hippie, no rancher-come-lately. He was born on a dairy farm and has been in the cattle business all his life. And you can hear the affection in his voice as he describes how smart his cows are and talks about their temperamental quirks. He mixes the feed himself, and also grazes the animals on pasture. At the spotless family-run abbatoir where his Highland cattle are eventually processed, music plays to keep the animals calm. Silva's can provide bone marrow and particular cuts on request, and the meat is so delicious it's on the menu at many of Denver's top restaurants. But you can get it yourself at the Boulder Farmers' Market.
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