The Best Bites Our Food Editor Had in February

The food scene was buzzing with news last month, from the closures of more favorites like Osaka Ramen and Zoe Ma Ma to the hotly debated tip credit bill that’s now on pause at the Colorado Legislature. But I still managed to sneak in some great meals at places old and new.

Kelly and Erika Whitaker have built a nationally acclaimed restaurant group, Id Est Hospitality, for which they were named Outstanding Restaurateur at last year’s James Beard Awards. While their Michelin-starred tasting menu restaurants in Denver, Bruto and the Wolf’s Tailor, have rightfully garnered a lot of praise, it was their OG Boulder spot that stood out last month. Basta opened fifteen years ago and if it’s been a while since you visited, it’s time to return.

The team cooks pretty much everything in one wood-fired oven, including the star: the pizza, which arrives with a bubbly charred crust that’s got a chewy bite. Don’t skip the clam pie, which remains among the best pizzas in the metro area and is perfect when paired with Basta’s punchy Caesar salad and its luscious lasagna.

We’ve been covering the challenges many bars and restaurants on Colfax are facing amid the ongoing BRT construction project. If you want to show your support for the places you love along this storied stretch, now is the time to visit – often. I recently did just that with a group of friends when we kicked off our Colfax crawl at Champagne Tiger, which opened in the former home of Tom’s Diner last August.

I’d seen the remodel of the classic Googie-style building when Tom’s relaunched in 2022, but it was great to experience this latest iteration. The booths and bar seats were filled, and there was plenty of energy as the staff started slinging drinks expertly. Obviously, any good bar crawl requires a solid meal to start off – you should not drink your way down Colfax on an empty stomach!

Champagne Tiger’s mortadella melt was exactly what the occasion called for – just greasy enough, with plenty of melted gruyere and tangy mustard to cut the richness. It comes with a side salad (reminiscent of the one at Olive Garden, in a great way) or your choice of fries – classic, thick-cut, waffle or tots.

Last month, contributor Helen Xu did a deep dive into the city’s growing banh mi scene. We shot the cover picture at Conu’s Corner, which doubles as a convenience store. But don’t let the shelves filled with household supplies fool you – some of the tastiest Vietnamese food in town is coming out of this kitchen, which owner Thuc-Nhu “Nhu” Hoang runs with care. The banh mi on bread baked in-house is sure to satisfy, but don’t skip options like the pho and rice or noodle bowls. Pair your entree with Hoang’s favorite drink, a mix of classic Thai iced tea and Thai green tea.

Mercantile, a ten-year-old Union Station restaurant, recently reopened after closing for nearly two months for a refresh. The new menu from founder Alex Seidel and executive chef Alex Grenier pays homage to local ingredients and the flavors of the season. Unsurprisingly, the veggies on offer in the “Earth” section of the dinner menu are treated smartly, particularly the wedge of charred cabbage. It arrives on a bed of creamy tahini and gets a big flavor boost from the addition of thinly sliced pears and a generous amount of housemade chile crisp.

I’m just happy that the reign of Brussels sprouts has waned at long last, and the rise of cabbage continues.

I have been on a crab cheese wonton kick lately, and recently found one that stands out from the rest. I visited Pho Peoria on a snowy night and was immediately impressed by its crab cheese wontons, bursting with filling and slightly charred on top. There’s no shortage of crab here, and the addition of scallions to the cream cheese mix offered a bit of freshness. The cinnamon-heavy pho broth was a pleasant treat, too, as were crispy fried egg rolls.

I drive down Colorado Boulevard a lot and am always looking for new-to-me places – which is why I was surprised to find that a strip-mall ice cream shop I only recently noticed was celebrating its fifth anniversary in February. MyKings opened on March 1, 2020 – just two weeks before the pandemic shut down indoor dining. But owner Le’Day Grant kept the business going by pivoting to catering, and has continued to serve up sweet treats and smiles while also giving back to the community and working with local schools.

When I stopped by last month to snap some photos, a group of high school kids was visiting, and Grant welcomed each one warmly as her grandmother helped with orders. This is exactly the kind of place we should all be supporting – a family business run with kindness and joy. Plus, the ice cream is fantastic, and there are tons of mix-ins and toppings to customize whatever you’re craving.

I opted for the Denver Dessert Nachos with waffle cone “chips,” Fruity Pebbles, Blue Moon ice cream and marshmallow sauce; I’m planning to go back soon for the Park Hill Banana Pudding version.