The party of eight at the next table barely noticed their food. “If we close”…”net profits”…”by next Tuesday”…”budget crunch”…The phrases floated over us like corporate Muzak. I watched as plate after plate was set down before the three women (all of whom were wearing red) and five men (all of…
Get ’em while they’re hot: Brunch at Hot Cakes, a breakfast/lunch cafe at 1400 East 18th Avenue, is sure to get you going–especially if you ask for wiseass waitperson Tracy Porter. Noticing that I am rather pregnant, Porter proceeded to turn my husband’s face twenty shades of red by asking…
Italian restaurants are popping up like wild oregano, making them a serious contender in the oversaturation competition now led by Mexican and Chinese. Most of these are red-sauce joints doing the old spaghetti/Chianti routine; few feature the kind of cooking that makes Italy a true gastronomic destination. Or, as Joe…
Graze anatomy: I stopped by Cliff Young’s on a recent Monday to sample its popular, free happy-hour fare only to find that the restaurant has eliminated any late-afternoon grazing offerings until the end of the summer. “It’s just not cost-effective,” says bar manager Shelley Sale. “With so many places that…
In Wall Street, the characters played by Charlie Sheen and Darryl Hannah spend at least four minutes of screen time making an elaborate meal of sushi and pasta and a bunch of other things requiring expensive kitchen appliances that I’m sure they didn’t have to clean. (In real time, the…
French toast: What a difference a week (and a change of scenery) makes. Brunch at Le Central, 112 East Eighth Avenue, was a world away from the previous Sunday’s meal at Firefly Cafe. I ordered the same dish–eggs Benedict–and paid 45 cents less ($4.95) than at Firefly, but this time…
When a man sets off to build an empire, he usually travels through uncharted territory, conquering exotic foreign lands. But Johnny Hsu stuck with the tried and true, never straying from familiar fare when he opened a mammoth near-copy of his Imperial restaurant ten miles to the southeast. “I wanted…
Fly trap: Sunday brunch at the Firefly Cafe, 5410 East Colfax, left me baffled as to why the place always looks so jammed–as indeed it was during our Mother’s Day visit. I expect crowds on that day, but a place that’s been in business for over a decade should be…
Denver’s spring weather has me on a dietary seesaw: One day I’m outside firing up the grill, and the next I’m craving whatever requires enough oven time to heat up the house. It was during the recent cold wave that we got a hankering for the quintessential belly comforter: a…
It won’t fly: While waiting for a noteworthy chicken-fried steak at the Cherokee Bar and Grill last week, I had the good fortune to eavesdrop on some particularly interesting conversations. On one side of the room sat a large group from the Denver Aviation Commission discussing, among millions of other…
A restaurant claiming to serve Mediterranean food is in a good position–the menu possibilities are endless when you stake out a territory including such culinary strongholds as France, Italy, North Africa, Spain, Greece and Turkey. Then again, sometimes it’s better to stick with what you know best, which could explain…
A recent trip to Boulder provided plenty of food for thought. At Two Bitts Bistro on Baseline Road, we became concerned that the kitchen was baking brownies just for us, so slow was service on two desserts well after the lunch rush had ended. Were they worth the wait? You…
During the Vietnam War, one of the best-known roads in Saigon was Pasteur Street, a bustling avenue of commerce that housed a restaurant fairly famous in its own right–Pho Pasteur, a place frequented by locals who were not averse to visits from American soldiers, my father included, who’d fill up…
Calling all restaurateur wannabes: Thornton is looking for a few good eateries to serve its rapidly expanding population. “In 1990 we had around 55,000 residents in Thornton,” says Dave Bata, the city’s economic-development specialist. “Now we’re at well over 60,000.” An even more impressive Bata statistic: The average annual income…
In one of the most ramshackle dining rooms in one of the most rundown buildings in one of the worst neighborhoods in town, you’ll find the heart and soul of Denver’s restaurant scene. But Ethel Allen–Miss Ethel to those who’ve already discovered Ethel’s House of Soul–doesn’t mind the Five Points…
Scene and heard: I didn’t get to meet him, but at least Paul Bocuse had the good sense to dine at La Coupole, one of my favorite restaurants, immediately upon arriving in Denver. What did he eat? Normandy veal with a creamy mushroom sauce. What did he say? That he…
When the test kitchen’s been fired up since 1000 B.C., it’s hard to improve on old family recipes. Although some of the ingredients–lemons, honey, eggplant, phyllo–popularly associated with Greek food didn’t come along until many years and several foreign rulers later, the ancient Greeks were tending olive trees and grapevines…
Although it’s certainly not fair for a critic to review a restaurant after only two weeks of operation, there’s no law against dropping in for a bite, then writing about the place. And I just couldn’t help myself after reading an advertisement for The International, an intriguing venture that calls…
The name varies–sub, submarine, hoagie, grinder, poor boy, hero, torpedo, cosmo–but one rule remains constant: This is a sandwich that should equal more than the sum of its parts. Too often, though, the sub (apparently the preferred title in Denver) is much less–a sad pile of limp deli meats, wilted…
The battle for the bottle: Denver’s chapter of the Beer Drinkers of America met with state representatives Mike Salaz and Alice Nichol at a recent rally to protest ongoing attempts to raise beer taxes. “We’re hearing a lot of indecision from Colorado lawmakers on this issue,” says John Fajardo, BDA’s…
Given the miserable survival rate of new restaurants, Willie Nelson could have sung a different tune: “Mamas, Don’t Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Restaurateurs.” Better the babies should grow up to be businessmen who buy a key piece of real estate and fill it with kitschy, pricey eateries…
End of an era: If, like me, you’ve never had the pleasure of participating in a Hotluck, well, hots of luck. Private investigator Scott Keating started the Hotluck ten years ago as a way of bringing together a diverse group of people–around a hundred each party, including such notables as…
