Restaurants

LoHi Mexican Restaurant Among The Best in North America

"It’s a reminder that even in a time when life in this country can be especially hard for immigrants, anything is possible."
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Alma Fonda Fina's food is inspired by Mexican home-style cooking.

Shawn Campbell

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After working for other people his entire career, chef Johnny Curiel struck out on his own in 2023, debuting his first restaurant, Alma Fonda Fina, in December that year. “For me, it’s been a lifetime in the making to be able to do something like what we’re doing at Alma,” Curiel told Westword at the time. And that lifetime of work has paid off big time. The latest accolade: landing at number 45 in this year’s list of North America’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Alma Fonda Fina, which Curiel describes as “you being at my kitchen table and me sharing my mom’s recipes with you. No gas, all electric, no hoods, small space,” earned a Michelin star less than a year after opening. Curiel could have used that opportunity to hike up prices at Alma Fonda Fina, or become a high-end tasting menu spot like the state’s other Michelin-starred eating. But instead, he and his wife and business partner, Kasie, promised to stay true to their vision — which is exactly what they’ve done.

The Curiels now operate four eateries in the metro area, including Cozobi Fonda Fina in Boulder, Mezcaleria Alma in LoHi, and Alteño in Cherry Creek. When Michelin released the 2025 edition of its Colorado guide earlier this month, every single one of Curiel’s spots was included (Cozobi landed on the Bib Gourmand list, Alteño earned recommended status, and the OG Alma retained its star while Mezcaleria Alma nabbed its first).

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The small but mighty Alma Fonda Fina.

Shawn Campbell

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This latest honor for Alma Fonda Fina places it among restaurant industry giants such as Chicago’s Smyth, New York’s Le Bernadin and this year’s number one restaurant in North America, Atomix in New York City.

“Never in my wildest dreams did I think that opening my first solo restaurant — a tiny 36-seat, 933 square foot space without a hood — would one day land us among the greats on this list,” Curiel shared in an Instagram post announcing the news. “When I read through the names, I see the very people I grew up admiring, chefs whose work shaped the way I thought about food. To now be mentioned alongside them feels surreal. It’s also a reminder that even in a time when life in this country can be especially hard for immigrants, anything is possible. If you put your heart into it, you can create something that matters.”

This list’s description of Alma Fonda Fina reads, “Chef Johnny Curiel opened this highly polished yet deeply personal showcase of contemporary Mexican cuisine in Colorado to immediate acclaim. The menu is inspired by his childhood in Guadalajara, Mexico, with diners treated to dishes like agave-roasted sweet potato with broken salsa macha and fennel-whipped requesón (akin to ricotta) or halibut in watercress mole verde with pistachio salsa and pickled white onions.”

Pro tip: While Alma Fonda Fina may be one of the toughest reservations to get in town right now, it can often take walk-ins if you show up early.

Check out the full list to see what other restaurants were named the best in North America this year.

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