On the Hudson: The building at 6115 South Santa Fe Drive that once housed the North Woods Inn (see review above) has always been part of the Hudson estate, which was owned by the late Evelyn King and Colonel Hudson. Decades ago, the Colonel raised horses while his wife ran…
One of the last places you’d expect to find a former news director for Lewis and Floorwax is running a Cajun restaurant, but here’s Marilyn LeBlanc at the helm of Cafe Evangeline, named after the Longfellow poem about a betrothed couple separated after they were forced out of Acadia in…
Chickening out: Fans–and there seem to be many of them–of the former Foucher’s Cajun Creole, which kept things cooking on 17th Avenue for twelve years, will be delighted to hear that the restaurant may reappear. “I’m trying to get my dad to move back out here and start it up,”…
More Moroccan: Mataam Fez, at 4609 East Colfax Avenue, was the first Moroccan eatery to turn Denverites on to the joys of sitting on the floor and eating intensely spiced food with their fingers. The restaurant has survived over two decades, not only spawning Fezes in Boulder, Colorado Springs and…
Several months after my second daughter was born, I thought it would be a great idea to host a dinner party, since I was feeling kind of stir-crazy and lonely and hadn’t seen many of my friends for months. As my husband dislikes big groups–we seem to have some unresolved…
What’s your beef?: Denver has its high-end steakhouses, most notably Morton’s of Chicago (1710 Wynkoop Street), The Palm (1201 16th Street), Ruth’s Chris (1445 Market Street), Del Frisco’s (8100 East Orchard Road, Greenwood Village) and Brooks (6538 South Yosemite Circle, Englewood). And it has your low-end steakhouses, such as Trail…
The National Western Stock Show had its usual effect on me. I bought a pair of cowboy boots for myself and a cowboy hat for my daughter. I spent a few days dreaming of rippling-muscled steer rasslers–where have all the cowboys gone?–and deftly sidestepped questions from my kids about when…
Spice world: Unless you’re still making Alice B. Toklas’s brownies, saffron is the most expensive ingredient you can get in this country. (A certain fish eyeball that’s supposed to increase brain waves has fetched a few thousand in Japan, and beluga caviar that’s just been scraped out of the fish’s…
The next time you feel like complaining about how much you hate your job, consider this: In La Mancha, Spain, hundreds of people spend their eight hours a day hunched over, painstakingly plucking stigmas from Crocus sativus flowers one teeny, precious thread at a time. It takes about two weeks…
No matter how good a meal is, it’s hard to enjoy it when you’re eating in your overcoat. During a recent dinner at India Palace, the modest dining room was so chilly that my frozen fingers could barely hold on to a fork. Although it was sixteen degrees out that…
Say cheese: Because of Indian cooking’s vegetarian focus–not to mention India’s reverence for cows–dairy products are a big part of the Indian diet, with yogurt, homemade cheese and the clarified butter ghee supplying a major portion of protein. The cheese chenna, made from boiled, curdled milk, and the pressed version,…
When the Mongolian hordes–you know, those guys led by Genghis and Kublai and Chaka and all those other Khans–took a break from a hard day’s fight, they liked to relax over a steaming helmetful of on-the-roadkill stew. This haphazard cuisine would not seem the stuff that restaurant dynasties are made…
Fit to be stir-fried: Although your kitchen isn’t equipped with the sort of young, entertaining grillers who keep things cooking at BD’s Mongolian Barbeque (reviewed above), it has other stir-fry advantages. You can easily duplicate the ingredients offered at BD’s, since they’re your basic cut vegetables, sliced meats and chopped…
Our daily bread: Although I haven’t seen capirotada on any menus in town besides La Loma’s (see review above), this Lenten bread pudding has been around at least since seventh-century prophet Mohammed, according to Western food historian Sam Arnold, who owns The Fort restaurant in Morrison. In his book Eating…
It’s taken five years and hundreds of meals, but I think I’m finally starting to understand Denver’s obsession with Mexican food. When it’s good, it can be very, very good (although when it’s bad, it’s horrid)–and it doesn’t get any better than at La Loma. But then, this restaurant has…
In 1998, the face of Denver dining changed from the wizened old visage of the familiar to the crazed, cash-hungry smirk of the young upstarts. While most of the restaurants the town lost were newer models, few of the disappearances came from links in chains. Although many old-timers are still…
Walking into Paul’s Creekside Grill at the Inn at Silver Creek was a little like opening a gift wrapped in the funny pages and tied with a shoelace. The package was cute, but I didn’t have high hopes for what might be inside. But despite the strange setup, Paul’s is…
Soup’s on: There may not be much snow up in them thar hills, but things are still cookin’ at Silver Creek Ski Resort–and they’ll continue to as long as Seth Daugherty is in the kitchen at Paul’s Creekside Grill (see review above). Daugherty’s dishes are so delicious that it was…
A century ago, Mattie Silks was Denver’s most notorious madam. And so I approached my first meal at the restaurant that occupies her expensively refurbished Victorian brothel, Mattie’s House of Mirrors, with some trepidation. Like its namesake, was this establishment out to screw us? After all, in keeping with Silks’s…
Noodlin’ around: One indicator of an excellent chef is his ability to take simple ingredients and combine them in a way that makes the most of their attributes. At Mattie’s House of Mirrors (see review above), one of the most flavorful and well-proportioned dishes is the capellini with four tomatoes,…
Someone’s in the kitchen with Dinah: The food served on the Great Northern Railway was very different from the food served at its namesake in Denver, the Great Northern Tavern (see review above). The railroad received so many requests for its recipes that it put out a thirty-page booklet called…
Have a successful eatery? Hey, open another one. No matter that you can’t clone the location, the chef or the waitstaff, much less yourself. If your concept works in one place, it’s bound to work everywhere, right? Wrong. Very wrong. The original Great Northern Tavern is in Keystone, where residents…
