Buffalo pops up in the weirdest places in this town. Tante Louise (4900 East Colfax Avenue), for example, offers a potentially stunning Great Plains buffalo ribeye with a pine-nut-and-sage beurre sauce. But be warned: You should order the meat cooked no more than medium, and rare is actually better; because…
The sultans of sirloin who blithely run up $300 dinner tabs at gilt palaces like Morton’s and Del Frisco’s would never deign to set foot in the Columbine Steak House & Lounge. At the scruffy Columbine, on scruffy Federal Boulevard, they’ve been tossing skinny slabs of beef on the fire…
Q: On Saturday, I had something called “duck prosciutto” at a chi-chi wedding; on Sunday, more duck prosciutto showed up during a fancy dinner at the Brown Palace compliments of the chef at the Palace Arms. No matter what you call it, it was delicious — but isn’t prosciutto supposed…
Fondue brings out a person’s true nature. First there are the control freaks, the folks who begin coordinating the fondue forks the second the pots start heating up. “Okay, Sally, Jim and I will use the court bouillon for the first fifteen minutes while you guys cook in oil, and…
When the Melting Pot opened, it featured one of the cheesiest campaigns imaginable. Diners were supposed to order their servers to “fondue me” — and, in fact, the resulting service was so bad that those diners probably would have preferred being dropped in boiling oil to suffering through another meal…
In a business famous for ruining relationships, Bruce Rahmani and Lupe Gonzalez are a rare pair. Since 1979, when Rahmani was the general manager of the Quality Inn at I-25 and Speer Boulevard where Gonzalez was the kitchen’s sous chef — under executive chef Radek Cerny! — the duo has…
Q: I have a friend flying in from Istanbul for two months. I would like to take her to a Turkish restaurant for her first night here, but I couldn’t find any Turkish restaurants in your Best of Denver. Does Westword know of any in the metro area? A: While…
Question: What do you get when two California lawyers decide to open up their own pizzeria? Answer: A lot of pizzerias. But the California Pizza Kitchen is no joke. As of last week, when a second Colorado location opened at FlatIron Crossing, there are 83 full-service CPKs, as they like…
It was the first restaurant I reviewed for Westword , and in the years since, both Fratelli’s and I have gone through a few changes. Fratelli’s made its debut as a Colorado pizza kitchen more than twenty years ago, which puts it way ahead of the California Pizza Kitchen (see…
When I moved to Denver seven years ago, fellow transplants warned me that I’d never find a pizza that compared with the ones I missed back East. For a long time that was true, but gradually I found a few longtime Denver pizzerias, many of them also good red-sauce joints,…
Q:My husband and I would like to suggest two new categories for your Best of Denver list. We have been searching for the best butcher and the best fish market in town, and we thought you could help. A:The Best of Denver 2000 just came out, but I’d hate for…
Skydiner, bo-biner, banana-fana fo-finer, fee-fi mo-miner, Skydiner. Before they opened their second venture, the principals from The Hornet — Dave French, Brewster Hanson, Paul Greaves and Lisa Quinn — held a contest to name the space they’d taken over at 1700 Vine Street, the spot long occupied by Juanita’s Uptown…
With chef Karl Rinehart now at Skydiner (see review), the buzz is over what his successor, former Wolfgang Puck and Strings chef Kim Adams, will be cooking up at the Hornet (82 Broadway), where she started just last week. “Kim is from New Orleans,” explains Hornet marketing manager Margo Gillaspy,…
Q: Recently I ate at a very nice restaurant and had the smoked-salmon appetizer. The appetizer was thinly sliced, velvety in texture and had a very nice flavor. It was just like lox. So my question is: What is the difference between smoked salmon and lox? A: Back in the…
You are not finished,” the seventy-year-old waiter scolded as he grabbed a spoon and scooped the bottom out of my seafood-filled potato boat, plopping the sauce-soaked spuds mound in the center of my plate. “You eat this, and then you are finished.” I wasn’t about to argue. After all, this…
My voice mail keeps filling with calls regarding Sacre Bleu, at 410 East Seventh Avenue (“Good God!”, July 13), which continues to inspire much local chat as well as national interest: GQ recently visited the restaurant for a story about Denver’s must-dos, and owner Julie Payne says the New York…
In your worst nightmare, you’re absolutely famished and nothing but a gorgeous hot pastrami on light rye will do. But you’re also in Denver, 2,000 miles from Manhattan, nagged in the depth of your hunger by visions — rivers of creamed herring, big bowls filled with half-sour pickles, mountains of…
Q. While I like to go to sushi bars, my budget just can’t handle it. But I love sushi, and was wondering if there’s any place in town that you’d recommend for buying sushi-quality fish. A. Buying fish to serve raw can be scary. Still, several local markets offer sushi-grade…
I thought I was done for when the Bay Wolf went down,” says Rich Salturelli, remembering his Cherry Creek hot spot. “I got a divorce, and I gave the restaurant to her, and then she ran it into the ground. Me and my brother, Thom, who has the Cricket on…
Although in its infancy, the Manhattan Grill has already gained a reputation as a major power-lunch and -dinner spot (see review, this issue). Still, it has a long way to go before it tops another Rich Salturelli venture, CityGrille, as one of the town’s best spots for deal-making and bread-breaking…
Like so many other great culinary creations — cheese, jerky, prosciutto, pickles — sushi was invented as a way of preserving food. In early Japan, slices of raw fish were sandwiched between layers of heavily salted rice, with a stone then placed on top. Months later, the rice/fishwich was ready…
What makes a great sushi bar? The formula is more complex than it used to be, back in the day when fresh fish was a rarity in these parts and people were happy simply to have access to sushi. But today the area is so swimming in sushi joints that…
