Most of the red-sauce joints that once proliferated in northwest Denver have dried up, but Gaetano’s is now more than seventy years old. Of course, it’s gone through some changes over the decades after being founded by the Smaldone mob family, who installed bulletproof glass in the front door and ran illegal poker games in the basement. Gaetano’s is now run by Ron Robinson as a true neighborhood joint, one flavored by the traditions of the past but still very much ready to go another seventy years as a Denver landmark.