In the nearly three decades that it's been in business, not much has changed at Queen of Sheba Ethiopian Restaurant. Although Colfax has grown around it, the tiny strip-mall restaurant still boasts some of the city's best African food. What sets it apart from other Ethiopian eateries — and there are a lot within a stone's throw — is the homestyle cooking of proprietress Zodi Aboye, who acts as host, server and chef. The smell of rich, warm spices fills its cozy quarters, which are decorated with folk art and photos from the horn of Africa. Dishes are eaten by hand, using only the tangy unleavened injera as a vessel. Platters of flavorful stewed meats and vegetables offer a sampling of options, and the comfort foods, like lamb and lentils, are savored best with a cup of seasoned tea or honey wine. Because of Queen of Sheba's limited seating and popularity, reservations are recommended.