The Nine Best Bites We Had in October

In September, I spent a lot of time visiting places that opened while I was on medical leave — and was happy to find some truly spectacular bites along the way. At the top of your list should be the blue cheese tart at Rougarou, the fried chicken at Pig & Tiger, and the brioche rolls with bear-shaped butter at BearLeek.

Last month, my mission to catch up on new hot spots continued at Riot BBQ, where I was happy to find pitmaster Patrick Klaiber and chef Manny Barella settling in very, very nicely at the former AJ’s Pit Bar-B-Q. Their take on smoked meats is a combination of classic Texas barbecue and traditional flavors from Northern Mexico. This isn’t Tex Mex — instead, you’ll find thin al pastor ribs, brisket tacos on bison tallow tortillas, esquites-topped cornbread and coleslaw with salsa matcha dressing. It’s open every day but Tuesday from 11 a.m. to sell-out, so show up early for the best selection.

Since Michelin launched its first Colorado guide in 2023, more and more tasting menu-style spots have opened up in Denver — and one of the best is located inside a bagel shop. In April, Miles Odell launched the Counter at Odell’s, a kaiseki-inspired evening concept that operates out of his Highland bagel shop. Intimate but lively, the sixteen-course meal is perfectly paced and full of fun surprises, from the latke topped with otoro and caviar to start, to the many nigiri courses, to the Okinawan sweet potato and yuzu meringue that ended the meal.

Up next for Odell: opening Florence Supper Club, an Italian eatery that is expected to debut in West Wash Park by the end of the year.

Orrapan Botthaisong, the owner of La Mai Thai near Sloan’s Lake, opened the more upscale Som Dee Kitchen & Bar in Uptown last December, and it impressed from the start. Nearly a year in, it’s only gotten better. On a recent visit, the massaman curry served with a side of flaky roti was a favorite, but so was an appetizer of oh-so-crispy calamari with a sweet tamarind sauce. While many of the dishes on offer are familiar staples at Thai eateries in the U.S., Botthaisong’s also highlights lesser-known dishes in order to expand diners’ palates — so look for specials and don’t be afraid to try something you’ve never heard of. Coming soon to the menu: a must-try pineapple curry with duck.

In August, husband-and-wife team Long Nguyen and Shauna Seamen opened Saigon Noodle Club at Edgewater Public Market. The duo formerly operated popular food truck Pho King Rapidos, and this new concept is a hit, too. The menu’s focus is on noodle bowls and spring rolls, with both signature and build-your-own options. The rolls were hefty and stuffed with fresh veggies and flavorful meat, and half the fun is trying the various dipping sauces. Spicy salt and pepper tofu also hit the spot, as did the Salty Lemon Pop, a fizzy beverage made with preserved lemons. New to the menu is a pho/posole mash-up dubbed the Pho-Zole.

Michelle “Meesh” McGlone opened her Juicy Lucy-centric burger bar dubbed Lucy’s on Tennyson Street in 2021. Since then, it’s continued to evolve to fit the needs and tastes of the neighborhood, and the results are quite delicious. Now, you can find options like Fancy Fries topped with truffle aioli and caviar, breakfast sandwiches available all day, and raw oysters on Shuck Me Up Saturdays. Blue cheese lovers, though, should visit ASAP for the Blucy, a beef patty stuffed with the funky fromage. Don’t forget the basic Juicy Lucy rules — proceed with caution and let the river of cheese cool a bit before going in for bite two — and be sure to add a side of buffalo sauce if you like a little heat.

While the new fried chicken renditions at Pig & Tiger and BearLeek are worth checking out, it’s hard to beat a plate of classic, Southern-style fried chicken. Some of my favorite places in town for a fix include Blazing Chicken Shack II in Northeast Park Hill; the new Mama Jo’s on East Colfax, which does bone-in fried chicken on Fridays and has some of the best collards in the game; and Welton Street Cafe. This family-owned Five Points restaurant was on pause for nearly three years as it worked on moving into a new location in the neighborhood. That space opened a year ago, and the fried chicken at Welton Street Cafe 2.0 is as as good as ever. Plus, you can now pair it with a boozy beverage; unlike the OG location, this one has a full bar.

You can’t talk about farm-to-table dining in Denver without mentioning one of the pioneers, Potager. Now nearly three decades old, it remains a buzzy spot where the kitchen team consistently makes the most of locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. In October, I celebrated my birthday during a meal that included a pumpkin spice fontina soufflé, a Caesar-inspired sunchoke dish, potato and corn flatbread, lamb shepherd’s pie and the best pierogi I’ve had at a restaurant in a long time. The menu here changes often, and daily specials are always worth considering. If it’s been a while — or you’ve never been to Potager, this is your sign. (FYI, the restaurant is closed today for a very special occasion; it’s the sixth birthday of owners Paul and Eileen Warthen’s son, Gardy, who’s basically an honorary staffer.)

One of my favorite places to take a group is Woody’s Wings & Things, a no-frills restaurant in Westminster that isn’t really a wing joint — though it does serve wings, along with many, many other things. Its menu is an actual binder with pages and pages of dishes from Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, China and Laos. A group that likes to share is essential here, as a full spread is the way to go. Two items I never skip: the duck larb and the whole fried fish with lime and tamarind sauce.

A great bagel is often not a great vessel for sandwiches, but Good Bread, the bakery at Colfax and Madison Street, from the same owners as at Lula Rose General Store across the street, has managed to create just that. The bagels here are supremely chewy but with enough bite to enjoy one with just cream cheese (or, as I prefer, a little butter and cream cheese), but they work equally well loaded up as a breakfast sandwich or, as I recently enjoyed, a stellar BLT. This place does have really good bread, too, so I usually pick up a baguette or two as well, and the daily pastries are always tempting.