Our Weekly Bread: Larimer Hot House

The sandwich: ‘Atsa Turkey Meatball
What’s on it: Sage and cranberry turkey meatballs, melted provolone and marinara sauce on a roll.
Where to get it: Larimer Hot House (2810 Larimer Street, 303-292-3008)
How much: $7 for the sandwich; $10 for a meal deal

A couple of years ago, I started my quest for the perfect meatball recipe. The idea was to make a meatball that was as good as what I’d eaten at any number of Italian joints in any number of cities across the United States.

My quest was short-lived, however. After the second recipe left me with dried-out meatballs over-filled with fennel, I gave up. The meatball seems so easy, so simple, but it is not, and I envy and admire anyone who can make a good meatball.

The Larimer Hot House makes a good meatball. It’s not a typical meatball, that’s for sure. Stuffed with small cranberries and sage, it’s a turkey meatball that won’t be to everyone’s liking because it’s far from traditional.

But the meatballs that filled my sandwich were big and juicy and stayed together — three requirements of a good meatball in my book. And they had tons of flavor that more than stood up both melted provolone and a side of marinara sauce.

In the weeks since it opened, the Hot House has become famous in the neighborhood for its $3, one-pound breakfast burritos, but it also has a super sandwich menu with seven unusual creations, as well as a couple of hearty soups.

The sandwiches run $7, but for $10, you can get some awesome homemade potato chips (in three flavors), a pickle, a drink and a Rice Krispyish treat made from a cereal that isn’t Rice Krispies. And the cool tables and smiling service are free.

I may never find the perfect meatball recipe, but I’m glad I was tipped to the Larimer Hot House.

For previous sandwiches, see the Our Weekly Bread archive.